MBF

I used a piece of foam sheeting that my wife picked up at a fabric store. I can't remember if they were 1/8 or 1/4 inch. I cut them to shape and then glued on my material using contact cement and screwed them to the door using the original holes. That was 4 or five years ago-still holding up well. I did the same thing with the rear panel around the rear window. Um-ignore the dummy-she's been reworked to be more anatomically correct. I take her to shows w me because my wife says the truck is too noisy, and I don't like to go to events alone. She gets lots of comments and stares. Mike

For the front cowl supports I found a pair of a slightly different design from a 52 Dodge. They were in much better shape than what was on the truck. I cleaned 'em up on a wire wheel, primed and painted and then used a spray on undercoating before I installed them. For the fender rivet repair, I did the same as GB. Mike

Pretty sure they're from a Dodge passenger car of the late 40's or early 50's. I have one hanging on a wall, but it came off a PH parts truck I have. Mike

You may want to remove the dust band and check the brushes and commutator. Worn down brushes, weak brush spring tension, corrosion on the comm will cause resistance and slow operation. Mike

If you're going to try to jump w a 12V batt, make sure that the positive (ground) cable is disconnected from the battery. Run your jumper cable to the disconnected ground cable, and after it starts, disconnect the 12V jumper and reconnect the ground cable to the 6 v battery. Jumping 6 w 12 is a good way to blow the top off a 6 volt batt-I learned that when I was a kid. Mike

About 35 yrs ago in my '53 Chev passenger car I was going down the road with a set of NOS brake shoes that had been installed within the last 6 mos. All of a sudden the right rear wheel locked up after applying the brakes. When we took it apart I found that the bonding on the rear shoe had failed and the lining had gotten wedged between the front shoe and drum. Went to NAPA and replace all four sets of shoes. Mike

Good morning-I believe that is the same as the one on my 230 a NAPA 1011 or something similar. Since you have the unit off, I'd take it to a local dealer and see if they can match it up for you. I bought one about a month ago for this year's cruising season. Mike

I did the same on the heater motors for my 36 Plymouth, and 49 1 ton. No issues, and it was done 4-5 yrs ago. Mike

Could it be that there was a brass mesh screen/filter between the two gaskets? One of my antique John Deere's had that setup in the sediment bowl. Mike

I bought a 50's dash mounted compass for my 1 ton, and have a 50's NY state map clipped on the dash marked as my 50's GPS. I wonder if that poses any threat to my security? They're probably not smart enough to read a map. Mike

I've had mine apart to replace the front axle when I did the king pins and rear shackles. What I did was to mount both springs to the chassis loosely with the new hardware pieces you are installing. I then jacked the axle into place with the new king pins and spindles installed. After putting on the U-bolts, I tightened everything down (u-bolts, front spring mount, rear shackles and shock mounts). After mounting the brake concentrics, and backing plates, I continued on with the assembly. Like you, I noticed that there was a little side to side movement at the front spring mounts. My feeling, and I could be wrong here, is that if you have new front spring bushings, and new front bolts that fit tightly that there isn't going to be much chance for movement once everything is cinched down. I'm sure someone will speak up if I did something wrong. Mike

I was going to say something yesterday, but I wasn't sure if I remembered it correctly. Last year when I did my ebrake, speedy sleeve and rear seal on my 3 spd. I thought I remembered that the center nut had to come off-the four bolts were to hold the flange on the drum. Mike

If anyone has done this conversion, please let me know what is required. I've got two sets of doors with the vent window hardware, one is from CA that I'd eventually like to convert to the single pane glass and install on my truck. Mike

Frank-If I recall correctly I think that the sulfation of a battery is the result of flecks of the paste that makes up the cell plates breaking off and settling to the bottom of the battery. This happens until they eventually cause the end of life of the battery by shorting out the plates. I used to maintain a large fleet of electric industrial vehicles and was told in one of the factory schools that I attended that sulfation started the moment at that the electrolyte was added to the battery whether it was in use or not. If fact I believe if the battery was in regular use that it actually slowed down the sulfation process through the movement of some of the particles through the charge/discharge cycles. I'm not aware of any way to chase these particles back up into the plates once they've settled to the bottom. I could be wrong-but this is my recollection. Mike

The vacuum leak at the distributor may be contributing to your idling problem. I'd also check the timing while you're fixing that. Someone may have pulled the distributor to make some type of repair and not put it back in the same orientation. If you go to what used to be the old Bill Knapp tractor junkyard in Lakeside (down near Cuylerville) he had a 49 1 ton in the yard across from the main yard-but that was 6-7 yrs ago. Mike

Welcome to the forum. Where in NY are you located? I know of a couple of parts trucks that may be a source for your seat frame. I've got the original seat cushions and frame in my '49 and it is very comfortable, but has been reupholstered. The choke problem at idle sounds like the idle circuit in your carb may be partially blocked. To see if its something simple, make sure the idle adjustment screw isn't all the way in. You could also try removing the screw and giving it a shot of air through the screw hole. Mike

While you've got that starter out you may want to clean the commutator (segmented copper portion that the brushes ride on) and the brushes. You can do this by removing the dust hstrap from around the front of the starter. If the comm is badly oxidized-a cleaning with a crocus type cloth will work wonders. Also-blow out the starter w compressed air to make sure there is no junk in it. If you take it apart grease the bushings on each end of the shaft and make sure that there isn't excessive play or wear in them-that could cause a short in the starter. If you're staying 6 volt, make sure you buy the proper guage battery cables. The ones used in 12v applications are too light. Good luck. Mike

GGDAD-looks good. What size are the tires? Mike

If it's been correctly converted check the alternator or generator for a tag showing its output. If its an alternator and the voltage regulator is not being used it is most likely a 12V negative ground with an internally regulated alternator. Mike

When I was just a kid learning to drive on the farm with our Model A doodle bug my father told me to always have a pair of pliers and a screwdriver with me. Just bought a new Dodge Caliber, and that already has stuff hidden in it. I usually carry a roll of electrical tape, and a roll of mechanic's wire and a gallon of gas in an under the bed toolbox (made out of an old steel filing cabinet) on my 1 ton-that stuff got me home more than once. There's a certain amount of satisfaction feeling you can tackle the most likely stuff to fail on the road. My only time that I didn't make it back on my own was due to a NAPA fuel pump failing. Mike

Just venturing a guess-could it be a wrench for adjusting the rear axle (full floating) wheel bearing preload and jamb nut? Mike

It's a bypass filter so I wouldn't think it would make that much difference. Most flatties ran w/o any filtration for years. Something is better than nothing. The one that Gravely used is very similar to the CPR115179. It's a cast aluminum piece, I don't think it cost more than $10 or 12. Mike

Lugnut-where are you located? I have a complete engine that I bought for my pickup, but I decided to rebuild the original engine. I'm in the Hudson Valley of NY state. NAPA may be able to help you, but I think you'd have more luck with a reputable machine shop. Mike

Gravely tractors used an adapter that converted the old style sealed filters (used on the L models with the Gravely engine) to a spin on filter. It is a cast piece with mounting flanges, and fittings for a feed, and return line. I would imagine that this could be mounted on the driver's side of the head, and plumbed with rubber or copper lines. See if there are any old Gravely dealers in your neck of the woods. Mike

Nice looking job. Got any more pictures? Mike