MBF

Hi Dan. If you can't find a 12V motor, the ballast resistor works well hooked between the battery source and the variable switch. I've been using these in my 52 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth for several years now w/o a problem. Granted these don't run everyday, but when the roads are dry, and I need to take a ride they do the job. Nothing like heat to increase the enjoyment of an old vehicle. Mike

I'm with DodgeB4. Rebuild what you have. The easiest way to add air brakes would be to change out both axles. Then you're going to have to find a way to mount the compressor, valving, tanks and plumb the system. The problem with bigger axles is that you're probably going to have to move the spring perches on the rear, and God knows what up front. The axles will also most likely be wider than what is under the truck. If the rear is from a diesel it will most likely be geared too high for the flathead, and will stick out past the sides of the vehicle. Then there is going to be the issue of a CDL with an air brake endorsement. Mike

Just to add my 2 cents here and its just an educated guess. The design of a disk / drum system requires two very different volumes of fluid to actuate the front and rear brakes-hence the two different sized reservoirs. If I remember correctly, the early 80's Chev wagon that I had had very small wheel cyls on the rear. What I'm saying here is that the master was designed to work with a large volume piston setup on the front, and with smaller drum cyls of the rear. I think if you measured the volume of fluid coming from each reservoir on a bench bleed single stroke you'd see that only a small portion of the total volume is sent to the rear. Mike

When you're done, you may as well drop the pan and clean out the residue and sludge that has surely accumulated down there before starting it and pumping it through the engine. On a pickup, the pan can be dropped quite easily. After that an oil change, get it up to temp see how she runs. Mike

Jason, I'm not sure how far you can cut the crank, but you may want to have a machinist measure it after you pull the cap. If its round, and within spec they may be able to find a bearing to fit it so that you don't have to pull the crank. The machinist that I use measures most parts and orders from those dimensions, not by application if he's working on something out of the norm. Mike

Take your time-you'll never be done. I've been working on this for over 16 yrs now, and still I'm not anywheres near finished. Yesterday I started working on an under the bed toolbox for the right side (period correct). I enjoy driving it whenever I can-heading out to the final show of the season today! This winter will hopefully be a trans replacement and a rebuild of the differential so that we can start doing some longer trips. Mike

That is one sweet looking truck just the way it is! I take my 52 1 ton to a lot of cruises and shows. Even though it isn't a showpiece I get a lot of comments from both spectators and fellow cruisers. Hate to see the nice weather and long nights come to an end. The last show for the season is tomorrow, and the cruise nights are shutting down weekly. Come on April!

When I did mine, I did some trimming on the inner fender cover to make it easier to remove and install with the fender on. I don't remember exactly where it was trimmed, but I think it was in the rear lower corner. Made it much easier to remove and install. Mike

When big trucks first switched to radials back in the 70's, it was done using the existing locking ring type rim with a radial tube and tire (10R- 20 sized tire). I've got a Mack thats got 4 on the back that used to haul heavy. I've also spoken to 3-4 people that have made the switch to radials on the 6 hole 1 ton rims, and they're very happy with the swap. It improved handling and ride quality. I've talked to one truck tire dealer that advised against using radials on lock rims, and another one that said he had no problem as long as the rims were true, and the groove and locking ring in good condition and tight fitting. I think the big difference in our situation is that our trucks for the most part are hobby or toy trucks, not going to be used to haul heavy loads. While bias ply tires are available for our 16" budds, I'm still comptemplating making the switch to radials on the steers when I need tires. It was common back during the initial swap from bias to radials to use one type on the front, and the other on the rear as long as they weren't mixed on the same axle. Just my 2 cents. Mike

Before you try to start it I think I'd open the drain plug and see if there is any water or junk laying in the bottom of the pan. If the engine is good you don't want to pump that stuff up through it running it. If its really old oil, a lot of the older oils would allow the sediment/contaminents to settle to the bottom of the pan below what the dipstick reads. The oil on top appears to be clear or clean, but the gunk on the bottom is going to be what the pump picks up and sends through the engine first. Mike

On the off chance the rear cylinders are working, don't step on the pedal with the drums off-you'll pop the cylinder(s). I'd bet that both of the rears are seized, or that you have a pinched off metal line, or internally collapsed rubber line in the rear. Once you've determined that the rear brakes are working and properly adjusted you can address the issue with the proportioning valve. Mike

Guys-check with your state. NY state won't allow any after manufacturer welding on steering components. Any type of welded repair will result in failure if the inspector catches it. I know that first hand. Mike

They're a single unit (replacement required). Hopefully someone here will have a good used unit, or know of a NOS part for you. Mike

Do you have the required resistor between the power source to the gauge, and the gauge? I''m hoping someone can tell me what the value is for it so that I can make mine operational. Also need to do the one in the 36 Plymouth.

What Bob says is true. I dismantled the assembly from a 3 speed column shifted 1/2 ton parts truck to use on a floor shifted 3 speed in my 1 ton. The half ton has a smaller drum and brake assembly than the 1 ton-so even all 3 spds aren't the same. Mike

Wow-that is beautiful. Guys-here's a lesson learned. A few years back there was a Dodge PH firetruck (same size as this black beauty) sitting in a farmer's parking lot not too far from here. I drove by it many times, and figured it wouldn't be for sale. WRONG! Another collector bought it took the fire body off and put a Flatbed on it. He took it to numerous truck shows before finally selling it. It had less than 10K miles on it, and only required a minor cleanup and scuffing for the repaint he had done. That truck was super clean and very rare for a PH He bought it for almost nothing. Next time stop and ask. Mike

They also used a sweptside bed from the 57-60 Ford era on one of their trucks. The 3/4 ton version was a tough truck with a face that a mother could love. Mike

Hi Scott-I'm in the Hudson Valley near New Paltz. There is another member up in Red Hook. Welcome to the forum. Mike

Has the engine been refreshed on the lower end (bearings)? Oil leaking around worn bearings will lead to low oil pressure as the oil warms. I've got a Worthington tractor with the same symptons- and I know the bottom end is tired, but that's a project for another day. up. Mike

Years ago I bought nuts and studs (both left and right handed) from my local NAPA. Take a sample with you and have them measure it and match it up for you. Mike

Welcome! Looks like a great starting point to begin from. Mike

If you need some (they come in different angles and sizes) an old alignment shop or garage should have some in inventory. Mike

Those are most likely wedge shaped shims that are used to adjust the caster of the front axle. The purpose is to change the angle of the king pins to make the vehicle track properly going down the road. Mike

Rust around the rivets is just part of the PH aging process. You'd think on a former firetruck that the problem would be less, mine weren't even that bad. I cut out the rusted sections of the outer skin, and before attaching the brace back on the skin, I used some seam sealer between the two pieces. A real design flaw in my opinion, but who'd a thunk we'd be driving these 60 yrs after they were made. Mike

It's the little dogs that bite ya! Many years ago when I was in forklift school at the RAYMOND factory one of the bugs they put in was to place of clear tape over the battery connector. After 20 minutes of checking fuses and continuity-well just say its a lesson well learned!