MBF

I can answer question #1. That input tube or collar that you reference is what centers and guides the throwout bearing for the clutch. It needs to be smooth and free of gouges to allow the t/o bearing to travel smoothly. As far as the gearlube smell in the minivan-you're on your own with that one! I've been married 30 yrs by the grace of God and advised not to give marital advise whether it is solicited or not! Mike

Good morning. If it is a 6 lug BUDD style setup it is a locking ring type rim (2 piece). To disassemble you air down the tire, put a a tire iron or pry bar into the slot on the ring and pry it up out of the groove if fits into on the rim. Then the tire and tube can be removed from the rim. Clean both the groove in the rim, and the lip on the ring to make sure that they are not full of rust or damaged as it needs to fit tightly in order to work safely. If the ring fits loosely on the rim-get rid of it-it should have to be worked back on when you go to reassemble it. I'd suggest that if you have messed with this type of rim before that you have a tire shop mount and inflate your tire for you. These need to be chained up during inflation or done in a cage in case it comes apart. Mike

I believe that the wire coming through the firewall is always hot negative feed (remember these are positive grounds) and the one coming from the steering column is an open ground (positive) that is made when the horn button or horn ring is pressed. Mike

I just did a valve job on my 230 this past Winter. All of the guides had the beveled end up. I pulled apart what was a running 230 for a parts source and all of those we bevel up too. That parts motor had been rebuilt years ago by a very competent and fussy mechanic and ran for many years as a daily driver-he took it off the road when a tree fell across the hood. I replaced the guides that needed replacing in the same orientation that they came out. Only 2 out of 12 were worn-#3 intake, and #6 exhaust. Mike

The headlights have chrome 1/2 brows on them-small clear lights are parking lights, turn signals are mounted on the bumper-didn't want holes in the fenders. I'll post the photos I took when the retailer posts theirs' in the stores to keep myself out of trouble. They also took a video of the models runing from behind the truck and all 5 jumping in the cab-don't know if they'll use that or not. So these aren't just 3 man cabs! The cabover MACK is going to get a flatbed on it to carry the antique tractors and maybe the PH too. I can use the sleeper as a home away from home or if I get on the S_ _ _ list. Nothing's changed here-still an average Joe w a PH that gorgeous models were on! Life is good!

A national chain "retailer" used my 52 in a photo shoot with a theme of "Americana" last weekend. Should be in store fliers and wall hangings in stores in July if we don't end up on the cutting room floor. Hidden Valley Ranch got nuthin' on us Pilot House guys! I'll post some photos I took during the session with the models after they post their pics.

I'll jump in an add my 2 cents. I'd run a good detergent oil with a zinc additive for just long enough to get a few miles on it, and then dump the oil and filter to get rid of the assembly lube that was used along with any particulates that are in the oil. And then replace the oil and zinc additive. That's what the machinist wanted done with my /6. The next oil change was due at 1000 miles, and then go to regular oilchange intervals. Good luck-it sure is a good feeling to know that its done and to hear it run. GB's idea of the magnet is a good one too. If you can't find a speaker mag-one from an auto trans will work too. Mike

I don't know how true this is because I've never heard it before, but my machinist told me that rings will move or slowly rotate around the piston. That is supposedly what keeps them from sticking in the lands. Comments? Mike

John-I just put a speedi sleeve on the output pinion of my transmission. The seal looked ok, but there was a groove in the pinion. Drove it over 60 miles over the weekend and it looks like the sleeve solved the leakage problem-haven't seen a drop! Mike

Nice truck Austinsailor. I got a new cabover today too! Been looking at this for almost a year now-finally able to get the deal done! Something to keep the Dodges in the fleet company.

