Dartgame

I've got a pair of new black lap belts and reinforcing mount plates that I'm not going to use. message me if interested.

I tried Roberts, AB and Steele. The best fit were from Steele, but still not great. The others simply would not have sealed well at all. Crap shoot. Keep your receipts if you need to return them.

What is making you decide to do this. Performance issues ? Fuel problems ?

Maybe the coil is bad and that caused the pertronix failure ?

Could be the center section was swapped at some point....always a smart idea to check the bearing numbers and confirm as you did ! Interesting the axle had so much sludge inside. I suppose that had to do with the mineral type lube originally used in these things.

Sorry I have no idea. Logically speaking if it was in the car and fit - it should be original...I know, not much help...Very nice job sandblasting !

Hi Tim - I have one of the "380" cams and was wondering if you have a cam intake degree centerline specification for it. I got in the habit of checking centerlines on any engine build I do many years ago. Eventually I intend to install this cam in a 230 which will be hot rodded.

Chris - One recommendation - assuming you plan on rebuilding the trans. Before removing it from the car, set the parking brake, and remove the large nut from the end of the trans output shaft. Then go forward with the trans removal. It will be easier to do this with the brake holding the trans drum than on the floor with nothing to hold the end of the output.

Transmission, bell housing, driveline stuff like the rear axle, and maybe some of the suspension, brake parts like the drums etc., wheels. Probably more than I am aware.

Cool car. Do you plan on restoring it ? I'd keep the overdrive, very nice option. I cant see any reason why the 277 should have crank issues, but I'm no expert on this vintage V8. A poly 318 might be a drop in assuming the motor mounts are the same....

Well - to really find out what you have, measure the CC's (using a buret) in the head and add the compressed thickness of the head gasket to get your head's combustion chamber volume. Don't forget to add in volume from the cylinder assuming the pistons might be below deck at TDC. Once you know these pieces of info you can calculate your CR, and figure out how much to cut. I dont think you have to be as concerned about valve to head clearance as it's not as big a problem as with an over head valve engine where piston to valve clearance is an issue. Most of these flat heads are around 7:1, with the later engines having increased CR of around 8:1. Increasing the CR will increase the HP and torque as you know.

Sounds like a failing throw out bearing. Check the clutch fork for the specified free play, before doing anything more. It may just be out of adjustment. Assuming the worst. When you get the trans out, check its shift function, if it seems okay then leave it. If not, a rebuild might be in order. If you've never rebuilt a manual trans, these three speeds are about as simple as it gets. You'll need a rebuild kit including bearings synchro and other gaskets as well.

My favorite guitarist....

I used an outfit called northwest transmission parts located in Winchester Ohio for rebuild parts...

Quote from Jimi Hendrix - cool !

That would help, but with one change, crank the engine to suck fresh air into the manifold and cylinders. My assumption is you have a bad condensor - I've used the junk available in the aftermarket and had a failure similar to what you are describing. Bad coil will do similar things too.

Maybe we can enlist Dr Sheldon Cooper (big bang theory) to figure out an equation - LOL. Could not resist a little humor injection...

It should slide off - I recall there might be a split retainer ring to hold it on the pinion shaft. good thing you found that nasty bearing !

NGK plugs....champs are the worst.

If you have a volt ohm meter, start tracing your wires and see if you have open or high resistance in the wiring starting from the steering wheel out to the horn relay and then from the relay to the horns themselves. Could be bad wiring or bad relay. This assumes that when you say the horns work off a battery they are clear and sound "right". I rewired my car so I am not familiar with the black piece in your picture, sorry.

As others have suggested do your cleaning and then be sure to apply some sort of paint you like. Rustoleum is effective especially for a garage kept car. You will get a nicer finish if you spray paint, but its messy with the overspray. Brush enamel would be my choice.

Lepic - It would depend on how you made the entire system. The main goal is to reduce back pressure to improve performance. For a single exhaust system, go to the largest size pipe that is practical, as determined by the outlet of the exhaust manifold. Probably 2 1/4 inch, use the same sized inlet and outlet muffler of your choosing and continue 2 1/4 all the way back. Should be quiet and at the same time lower back pressure if you use a stock v8 style muffler.

I replaced my rear springs as well, car has a mild rake to it, not outrageous. I am thinking to install lowering blocks or remove one leaf from the rear springs to make it level.

I have not changed the shock location and used the aerostar springs. I have been happy with the ride quality. I cut 2/3 of a coil out of each to lower it a little.

I'd go with a roller hydraulic LA 318 or 360. Plenty of them around, cheaper than a big block and they run great.