MBF

GB-not to hijack this thread, but I do have a "working" outhouse in my yard that we use for parties, or when I'm in the shop. Having had to use this a week ago in 18 degree weather, the idea of heat and wall to wall carpeting is not as off base as you'd think! I hauled this in on my PH Flatbed-I've got a picture that I'll try to find and scan! The people that gave it to me are really sorry that they gave it away (they're relatives)-if it was heated and carpeted I'd have never been the recipient! Mike

Amps are amps-the only thing you should have to do is to swap the wires on the back of the ammeter to reflect the change from a positive to negative ground. Likewise-with the low voltage wires on the coil-they'll need to be switched too. I installed a voltmeter under the dash to eliminate the Mopar design where everything flows through the ammeter. I've added a lot of lights to my stakebed and I didn't want to get left in the dark with the additional load going through the meter-especially if the heater was on! Mike

If the 1 ton has the 6 lug Budd type (locking ring) rims I believe that the brake drums are bigger than a half ton, but I have been using a 52 1/2 ton as a parts source for my 49 1 ton for years-last weekend I pulled the engine and trans out of it for a potential rebuildable core. Just can't get myself motivated to get going on it! Mike

Happy New Year. Ditto on what GB said. I used a GM internally regulated alternator on both my 52 Dodge, and 36 Plymouth. I think they cost less than $60 each, and bought the 12 v coil alond w the bulbs. I installed a ballast resistor for the heater motors on each vehicle, and replaced all of the bulbs. Don't forget about the fuel guage-that will need a special resistor or you'll fry the guage-don't ask me how I learned that lesson! If I remember correctly, the front ear of the lower alternator bracket needs to be moved 7/8" forward to line up the pulleys-someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this. Good luck. Mike

Best wishes for a very Merry Christmas, and a healthy Happy New Year. Mike

I've got one of those-but its a John Deere Lug wrench for the Dayton styled rear wheels on my 53 JD AO. Mike

A leakdown test is where you apply a regulated supply of compressed air (30-40 lbs) through the spark plug using a fitting similar to a compression tester w/o the check valve, and attached to a regulated air sourse. You watch, listen and see where the air it leaks from and how fast. You do this with all valve adjustments backed off so that all valves are closed and seated. If you have a leaking intake valve-you'll hear hissing in the carb, a burnt exhaust valve will be heard through the exhaust or tailpipe, leaking rings will be heard in the crankcase (on flatheads either through the road draft tube or the oil filler). A leaking head gasket may be heard through by bubbling in the cooling system. You can also tell the condition of your rings by putting some oil in each cylinder through the spark plug hole, and then do your compression test again to see if it changes any of the reading significantly. That would indicate worn rings/cylinder. Mike

This is better than I thought you'd have from previous posts. Have you done a leakdown test to see why the low cylinders (valves or rings)? I'd recheck the valve lash with the engine hot (a loose valve won't burn, but one set too tight (not enough clearance) may. If these readings reflect your valves being properly adjusted, I'd be tempted to put it in and run it for awhile and see what it does. I'd also add the zinc additive (NAPA sells it under the LUCAS brand but there are others). That will keep the cam lobes and lifter's from galling. Running it in the truck up to temp under the load of propelling the truck may actually improve your readings. Do you have any idea why it was taken apart? Was it for a stuck valve? It sure sounded good sitting on the stand. Mike

I just went through a similar scenario with my 78 Dodge slant six. I was tempted to just hone and rering it. Bottom end was tight and had good oil pressure. When I took the pistions out there was an extensive taper worn into the cylindrers, and some had a ring gap that was far beyond the specs. I was told to rering and put it back together. I took it to a machine shop that mic'd the bores. He builds racing engines and gave me some options, but strongly recommended boring the cylinders. I had to go .030 over, have all new pistons, bearings, oilpump, cam bearings, chain, gear, dist drive and a trued head, 3 angle valve job. While I had it out I did all of the accessories (water, fuel pump, etc). It was more money than I wanted to spend, but even w only 300 miles on it it runs better than it ever has in the past 29 years. Having said that-it depends on what you want to do with the truck. All of my trucks are toys that sit in the garage until show season, but at 56 yrs of age I didn't want to be taking it out and apart in another 5 yrs. And wouldn't you know-as soon as I got the 78 together, the 52 1 ton burned the exhaust valve on #6! Soooooo-here we go again! You did a fine job for an ex English teacher-I know-I'm an ex instrumental music teacher! Mike

