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stevenelle

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    San Angelo, Texas
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    Dodge truck; Grandkids

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    Wildlife Biologist

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  1. Thanks to all of you for the info. This is what I was afraid of but was hoping for an easier solution. I think the Lord wants me to develop more patience so here we go with Lesson No. 1.
  2. Lubrication has not helped. Zenmaster - how much of a hassle is it to remove the latch mechanism for the fix? (I presume here that you are not just talking about the square extension of the outer door handle - which is not the problem in my situation). Thanks.
  3. Drivers side door on B2B will open from inside latch but not from outside latch. I wonder if something wears out eventually and whether the whole inner latch mechanism needs to be replaced or if something else might be a fix. Outer handle turns but does not completely retract the bolt. Any assistance is appreciated.
  4. Have had too much brake pedal for a while; thought it was just needing an adjustment to compensate for shoe wear. But after "trying" to adjust those brakes with some newer thicker shoes, I still have low pedal. Now I think it must be air. I tried the improvised pressure bleeder method (made with pump up sprayer and rubber cork). Pushed a lot of fluid thru all 6 bleeders but no air. Still have low pedal but can pump it up a few times to get more brake. Now I wonder if I have air in Master cylinder, and if so, how can it be purged. I really don't want to remove it if at all possible. Thank you for any assistance on this.
  5. Thanks very much Dave and Jeff. Once again, the boys on the forum have solved my problem. I have a long pedal stroke on brakes (which is a whole different story). Brake pedal was in fact rubbing on battery cable going to starter when fully depressed. There was even some melted copper deposits on brake pedal where the contact was being made. Will be an easy fix. Now I need to adjust brakes so that pedal does not travel so far. As a side note - I can't adequately describe how much benefit I have derived from this forum since I acquired my old 1950. it is the only Pilothouse in this town of 90,000 and I get plenty of comments and compliments on it even though it is not restored on the outside. With coaching from this forum, I have been able to tackle everything that has come up. When I bought this truck, it had to be towed to my house where it sat until I could get it running and the brakes working and a dozen other issues. It was a challenge and a joy and this truck has been my primary daily driver for the last 6 years. I am a very mediocre mechanic at best, but with your help, I have been able to get this truck up and running. Thanks again.
  6. Thanks for the ideas. Another strange twist to this was discovered yesterday - everthing seems OK (looking at ammeter) until I press on the brake - then meter bounces around wildly, and I can also see a response in the fuel gauge needle when brake is pressed. On top of that, if truck is idling slow, it dies when brake is pushed. Seems like a strange combination of effects. Any other ideas to help pinpoint the problem? On a related note, after Dan's post, do voltage regulators go bad with no apparant visual indications? I do not have the know how to check the regulator. It seems like a somewhat involved process for a non electricl guy. Thanks for any additional help
  7. Hello all - I have been silent on the forum for a good while but now once again I need some help. B2B with original 6v system - ammeter jumps around and shows more charging than normal. No burned contact on regulator. Drove it today and smelled hot wires but saw no smoke. Heard some sizzling - checked the battery and part of the terminal had melted and spattered. Not good. Problem is intermittent, not continuous. Made it back home OK. Must be a short somewhere, but any suggestions on where to start would be appreciated. Thanks for any help.
  8. Trying to replumb the heater after several years of non use. Does the hose from the water pump go to the top or bottom pipe of the heater core; or does it matter. Thanks
  9. I've had the same problem. Speedometer problems can be frustrating with these trucks. I have had 3 different speedo's that look basically the same, but as you noted, they don't all match up to the cable housing nut. You will either have to get a speedo that matches your cable or vice versa. I have gone so far as to rob parts from one speedo to fix another, but that is tedious and delicate work that can result in busted parts. Can usually find these speedo's on ebay from time to time and not that expensive.
  10. When I first got my B2b and got it running, all cylinders had poor compression. Yet it ran fine (and sure was easy to start with hand crank). Never had an excess of power but more than I would have thought possible from an old worn out 1950 engine. I drove it that way for about a year or two. I suspect it might be what has already been suggested (point gap and/or ignition timing). You may need to advance the spark way more than what the book says. May want to use a vacuum gauge to help set. That original engine ran well enough, although it smoked a bit too much. Rebuilding the engine was very satisfying for me and it was the first engine I had ever done. The guys on this forum will provide you with all the help and encouragement you need to tackle just about any job. I like your forum knickname. The kids in my neighborhood call me Tomater when they see my truck parked out front. For those of you who do not know who Tomater is - a talking, old, beat-up, buck-tooth tow truck cartoon character from a kids movie "Toystory". If you have young grandkids ask them about it.
  11. I disovered this morning that the T handle nut that secures the top of the oil filter cannister has a spring loaded bypass valve. Now I can see better how the circulation continues even if the filter gets clogged. The oil under pressure will push the valve open if no other passages are clear. Helped me to understand this particular system better. On another cannister I have from a parts truck, the nut on top does not have a bypass hole. By the way, I have a Wix 51011 sock type slightly soiled where I tried to cram it in the can. Otherwise brand new. I'll send it to whomever wants it and provides a mailing address. My cannister needs the folded paper unit.
  12. Thought some of you might be interested in checking out this Craigslist ad for disassembled pilothouse plus lots of spare parts in Longview Tx. http://easttexas.craigslist.org:80/cto/1896716269.html
  13. More on stainless vs sheet metal - and trying to make them shine without cost of chrome. All of my four bars are magnetic, so I guess that means they are not stainless steel. Yet two are shiny and two are ugly. Were the bars on some models chrome plated from factory or is that after market? Question: If I shine up the ugly ones with buffing and polishing, will a clear coat of some sort discourage the formation of rust.
  14. Saw on another thread that the 4 grill bars are stainless steel and not chrome plated. I was thinking about getting mine chromed but did not want to pay the price. Two of mine (the top two) still look good. Nice finish and even shiny on the back side. The other two longer ones had been painted black many years ago and the back side is rusty. If they are all stainless, why did two get rusty and two did not? How difficult is it for an average guy with a buffer wheel on the grinder to shine these babies up to where they look decent. Tony Urwin - do you have some pointers for trying this at home?
  15. Darn little brake light switch - have had to replace it once a year or more often for the last 4 or 5 years. That seems excessive. Is there a manufacturer or distributor that sells a higher quality part?
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