Dartgame
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Everything posted by Dartgame
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To avoid installing a new or reconditioned fuel tank, my cars PO used an antifreeze bottle strapped in front of the radiator with a rubber hose stuffed thru the cap of the bottle. ugh. No big deal to fix, but not real safe.. and not much range !
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AAJ Rear brakes on a Forward Look car, who's done it?
Dartgame replied to samdjr74's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I did the AAJ rear discs on my 52. Pretty straight forward install, they work fine. Unfortunately my axle is tweaked and I will be installing a late model to replace the original. Eventually I will sell my set up from the 52 if you are interested. The only thing that would be different is the DOM spacer length for your application. adapter plate rotors, calipers hoses etc are the same. -
You might look at timing as well. A retarded timed engine will run hot. Are the valves lashed correctly ? I might try rebuilding the other carb to see if that changes anything.
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Timing without vacuum advance should be 0 degrees per manual, but I run mine at about 7 degree before TDC, and it runs well.
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Hi Robert - This is excellent information, thank you so much! It looks like you sandwiched the garage door seal to the outside against the fender and used another seal profile to the inside against the body opening correct ? Can you comment about what type seal that was, it looks like its shaped like an L of sorts ?
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Hi Robert - Thanks - I look forward to seeing what you made for those pillar seals. I too have searched high and low and found nothing in the aftermarket. Fortunately the Metal cores from the old seals are in excellent condition, but unfortunately the rubber was cooked. By garage door seal, I assume you mean the rubber that is flat but has a lip that is angled away from the flat portion that would attach to the bottom of say a wooden garage door...I'll start looking at this to see what is available.
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Hi Robert KB - Beautiful job. Any changes to the drivetrain suspension or brakes ? When I started looking for Business coupe; I found a Canadian Dodge bus coupe same as yours but kept looking, major rust issues and price was not tenable - I eventually found my 52 ply bus coupe. I really like the dodge grill on the plymouth body, better than the plymouth grill, but the Dodge I found was too far gone for my taste. I am putting the 52 back together slowly, and am struggling with what to do for the door hinge pillar door seals. Can you share how you handled this on your car ?
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I had at one time looked at a 52 plymouth, actually a so called plodge (Candian plymouth), that had the long block motor in it. Apparently chrysler used the small displacement big block 6's in Canadian cars vs the small block engines of similar size. I'd guess that is what you are dealing with here.
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DR - sorry no kit number. You need a borg and beck 10 inch clutch and matching disc for an early 50's chrysler product, that's all I can tell you....
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Probably late to the discussion, but I strongly recommend the best gasket neoprene - My car had the bolt on external rope seal in it and two drain holes (assume that's right not really sure why they are there) in the main cap. I dropped the main cap cleaned it thoroughly and I mean spotlessly, jb welded the two holes shut and loosened the other main caps and installed the upper and lower in the motor. Unbelieveable result - it has not leaked a drop since.
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It was simple on my 52 ply...The flywheel is drilled for both 9 1/4 and 10 inch clutches. I installed a 10 inch borg and beck on my car. It had a very worn out auburn 9 1/4.
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Well, the tip has obviously been mushed. Take a look a the center hole and see if you can match up a drill to open it. It would be better to go smaller than larger. But what the drill size is - I don’t know. As to the fitment in the block, I’d try to bell the end so you get a nice snug fit. I would also examine the oiler position relative to the timing chain. Maybe it hits it and that’s how it was damaged.
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What about the tail pipe and muffler ?
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Ouch...
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Eneto - I guess not many folks have had as severe an issue as you with the hinges. Fortunately mine needed no service other than lube. Sounds like you are making progress - it might be a good idea to seek a machinist to figure out the set up and installation of the bushing and pins.
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If the wick is missing, find some thick felt and make one. Good to know Mac still has the right grease. It’s all but unknown in most parts stores these days.
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What Disc brake conversion to use on a 53 coronet
Dartgame replied to martin53's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I suspect it still has a 3.55 most listings I’ve found indicate this. Some clues to check - there is usually a small tag on one of the axle differential cover bolts that says what the gear is. If it has been serviced that tag may be gone. Some other options - throw two same size tires on the axle mark one tire and roll the axle in a straight line and count how many times the pinion companion flange rotates for one full rotation of a tire. Important to roll it straight or the differential will get involved and fool you. You could also drop the diff cover and rotate the ring gear, on the edge of it is the ratio, messy but sure fire. -
For distributor cams I have a tube of dist cam grease - Notsure where your would find that today - had it for years...anyway a very thin film is what your supposed to apply to the cam.
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I found mine on rock auto - but would also consider rebuilding one myself. Also you could consider an electric pump - both in 6 volt and 12 volt.
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How Much Should I Pay For A Decent Torque Wrench
Dartgame replied to Bingster's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Beam types would be the most reliable. I have both types: click and beam in craftsman. I also bought a cheap o beam type years ago that has the socket head on both sides of the business end of the wrench, so if you are torquing something upside down you can read the scale as well - pretty handy... I still use the click and then recheck with the beam on critical items. For high torques my buddy has a big snap on wrench I’ll borrow on the rare occasion. Important to reset the click type to zero when not being used. -
Don’t know about deleting a post. for hardware - (using my 52 as a reference so take this with a grain of salt), its all standard threads nothing exotic, mostly 1/4 -20, 5/16 etc. There are many sources for hardware similar to oem, from many restoration houses. Assuming you are after large captive washer bolts etc. Try restoration specialties, Mr. G’s, and believe it or not your local hardware store sells a lot of SAE type hardware too, at least mine does.
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No - the truck engine I found had an oil pan that had a threaded boss on the side of the pan where the pipe for the dipstick threaded in. If it were me I’d use the baffled pan, better oil control and you cant tell what’s inside looking from the outside - right ?
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Soak em in solvent until all the grease dissolves. Any residual will get shoved through when installed and grease pumped through. The residual wont be dirty either.
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Truck engine uses threaded boss on the side of the pan.
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Look to master power brakes for more options on the master cylinder - I was able to buy a smaller bore cylinder for remote fill used with manual brakes from them.
