MBF

It's the little dogs that bite ya! Many years ago when I was in forklift school at the RAYMOND factory one of the bugs they put in was to place of clear tape over the battery connector. After 20 minutes of checking fuses and continuity-well just say its a lesson well learned!

Offended?? A little levity along with some lifting and separating is a good thing.

Dutch-that'd be the perfect truck to fill that Pilot-house void you're currently experiencing. Mike

Pilot house on the cover, and one of the features. We have arrived! Mike

Another way to do this is 2 take 2 five pound hammers. Use one to back up the eye of the spindle arm, and the other one on the opposite side of the arm smack it squarely on the eye (not on the housing on the joint you're trying to remove, or the threaded portion). I've personally seen this work on large trucks when a pickle fork failed. Its pops the arm right out of the tapered housing. Sometimes it takes more than one persuasive whack. You need the hammers to be 180 degrees from each other. Bigger truck will require bigger hammers. Mike

That looks to be a nice solid truck. Should be an easy sell to the little lady. I've driven in my drive with old tractors, a cabover Mack, and other stuff that didn't come in under its own power. That one would be an easy one!

Once you get the manifold sections separated I'd suggest heating the manifold housing (threaded boss) around each broken bolt to a red glow and then get on it with a vice grip or wrench if you've welded nuts on the broken bolts. I did this with mine on the advice of my machinist after breaking one of the bolts off. They all came out easily. The theory being the cast heats up at a different rate than the bolts. Mike

You can use a ballast resistor in line to the fan motor if you can't find a 12V replacement. (did that w my 52 Dodge, and 36 Plym years ago). If you have the externally bypassed thermostat housing-you can put a petcock/valve on the bypass housing to shut off the flow of water to the heater circuit. You may have problems using a headlight switch to control blower motor since it has a built in circuit breaker and there really isn't a resistor in either of the ON positions of the switch circuit to control the motor speed. Mike

I'd venture a guess here that the overly rich condition is what is preventing pinging w 8 degrees initial timing. It's interesting that you have such a situation with the lean condition that can be created by the addition of a PCV system (depending on where the PCV vacuum source is). Are you running the PCV line to a vacuum port on the intake or to the air cleaner? If you have excessive blowby could that be creating the rich mixture situation? Just thinking out loud- Mike

The pedal seals from Roberts will slip over the pedals from the top. I just used a little Armor All on mine and worked it in. Also-make sure there are no rust scaps on either the pedal proper or the sharft so that you don't tear them. Mike

Hi temp silicone sealant. A light beed around the pumpkin and the cover should suffice. Make sure the mating surfaces are oil free and clean. Mike

I could live in one of those! The Mrs would probably have a different idea about that though. That is a sharp looking vehicle. Mike

Is it an internally regulated alternator or does it require an external regulator? Make sure you disconnect the gas guage until you have the proper type of resister installed or you'll fry the guage in a heartbeat-learned that first hand when I thought I had everything covered. You don't have a switch on for a fan or wiper, lights etc that could make you think you have a short? Mike

The bolt pattern for the transmissions are different between the two so you can't use a 4 spd b/h on a 3 spd or vice versa. Mike

Been there done that. I'd take the spindles to a machine shop with your nylon bushings and have him press out the old brass ones and press in the nylon ones so that they can be reamed to fit the king pins. Im pretty sure the thrust bearings are going to be needed to make the spindle fit correctly on the axle eyes regardless of the bushing materials used. I don't think there should be any play between the pin and the axle eyes, but I had a tiny bit in mine when I did it about 15 yrs ago. I've heard stories by some that the nylon bushings last longer than brass, and the other way around too! Since these trucks aren't being used like they used to be it shouldn't make a lot of difference. If I'm wrong, someone will correct me here. Mike

I'm with 4mula-dlx. The blue crimp on single female connectors are readily available and work just fine (that's what I used). If you ever have to replace the switch down the road it'll be a lot easier. Mike

You may want to just use new hardware and never seize all of them-it'd be cheaper than SS hdwr. And you wouldn't want to deprive the next generation of busted knuckles or keep them from exercising of their mechanic's vocabulary would you?

Nice job! That protrusion may be for an internally bypassed cooling setup-I can't remember for sure, and I had mine apart last winter. If I recall correctly, my head gasket also had a protrusion that stuck out past the front of the head about quarter inch or so-I'll have to check. One thing for sure-these old flatties are a lot easier to put a head back on single handedly than the slant 6 I rebuilt in my pickup! Mike

If I remember correctly on the original switch the parking light position only turned on the the tail lights-to hook up the front parking lights and make them work I put the front parks on the taillamp post too. The dome light had a separate toggle switch on the lamp housing. As long as it works and the breaker is good-you should be good to go with that switch. Mike

I bought a 3.9 out of a junkyard last year for $90. So I know that they're still out there. I kept the one that I replaced as a parts source in case the one that I bought doesn't pan out. Been ok for over a year now. If you're not going to be doing much heavy hauling you may increase your odds of finding one look for something a bit later (1950-68) from something out of a v-8 1 ton. It may give you a higher ratio, and there were a lot of fire departments that used the D300 as a brush or mini pumper. Good hunting! Mike

It is a PCV- Pink Colored Vehicle definitely not to my taste-but to each their own.

Dutch, as soon as you sell the last PH item, you know you're going to find a truck! Mike

My 36 Plymouth has a vacuum advance, but the 49 1 ton does not, but my 53 parts truck has the remnants of 1. Weird! Mike

Wow Steve-looking GOOOD! Here's my 6 yr old Rustoleum job that seems to be holding up well. Even I don't look good when you get closer than 10', but like the truck I'm okay from a distance.

Nice personal simple touch that gives the truck its own unique identity. Mike