Anyone have the p/n for a 3 spd trans (floor shifted) in a B1C? Thanks-Mike

My Dad is retired from NY Bell System (what is now Verizon). He had several lineman type trucks during his career. The one I remember most was a 52 pilot house w a utility body on it. I remember going to work with him when he was called in on nights and standing up in the seat and aiming the roof mounted spotlight while we rode along back roads looking for pole numbers. I aint be right since truck wise! When I found my 52 rack body (well really its a 49 in 52 clothing) I knew I had to have it. I was able to swap even for a 50 Ford F5 that I had and we both walked away happy. I'm too tall to stand on the seat today, so I sit and enjoy driving it. My dad wants me to put a roof mounted spotlight on it, but it won't fit under the garage door if I do that. Mike

Is it the pan or a seal leaking? It isn't something simple like the gasket around the drain plug is it? If its the pan gaskets I dropped cleaned and reinstalled mine in a couple of hours-taking my time. Maybe she'll slow or stop on her own after running if you're lucky! I agree on not using additives-they only seem to prolong the inevevitible! Mike

Something else to try-left handed drill bits. The vibration of the drilling process may loosen it up enough to back it out after a couple of progressive holes. Last month when I had my engine apart I couldn't separate the manifold sections as the bolts were frozen. My machinist suggested heating the area around the bolt threads red hot and then trying a wrench on them with a little finesse. He said the cast iron of the manifolds and the steel in the bolts each had different expansion rates and with heat they'd loosen up. I kinda gave up on that, but out of curiosity I gave it a shot. All four came out easily! Gotta love that blue wrench! Mike

How does the double flare look on the end of the brake line? Was the fitting or MC ever cross threaded? Are you sure that the block that screws into the MC isn't the culprit? Just something else to consider. Mike

Thanks guys. This is a B1C with the floor shifted 3 speed. The drum is bigger than a 1/2 ton 3 speed. I'll try to get a measurement on it tomorrow. Please pm me if you have something usable. I'm not sure I want to dig into that rear seal right now until I drive it some to see the results of my valve job. The tranny was overfilled, so I don't know if she'll leak now or not. Thanks. Mike

I made a gasket out of the top of a laundry detergent bottle (big neck type) from right under the cap. The tapered area matched perfectly. It eliminates the rattles, and seals it up nicely. Mike

For the e brake band-if its soaked in gear oil, you can throw it in a parts washer to get the surface stuff off of it once you get the rear seal replaced (I've got to do that job too). Depending on how much "meat" is left on the lining it may be smart to have it relined since it may chatter if used in an emergency stop. Once they get oil on them their hard to get clean, and its probably asbestos, so you may want to have it relined with a newer material. If you're going to reline it-leave the oil on it-that will keep the particles from flying off it, or put it in a plastic bag and seal it up. Mike

The systems in these trucks are non pressurized, and having just done a valve job in my '52 I don't recall any oil passages going from the block to the head-there's nothing in the head requiring lubrication that I'm aware of. In an overhead valve engine yes but not these. I think you'd be more likely to have coolant in the oil on a flathead than vice versa, and maybe some spent combustion gases in the coolant. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Mike

Was the throwout bearing you installed American made? My local NAPA dealer advised against using the "overseas" versions due to numerous problems they've had with them in the past. Are you sure that you put the disc in facing the correct way? I'd be replacing all three pcs (pressure plate, disk, and bearing) with the correct American made ones for the vehicle. Mike

Merle-Happy Birthday. Hope you enjoy your day. Mike

Have you thought about contacting the publisher/printer to see if this could be made available via "Print on Deman" or pod? The essence of that is that the material is printed as requested on demand. 1 request, 1 book etc. This avoids the long wait of getting to a minimum required number of copies before a regular production run can be scheduled. Just a thought. Mike copies.

Anyone have a good servicable brake band for a 3 speed B1C? I don't want to send mine out to a reliner w/o having a spare to use in case it gets lost. Please pm me if you can help out. Thanks-Mike

Cabs/noses are interchangable as are the front axles. Not sure about the rear, but I imagine that would as well. I'm assuming it a full floating style rear end on the one ton. If there are wheelbase difference a driveshaft shortening may be in order if you change the rear (the 1 ton has different ujoints) as well as changing the brake drum asm on the rear of the transmission. If you're going from a 3 speed trans to a 4 speed the bell housing will have to be changed too. Mike

Was the viscosity that of oil or just the color? I'd crack one of the drain petcocks and see what comes out from the lowest area of the cooling system. It might just be a skim that floated to the top of the cooling system. Mike