Dartgame

Search this site and you'll find a write up on it from member "Oldguy48" in september 2013.

Jeep cherokee front sway bar is the best option I've found. You can buy used or new (dorman makes them). Choose one from a Jeep XJ body or in the year range 1996 to 2001 or so, the body was the same for many more years than that. Internet search says they were made from 84 to 2001. I bought a new one and made the brackets for the lower control arm from steel U channel. Search this site and you'll find a write up on it.

Find another one. These three speeds were used in a ton of mopars with the flat head 6, so its a matter of finding a similar vintage unit with the same overall length. Maybe someone can give you a hollander interchange. I'd save the old one until you are sure no external parts are needed to swap on to the replacement. Stuff like shift arms, emergency brake etc.

I'm with Lazy K. Check the temperature using an accurate thermometer. I like infrared digital thermometers, cheapy tool stores have them for little $ and I found they are accurate. Nice to use, since you aim it and voila - a temp reading. Once you know the temp is accurate then look for suggestions as above. Air flow at idle is critical as pointed out by kencombs...

Try and see if there is a heavy truck transmission and clutch rebuilder in your area. They should be able to rebuild the disc and pressure plate.

I'd try and confirm if its the small rubber pieces that are leaking. It could be the split seal. Or it could be end rail gaskets (the C shaped part). Yes you can drop the pan in the car and remove the rear main bearing cap. If you decide to replace the split seal, loosen the rest of the main caps to allow a little wiggle room when removing and replacing the seals. You will need to replace the oil pan gasket as well. Your leak may actually be the end pieces on the pan. Most folks that dont have a service manual dont know to leave those end rails long, I dont recall the actual length but they are supposed to sit up on each side by an 1/8 inch or so on each end.

Use a mopar V8 1970's thermostat that fits the housing. I like the robertshaw style stats, much more reliable opening temperature and also a larger opening vs the big box cheapo stats. Your choice !

My guess and its a guess mind you, is yes, but only a rebuilder will be the judge of that. Try it, what have you got to loose ?

I used a heavy duty cast aftermarket V8 tstat housing and a flex hose that had a different size on each end which fit the V8 housing and the radiator. much like what sniper said. I like the V8 housing, much more robust.

If someone has not already suggested it, call up pertronix and explain the issue you are seeing. They may be able to help.

I know you said funds are tight, but consider having a spicer type driveshaft made for it. Local shop made mine, measure the distance between the companion flanges and that should be all you will need to give to the shop.

what about a jeep cherokee 4.0L 6 and a trans from the same or something that will adapt to it. Tons of these around and they are really good running motors....

if you dont mind non original parts look at a champion radiator. all new Aluminum unit, cools perfectly in my car and inexpensive. Paint it black and be happy...

IF the thermometer readings do not resolve the issue - ie inaccurate gauge, then look to the thermostat. Many do not actually open at the temp specified. I always check them on the stove with a good thermometer, I rarely find any that open at their specified temp. usually 10-15 degrees higher.

My machinist recommends using jb weld to seal the disc type plugs. if you need to remove them later, just heat up with a propane torch to remove the jb weld.

I used the best gasket 3675 seal on my 52. It had the two piece rope style in your last post. I was changing the clutch had the flywheel out, making this easier to get at everything. I lowered the crank by loosening all the main caps and completely removing the rear main cap. I cleaned the main cap thoroughly and flushed out the recess in the block with carb cleaner. I filled the two large back drain holes in the main cap with jb weld, allowed it to cure overnight. Cleaned the pan thoroughly and straightened the pan rail. I coated the back side of the upper seal using permatex number 2 and slid it into place, similarly coated the lower seal and slid it into place in the cap. Best recommended there be no sealant on the butt ends of the seal. I applied a small amount of black silicone on the cap metal to metal surfaces and sent it home. NO leaks, zero. Many others have done this and have had leaks. Not sure what the difference is in what I did vs. others. Best of luck to you with however you decide to go.

Shane - I dont know what your mechanical experience is like, but remember that with a flat tip distributor drive you can be 180 out regardless. Remember that TDC comes up twice on a 4 cycle engine...

I seem to recall that the bushing used in the flat head motors are the same as that used in the V8 LA and B engines. Cheap and easy to find or order at most parts stores.

I'd think if you reduce the length of the guide you are promoting faster wear on the remaining portion in the block. I'd have to measure how much is being removed to judge whether it is worth it.

I used a converter that was outlined how to assemble on a VW bug site. Pretty easy. cost a few bucks to assemble it.

Hot rodders will often add baffles to help control oil from slopping out of the sump when braking etc. I'd use the baffled pan before a non-baffled pan.

Believe Bernbaum used to offer a rebuild service for these....

Drop the oil pan. shove a chunk of 2 x 4 between the block and the crank throw nearest the front of the engine and then use your breaker bar.

I visited George Asche a few years ago and he commented he uses a synthetic grade motor oil in his overdrives. Unfortunately I dont recall the weight oil he uses.

Did you check the hole in the side of the trans and see if it is truly open ? I believe mine has the same but is plugged or not drilled through.