Dartgame

8 3/4 is a good option assuming you can find the right width, best candidate is a 1970 B body axle, nearly the same width as the 52. The center section castings used in these axles can be one of three types #741, 742 and 489 case (last three casting digits). Each has a different pinion gear shaft size or shape. 741 is small, 742 large and 489 tapered. All are overkill for a flat head powered car (nothing wrong with that)...each can be put in place of one another, and carriers interchange, but the gear sets do not and are specific to the case number. Hope this helps a little when seeking parts.

I looked at an explorer rear axle, but reconsidered after looking at the pinion companion flange (uses a 6 or 8 bolt flat disk arrangement). Decided to buy a late model jeep cherokee (not a grand cherokee) from a 2001 model which uses a spicer type companion flange (standard old style u joint). Almost all of them are 3.55:1 and are slightly (1 inch or so) narrower than the stock axle, its an 8 1/4" ring gear chrysler axle. These cherokees were all the same for a lot of years 90's to 2000's using that axle. The later models use a higher axle spline count (stronger) than the earlier ones something like 2000 and down. Measure from wheel mounting to wheel mounting to get accurate measurement for comparison. I have not installed it yet. You will need to buy spring perches and weld them on, because the jeep perches are on top of the axle vs below which our cars use. Look at early 50's chevys for the correct width perches.

Hi Oil Soup - thanks for the link. Looks like a good outfit. Will have to investigate -

Thats a nice set up on the filter. I may go that way - thanks for posting the write up.

probably a wheel bearing front or rear...

Been searching around for a firewall sound deadening pad for the 52 - Outfit called california Pontiac restoration appears to be reselling or making them, ebay lists them, pricey. Anybody use one of their products ?

I used rogers master cyl. brake adapter bracket which sits under the floor - manual brakes. I used a remote tandem master cyl from master power brakes. Works fine. I'm using the trans mounted parking brake. No machining needed, just some butchering with a cut off wheel for the outer axle bearing retainer.

To avoid installing a new or reconditioned fuel tank, my cars PO used an antifreeze bottle strapped in front of the radiator with a rubber hose stuffed thru the cap of the bottle. ugh. No big deal to fix, but not real safe.. and not much range !

I did the AAJ rear discs on my 52. Pretty straight forward install, they work fine. Unfortunately my axle is tweaked and I will be installing a late model to replace the original. Eventually I will sell my set up from the 52 if you are interested. The only thing that would be different is the DOM spacer length for your application. adapter plate rotors, calipers hoses etc are the same.

You might look at timing as well. A retarded timed engine will run hot. Are the valves lashed correctly ? I might try rebuilding the other carb to see if that changes anything.

Timing without vacuum advance should be 0 degrees per manual, but I run mine at about 7 degree before TDC, and it runs well.

Hi Robert - This is excellent information, thank you so much! It looks like you sandwiched the garage door seal to the outside against the fender and used another seal profile to the inside against the body opening correct ? Can you comment about what type seal that was, it looks like its shaped like an L of sorts ?

Hi Robert - Thanks - I look forward to seeing what you made for those pillar seals. I too have searched high and low and found nothing in the aftermarket. Fortunately the Metal cores from the old seals are in excellent condition, but unfortunately the rubber was cooked. By garage door seal, I assume you mean the rubber that is flat but has a lip that is angled away from the flat portion that would attach to the bottom of say a wooden garage door...I'll start looking at this to see what is available.

Hi Robert KB - Beautiful job. Any changes to the drivetrain suspension or brakes ? When I started looking for Business coupe; I found a Canadian Dodge bus coupe same as yours but kept looking, major rust issues and price was not tenable - I eventually found my 52 ply bus coupe. I really like the dodge grill on the plymouth body, better than the plymouth grill, but the Dodge I found was too far gone for my taste. I am putting the 52 back together slowly, and am struggling with what to do for the door hinge pillar door seals. Can you share how you handled this on your car ?

I had at one time looked at a 52 plymouth, actually a so called plodge (Candian plymouth), that had the long block motor in it. Apparently chrysler used the small displacement big block 6's in Canadian cars vs the small block engines of similar size. I'd guess that is what you are dealing with here.

DR - sorry no kit number. You need a borg and beck 10 inch clutch and matching disc for an early 50's chrysler product, that's all I can tell you....

Probably late to the discussion, but I strongly recommend the best gasket neoprene - My car had the bolt on external rope seal in it and two drain holes (assume that's right not really sure why they are there) in the main cap. I dropped the main cap cleaned it thoroughly and I mean spotlessly, jb welded the two holes shut and loosened the other main caps and installed the upper and lower in the motor. Unbelieveable result - it has not leaked a drop since.

It was simple on my 52 ply...The flywheel is drilled for both 9 1/4 and 10 inch clutches. I installed a 10 inch borg and beck on my car. It had a very worn out auburn 9 1/4.

Well, the tip has obviously been mushed. Take a look a the center hole and see if you can match up a drill to open it. It would be better to go smaller than larger. But what the drill size is - I don’t know. As to the fitment in the block, I’d try to bell the end so you get a nice snug fit. I would also examine the oiler position relative to the timing chain. Maybe it hits it and that’s how it was damaged.

What about the tail pipe and muffler ?

Ouch...

Eneto - I guess not many folks have had as severe an issue as you with the hinges. Fortunately mine needed no service other than lube. Sounds like you are making progress - it might be a good idea to seek a machinist to figure out the set up and installation of the bushing and pins.

If the wick is missing, find some thick felt and make one. Good to know Mac still has the right grease. It’s all but unknown in most parts stores these days.

I suspect it still has a 3.55 most listings I’ve found indicate this. Some clues to check - there is usually a small tag on one of the axle differential cover bolts that says what the gear is. If it has been serviced that tag may be gone. Some other options - throw two same size tires on the axle mark one tire and roll the axle in a straight line and count how many times the pinion companion flange rotates for one full rotation of a tire. Important to roll it straight or the differential will get involved and fool you. You could also drop the diff cover and rotate the ring gear, on the edge of it is the ratio, messy but sure fire.

For distributor cams I have a tube of dist cam grease - Notsure where your would find that today - had it for years...anyway a very thin film is what your supposed to apply to the cam.