MBF

Check the gaskets between the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the exhaust ports and the block. If the gasket where the two manifolds join turns out to be the cluprit you should be able to heat the area around the base of the intake where the bolts go that hold the 2 manifolds together to a red glow (one at a time) to get them to loosen. If not, or if the manifold can't be repaired by welding-the hunt is on. Mike

If the grooves and rings are clean and straight-there shouldn't be an issue with the locking rings although I do share your concerns. I've even seen folks run radials on these old rims. I just found 2 in a local yard that I'm going to clean up and put new rubber on for the rear. I was at Macungie this past weekend and one vendor had 2 6 lug 17" drop centers for $15 but I'm not even sure if these would clear our drums-I had a tape with me I should have taken a measurement. If they did fit, the next issue w 17's or 17.5's is finding tires which is why I didn't look more closely, but I thought I struck gold until I saw the tire size on the sidewalls. Another option that would be like a "super single" is the lockring style rims that were used on the Kaiser Jeep military vehicles in the 60's. These should be available through a surplus dealer somewhere as NOS, but they have a different deep offset than the single or duals of our trucks. They can only be used as singles, but I believe that they're wider than our rims. Mike

I'd recommend some type of heat shield too just to avoid the possibility of someone accidentily leaning or falling against a hot muffler/exhaust. With everybody being so sue crazy these days-why take a chance? Mike

There will be at least another 1 other than yours! See you over the weekend. Mike

Folks-if you're going to be near Allentown, PA this weekend the Antique Truck Club of America is hold its 31st Annual antique truck show at Veteran's Memorial Park June 18th-20th. We're hoping for 600+ trucks, and the weather looks great. There is a huge truck related flea market too. For more information on this and other antique truck events go to antiquetruckclub.org and check out our calendar. Hope to see you there. Mike

Its no diamond studded collar in my book. The oil remains clear in appearance much longer, and a working PCV system has a scavenging effect for the crankcase that I believe is much more efficient and cleaner than the draft tube using existing vacuum. I cannot believe that Detroit would go to additional costs of incorporating this on vehicles if it didn't have a positive effect. Just my 2 cents of having been there and done that. Mike

Some of those vacuum units you almost had to be born on to shift smoothly-the air and electically operated units were a lot easier to use. I had a 39 Dodge ton and a half that had a lever shifted 2 speed-that was a hoot to drive. Mike

Good morning. The 180 will allow the engine run hotter which in turn raises the temp of the oil and allows it to better vaporize moisture in the crankcase which can then be removed by the PCF system. As far as the PCV system itself-I believe there are kits available from Vintage Power Wagons. The system replaces the road draft tube with fittings/plumbing that hook the crankcase ventilation system to the vacuum side of the engine to help "persuade" the moisture to leave the system. It isn't dependant on ground speed like the road draft tube-as long as there is engine vacuum the system is drawing the vaporized moisture (after the oil is up to temp-and this will take more than a few minutes driving)into the intake. Makes for much cleaner engine oil and helps to keep the crankcase free of sludge. Mike

I was in a yard yesterday-saw a 49 panel, a 50 long bed, 52 1 ton, 46 1 ton-the guy won't sell anything because he's going to "restore them all" some day. These trucks were in nice shape when they were brought in 15 yrs ago. Going to seed.

On my 1 ton, the axle had to come out be put in a press and heat the eyes and even then it took a bit of doing. Once they started to move-the battle was over. If you're trying to do this on the vehicle, make sure the axle is solidly supported near the eye so that the force from each blow is actually doing something instead of being transferred down the shaft of the axle to the support that you're using. The good thing is-you'll probably never have to do this again! Mike

I have seen some nice jobs come out of MAACO. How about that single stage Duplicolor ready mixed paint sold by Advanced Auto Parts if you want to spray your own. You're limited in colors but it is an alternative! I used Rustoleum on mine about 8 yrs ago because I got tired of the primer Still looks good-but I'll be reshooting it if I do a frame off. GB used a similar process with a brush and his truck looks good too. Mike

Looks like some 'spensive accessories

The crank out windshield is a nice feature-I use the one in my 36 Plymouth most of the time in the summer mos with the cowl vent. A lot more ventilation than just the PH cowl vent. The aerodynamics are pretty good too-the windows can be fully rolled down and the Mrs. isn't complaining about her hair getting messed up.

I had one in similar condition to yours-it was leaking up near the neck. I cleaned it up the best I could inside and out, and then put a coating of JB Weld inside and out to add some more "material" to its structure. That did the trick. You couldn't see the repair since it was hidden under the hose. Mike

Like the old Toyota commercials "Oh what a feeling......"

Congratulations. My wife and I used my 36 Plymouth as a wedding limo 30 yrs ago this August. Our oldest daughter used it in her wedding last summer. A MoPar wedding seems to work. Good luck! Mike

I got mine from NAPA about 10 yrs ago-haven't had a problem with it. Is your brake fluid clean or been changed recently? Mike

If you're carb is leaking from the float being set too high-this is a problem I've experienced in the past too. What this does is drip excess gas liquid down in the manifold that is not properly atomized for combustion. Cranking a hot motor takes more energy so the starter may be using more than the nomal amp draw to crank the engine. This can reduce the amount of power going to the coil, resulting in a weakened spark. A weakened spark, with a fuel mixture that doesn't want to burn(flooding) and every time you hit the starter you add more fuel to the system. A shot of carb cleaner down the throat may allow it to fire in these situations. I've been told by two performance engine builders that some of today's gas has a higher percentage of ethanol than its supposed to resulting in a lower boiling point-see the snowball effect growing here? Mike

I don't think those rear wheels are the dual offset. I think they're the single offsets that match those on the front. Mike

That's what I did w my front parking lights. I t'd off of the tailight circuit on the headlight switch. Mike

49-Like you said- I'm pretty sure the box mounting are different between the 49 and 50-53 trucks. On my '49 1 ton, the wheel is much more close to being horizontal than on the 52 parts truck that I have. I took the column out and like you notice the difference in the mounting brackets. The 49-50 version also has a shorter column support under the dash. I'm not sure if the internals of the 2 boxes or the mounting brackets are interchangable or not. Let me know what you find out. I have a good complete 52 box/shaft assembly that I may put in my 49 if I can get it to fit. Mike

Are the 17.5's tubeless and drop center type rims? That may explain the difference. Mike

I did-its got a growl when accellerating, and a drone at highway speeds. May have been ok when I was younger-but going to switch to a standard muffler to quiet it down a bit. Then I'll be able to hear the other stuff I haven't been able to worry about! Mike

Its good to have a choice of used parts-I'm glad I'm not the only one that keeps everything (whether it works or not) in the barn. Rebuilding a starter or a generator isn't a big deal to do yourself as long as it doesn't need machine work or have any dead shorts. A good cleaning (both the housing and commutator), a set of brushes, seated properly, lube and you should be good to go. With an inventory like you've got you can make 1 out of 3! Mike

You may get buy pulling it apart and cleaning it, resoldering the resistors (if needed), lube and put back together. Mike