MBF

I converted my '36 to 12 volts a few years back, and haven been using a sealed beam conversion kit that was already on the vehicle. I'm looking for a source for the 36's 6volt style headlight bulbs in a 12V application. I've searched NAPA, and they don't have anything. Is anyone aware of a street rod supplier that would sell these? These are the dual filament bulbs with the large flat base that has 3 holes for the pins mounted on the reflector to secure the bulb. I want to put my original lenses and reflectors back on the vehicle. Thanks- Mike

You may want to check out a machine shop that specializes in building engines. They have catalogs based on specifications that are not application specific. What I mean by that is that they can take exact measurements and obtain parts based on those specs. Mike

Up on route 28 west of Kingston NY there was a guy that had a very large 4 wd PH dumptruck (2 ton +) with a huge front, and I believe even a wing plow. I think that is going to be needed tomorrow with what they're predicting for here the next couple of days. It'd be interesting to see that monster in at work. Mike

I'd also check to make sure you don't have some type of fuel delivery issue. Mike

Jim-I'm going from memory here, and there was a thread on this. I think the difference is one has a threaded pipe fitting on the top of the pump, and the other has two threaded bolt holes with an opening for the bypass fitting. I can look further if needed. Mike

Try TRACTOR SUPPLY or a similar retailer. I bought my tank from them and take it back to them for an exchange. Mike

About 14" in the Hudson Valley of NY last night-a real blizzard. Mike

Pat-when they're like that I've had to remove them from the vehicle, put them in a vice and persuade the inards out with a brass drift and hammer. You won't know if its able to be salvaged with a honing until you get it apart. I did mine years ago, and they're still working, but I'm thinking of having mine sleeved since the vehicle sits most of the time. Good luck. Mike

Looks good! Real good. Always liked the 48-50's. Mine is a '49 with a 52 nose, but I kinda liked the way that looked so I didn't convert it back. Seems like someone did the conversion awhile ago and it stuck! I registerred it as a '52 also which is a long story that involves a guy that had just gotten out of prison who was standing in front of me in line at the DMV. Mike

Greg-you're right. I've seen compressors built on Model A Ford, and Chrysler flathead sixes where half of the cylinders were strictly compressor, and the other half used for power. Pretty unique sounds. Mike

Boyd, you may want to check junkyards. I think those rear fenders were used on Dodge stepsides right up through the Little Red Express of the 80's. That should increase your chance of finding what your looking for. Mike

You think parts for a PH are hard to find? Try finding rear end parts for a route van!

How about using one of the old add on heater switches, that would give you on, off, and variable speed as you turn the know with the built in reohstat. Mike

Here's mine at a photo shoot for Walmart this spring. Probably the best looking load its ever hauled... Got one of it hauling in my outhouse too, but these pictures are better Mike

Nice truck but its got a 48-50 driver's door. This isn't the one that was in an accident awhile ago and was in a salvage yard was it? Mike

The centers of my 49's switch knobs are also brass. I was cleaning them up to paint the centers, and liked the way they looked as brass and left them that way. Wonder what else they used this on?

I'd try jacking it up by the frame (not by either axle) and spraying some penetrating oil between the leaves for starters. See what that does. I don't get a lot of movement when I lean over the fender (I weigh 150) but she does move a bit. Mike

That's what I did-had one made. Worked out well-same day service and the tubing is very heavy-it should be the last one I'll ever need. Thanks

Does anyone know of a good source for a header pipe for a 52PH truck w a 230? I bought one many years ago that was kind of angular the way it went down in front of the right side of the bell housing but that one hung down below the truck too far. I've seen pipes like the one on my 36 plymouth that go straight down, and then make a 90 to head towards the rear. We had that one done at a custom shop about 35 yrs ago! Anyone had any header pipes made or bought any recently? Thanks. Mike

The machinist that did my slant 6 told me to make sure that I used the Lucas additive with Zinc on that engine, and the flattys. The zinc was removed because the EPA wanted to reduce emissions or some other bs, and unless specifically listed as an ingredient is not in today's oils. Some racing oils have it, but Rotella does not. Thanks Uncle Sam for helping me out!

I once saw a full flow setup on a flatty 6-the filter housing was mounted right on the oil pump as a unit-the only one I've ever seen. I've been told by a friend of mine that used to work at the Texaco test lab that today's filters have finer elements and have the ability to catch smaller particles and keep them trapped. That coupled with the additives in today's oils that are designed to keep the particulate matter in suspension may work to our advantage with the new spin on filters. I like the period correct look of the old cannister type filters though. I guess its just a matter of preference. If anyone is looking for an adapter to conver to a spin on filter, Gravely tractors used a unit to convert their L models with the Gravely engine to the spin on type. They should still be available. Mike

I've got to go through my 3:89 rear end on my truck-getting a bit worn. The good news is that I have a spare diff that I can rebuild and swap in. I think I read where someone said that the spiders and shafts that they got from VPW were the same as a 1 ton rear. Is that true, and can anyone speak from experience? I'm figuring that I'll have to match up the bearings, the pinion seal is new, but I know the spiders are worn. Can anyone help with a parts source? Thanks-Mike

Try looking for a Ford F350 mid 50's-mid 60's-they have the same bolt pattern. IH's of the same vintage do as well. Again-if your rims and rings are in good solid shape there shouldn't be a problem running "tubed radials" with new flaps. The trucking industry did this for years back in the mid 70's when the initial swap was made from bias ply to radials on the big rigs. Another alternative is to contact a wheel company to have drop center rims made up with the correct offset and bolt pattern. Hang on to your shorts if you go this route! I had a friend that had some rims for his vintage power wagon. They were plain janes with flat centers. I think he said the costs was $250 per wheel a couple of years ago. Mike

I just pulled a 6 bladed fan off my parts truck. It has a larger pulley than what is currently on my truck, and there were 2 spacers behind it (between the rear of the pulley and the bolt flange). I'm assuming that this fan wasn't original, and was from another application that the previous owner used. Mike

Bought mine in '95 and was driving it by '97. Been working on it ever since-and enjoying the hell out of it. It won't be finished until you decide that you want to sell it! Enjoy the project-the time will take care of itself. Mike