MBF

Jim-if you go the diesel route, you're probably going to have to do something with the rear end too. Those old rears were geared low to allow the flathead to handle a good load. I had that same 5&2 setup in a 39 Dodge Dump. The extra gears were low-she topped out at about 45, but could almost pull a barn in low low. Mike

Oldmopar-having done my own 1 ton axle a few yrs back, the process was to "remove the old pins" (sometimes easier said than done) and then with a set of new pins in hand fit them into the axle eyes to make sure that they fit snugly and done wobble or move in the eyes. If thats how they fit, your good to go-if not the eyes need to be trued up and oversized pins used. If they do fit snugly you'll need to have the new bushings that come with the pins pressed into the spindles, and then have them reamed to fit the new pins. The size reamer will depend on the difference between the OD of the new kingping, and the ID of the new bushings. What I did was to fit my pins to the axles, and then took the spindles to a machineshop to have the bushings pressed and fitted to the pins. If I remember correctly the price of the parts was about $50, and the machine work about $25, but its been awhile. Mike

Thanks GB-the only guide that is warn is the #6 exhaust valve-I think my machinist is either going to ream in and put in a sleeve, or if he can get jost one-just replace the bad one. Probably going to need a new seat too. It looks like all the guides were all replaced during the last rebuild, even the water tube is new. Hope I can get a domed exhaust valve-if not I have a parts engine in my shop that I'll pop the head off to see if I can harvest one from. Mike

Good news-new tube must have been installed during the previous rebuild-on with the flushing and valve job! One more question, can the pan be dropped w/o lifting the engine? I''d like to clean that out too. Mike

Just pulled the valves out of the 52 to clean them up, and replace the burned one before starting the valve job. I notice that all of the exhausts are slightly domed, and not flat like the intakes. With the exception of #6 all have good looking faces, no knife edging and should be usable. Is this normal? Also-is there a way to tell if the water dist tube is in good shape w/o pulling the pump? I was planning on knocking the freeze plugs out and giving her a good flushing, but only want to deal w the water tube replacement if I have to. Comments/suggestions? Thanks-Mike

For those installing an interior w/o new window rubber-I've had excellent luck soaking and working in Armor All or any other preservative to soften up the rubber prior to installing the back panel. You'd be surprised how much life can be left in the old rubber. Mike

To remove the cylinders there should be two bolts on the back of each cylinder (behind the backing plate), as well as disconnecting the brakeline. You may want to soak those in your favorite penetrant for a couple of days before you put a wrench on them. I'm sure someone will jump in with the brake adjustment procedure w/o the tool. Mike

You can also try the antiquetruckclub.org What type of parts are you looking for?

Can anyone recommend a good source for replacement tubes? Are the ones that Roberts or Bernb sells metal or brass? I should probably be looking for a brass unit correct? Thanks-Mike

You can't get to the bearing adjustment nuts that need to be removed to pull the drum w/o first pulling the axles. The drums are heavy-and if possible when removing it you want to support it so that the inner seal doesn't get drug across the threads on the end of the axle tube-likewise for going back together. I don't have a flatbed scanner, but maybe someone here has a service manual that they can scan the disassembly process for you. Mike

My first shakedown cruise after working on the truck for a couple of years was less than legal but you couldn't pry the smile off my face. On the trip back a trooper saw me and followed me down our road in right into the driveway. I could hear my wife saying I told ya so, but he was a truck nut-had a PH himself and was looking for a glovebox cover-needless to say he left with one! I gotta say that waiting in line at the DMV behind a guy that just got out of prison and was just looking for a photo id so that he could buy beer made me nervous-but all is well that ends well.

Thanks Austinsailor. Mike

The lugs are probably LH, but the axle bolts should be right hand (lefty loosey-righty tighty)

Sorry to post this as I'm sure it exists someplace on the board but I couldn't find it. Can anyone here please id my engine s/n TI46-23984. Need to order some parts and I'm not sure what I have. Thanks-Mike Fowler

If you're talking the rears, the axle has to be pulled out of the hub (6-8 bolts on the alxe cap in the center of the rim). After you take the nuts off, there are two threaded holes opposite each other on the axle end that you thread 5/16" bolts into to get the alxe pulled away from the hub. Once the axle is out, there is a threaded lock nut, a lock ring, and then the bearing adjustment nut to remove and then the whole drum/hub assembly comes off as a unit. You will want to shove a rag in the axle tube after you pull the axle shaft out to keep the gear oil from leaking. There's a thread on this somewhere on this board about the proper way to adjust the bearings when reassembling. Mike

Mine had a piece of rubber about 1" thick heavy foam rubber that went on top of the tank over the neck, and fit between the top of the tank and the cab floor. My parts truck had a piece made out of an old mudflap. Mike

Charles-I have a steering shaft tube with the column shift linkage in a parts truck (I believe it is complete), I also have the transmission out of that truck but I've never driven it so I don't know what condition its in, but when I towed it to where I parked it, all 3 fwd gears did work to turn the engine over while towing. I'm in NY state. PM me if I can be of help. Mike

I went to several known hardware stores to get a copy made and none had any blanks. I finally stumbled across an old locksmith that had 1 blank in stock that made my copy. He said if he didn't have the blank hanging on the wall that he'd be able to get it-I'd try that route. Look for a guy with graying hair and a pot belly that's been doing locks for awhile. Mike

Good commercial-could have been longer!

Good morning. I believe that the overflow tank is designed for a pressurized cooling system-which our flathead vehicles do not have. Since the system isn't sealed-it wouldn't be able to create a vacuum to draw the fluid in the overflow tank back into the cooling system if and when needed. The overflow tube's purpose is to get rid of excess coolant that would otherwise boil out the cap and cover the engine once it "hit the fan". If I'm wrong-someone here will surely correct me. Just my 2 cents. Mike

I pulled the head on the 52 1 ton today-very low compression in #6 cylinder. I expected to find a burned and eroded exhaust valve, what I found was the valve almost appeared that it had been scored by a chisel in different places. Whoever did the engine over before I got the truck (15 yrs ago) was the last person to have the head off. It developed what sounded like a miss this summer and only had about 35 lbs on #6. Also-does the head gasket indicate leakage between cyls 1&2, and 2&3? The gasket was put on dry and came off in 1 piece. Thanks-Mike

Welcome to "the other side of the tracks". This is a good place to be-lots of helpful folks here, lots of advise, and some good natured busting. When you take your truck to a show or cruise-you'll be surprised at the attention it gets just due to its uniqueness, and you probably won't see another one just like yours for awhile. Good luck-keep us posted on your progress. Mike