Dartgame

Not to mention that sodium metal will react and explode into flames when dropped into water. VERY dangerous.

I had my damper rebuilt by HB, less expensive than Damper Dr. Good service and fast turnaround. Nice Guy running the business is retired and does rebuilds as his time permits.

No offense intended. I am a degreed chemist. Use HCL carefully and it works great. If you are unsure, do not use it.

Hot tank first to get grease, carbon, and oil paint etc off. Next you can try muriatic acid - chemically known as hydrochloric acid (HCL), fast acting, depending on how rusty, it will take probably only a few hours. Inspect your parts once or twice an hour, flush with water each time and you may want to wire brush to get chunks off. Soak in acid until the rust is gone and flush with clean water. Immediately immerse them in caustic water (drano or lye dissolved in water) to neutralize the acid and to prevent flash rust, and then flush with water again. Dry them with compressed air, heat them with a propane torch to get all water out, and coat them immediately with the paint of your choice. A light coat of oil WD40 etc inside will keep them from rusting again until engine runs. Save the acid it stays strong and effective for a long time. I use 5 gallon buckets to store it. A large plastic flat pan is suitable to soak parts. BE CAREFUL. HCL and drano/lye are very destructive to concrete and you. USE heavy rubber gloves and eye protection. Never add water to HCL or other strong acid, instead add the acid to water. Spattering can occur from the heat of solution if water is added to acid, acid added to water allows the heat to dissipate immediately.

I'd think dropping in the motor with the bell housing flywheel and clutch in place is a good bet. Then install the tranny afterwards.

I agree pull the head and take a peek. That engine looks like it has not been run. I have a 52 business coupe and am most of the way done with it. Since we started building a house earlier this year, work on the coupe has slowed to a snails pace. But I will be back on it once we get moved in later this year.

check the resistance using an ohm meter, and compare results to other wires, look for one thats different.

Maybe bad plug or plug wire ?

I got my driveshaft made at a local shop - they knew immediately what needed to be done - I measured the trans flange to axle companion flange length and they made me a new shaft with the spicer u joints. Not cheap, but the best option since I was installing an overdrive which has a longer tail section than the shorty trans used on business coupes and needed a shorter shaft anyway.

I'm with Adam - If the bore is undamaged and mics out in spec, hone it, and drop in a new piston & rings.

I see you are in PA. George Asche the flat head guru lives in western PA. Look him up on this site. You should call him - he probably has an engine in which you might be interested.

No. Take the single bolt apart, and look at the flats. There will be flat splines on both, they interlock and the two bolts hold them together firmly.

I used a seal from Bernbaum. If I installed it with the flat side up the vent would not close completely and seal. I flipped it over with the doubled lipped side up and it works fine. I used weatherstrip adhesive to install it.

the portion you show where there is one bolt should have two to keep it from "scissoring" - those flat splines should mate up and overlap each other.

Not certain but it looks like either a relay for an overdrive trans or maybe for a fluid drive or something like that.

So, have you confirmed you have spark ? How about fuel ? It sounds like it is close to starting. I did not understand what you were saying about shorting and wires smoking..did you get that sorted out ? Maybe when the wires on the coil were messed up it burnt the small wire in the distributor ? Some of these distributors have a small wire under the cap that can get shorted out when the insulation fails on them... It might be wise to take the starter out disassemble clean lube and reinstall. Sounds like the starter is not keeping the bendix engaged long enough which could be part of the issue, not turning over fast enough.

As you said look at the points and more importantly the condensor, next would be the coil... A regulator - will not stop it from having spark, I dont think anyway (could be wrong). Your starter may be tired and in need of an inspection & cleaning - lube on bearings, if the engine still turns over slow.

ignition switches shouldnt be a costly item, at least for my car they arent. I suppose your car has a push button switch to run the starter. Try jerry rigging jumpers to the ignition and the starter button and give her a whirl.

Various GM late models have built in three points as do some convertibles that mopar produced. Models that come to mind are cadillacs, Yukons, envoys and I believe chrysler sebrings are some examples from early 2000's.

If you can shake your release bearing and it rattles, its probably bad.

Cruizin - yes correct part number. I mounted the reservoir on the firewall to avoid siphoning problems thus eliminating the need for residual valves in the lines going front and back - I used disc brakes on front and rear. If you have drums on the rear you will need a residual pressure valve for them, 10 psi if memory serves me correctly.

I sold and worked in the lab with the raw materials used in auto refinish and oem for most of my career. We were a producer selling molecules to the big paint companies. Putting it bluntly, the mark up paint companies make on their finished product is outrageous. The raw material cost of a gallon of clear coat polyurethane is probably no more than 50$ depending on what's in it. Don't hesitate to use the knock offs, they bought from us too and their formulas have every bit as good performance as the name brands. Where the costs are is in the pigmented systems (base coats), but even still these don't match up with the mark ups. I was appalled at the base/clear paint cost when I had my 52 repainted, I resorted to using single stage catalyzed enamel, to keep raw material paint costs down.

I found a plan for a voltage reducer on a vw web page which we built that seems to work. A few discreet electrical devices and a heat sink.

I'd grease those zerks on the water pump and give her a whirl. Probably have to replace the pump anyway, but to get it running - why not - go for it.

Dwest take a look at Randy Rundles page on overdrives - https://fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com/2017/01/borg-warner-r-10-and-r-11-overdrives.html