That's great-I know that feeling. I'd give her a drink of Marvel Mystery oil down the carb throat when she's hot. I'd even choke it off on it when its going to sit for a few days to maybe help the rings loosen up. Did you have much of a ridge on the top of the cylinder bores? Mike

That's half of the fun of driving these old flatheads-keepin' em accellerating when they're cold. Good right arm exercise-choke, shift, adjust the choke, shift and then a final adjustment. Trying to make a left hand turn at a light with oncoming traffic (no directionals), and she's cold-that's juggler training at its best. Nice truck.

Wow-I wouldn't give that a 2nd thought-that is a keeper and project for sure-you're starting out with something in much nicer shape than a lot of us have, and it has family roots too. Mike

Isn't that a ton and a half? My 1 ton has the 6 lug Budd duals, the one in the photo has the 5 lug 20" wheels. But it sure is a factory stakebody!

My 49/52 1 ton has a factory stakebed on it. Looks like it belongs there-because it does. Any pics of your truck you can post? Mike

I agree w Don-if they won't let go w penetrating fluid-pull the head and see what's up. If you do get it running, you can try giving it a dose of Marvel Mystery oil down the carb to help free up what is already loose. Just make sure that your wife or neighbor doesn't have laundry hanging out if you decide to do that-believe me-I know. The good thing is that it sometimes works! Mike

Nice looking truck. I think doing a disc conversion on a 1 ton is going to create some issues that the 1/2 ton folks didn't have to deal with-namely coming up with a hub/disc assembly that will allow you to use your 6 16" Budd wheels. I've gone through my fronts brakes in the past on my 1 ton, and when they're adjusted properly, they're not a terrible brake-just a pain in the butt as they're not self energizing due to the anchon concentrics on the bottom of the shoes so they need occasional attention for adjustments. I do wish there was a dual reservoir MC that was almost a bolt in swap just for a little extra insurance though. Mike

Good way to spend a holiday. Got any pictures to post? Going to mess with mine today.

If I remember correctly, the entire parking brake assembly is mounted to a horizontal pin on the rear of the trans. The floor mounted handle is attached on top of the trans. Maybe someone here has some pictures? I have an engine/trans out of a larger truck in my shed in the woods, but with the nitwits from the city that are hunting up here, I'm staying out until deer season is over.

Why is this stuff always so far away..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180433713550&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MOTORS:1123

Yup that was just before the world ended Dec 31, 1999. Maybe the old Dodges will be our salvation and get us to higher ground

Pat-whether or not use you separate stop/turn and tail lights is dependant on which type of turn signal switch that you're using. The 5 wire switch runs the turn signals independantly and requires the use of lights that are added to the vehicle. The 7 wire turn signal switch, allows you to route the turn signal wiring through the brakelight switch and in effect uses the existing brake and tail lamp assemblies on the vehicle-so you don't need to mount or add lights on the rear to have turn signals. I'm not aware of any 3 filament bulbs or what they'd be used for. Just my ramblings......

The girl and the flattie-there's an oxymoron if I ever heard one. I'll bet she's someone's great grandma today. Some old trucks seem to age more gracefully than some people do.

I think you can get a hell of a tickle if you wet a finger on each hand and touch the positive and negative posts of a fully charged battery at the same time. I somehow seem to remember this happening on a dare as a kid and I aint been right since.

I may have an extra outer piece. Will check in the next day or so. Mike