MBF

Nice looking job. Got any more pictures? Mike

Yup-if you've got the horizontal guages centered in the dash its a 48-50. Mike

I had a 49 Ford F-5 years ago that I traded for the 49 1 ton I have now. That truck had the 5 hole Budds but rotten tires. I went to a junkyard and they had a late 60's IH that just had new tires put on and I bought all 6 for I I think $150. The rims were in excellent shape. That was about 15 yrs ago. I do know of a yard/crusher that a guy recently bought six 22.5 almost new radials on Dayton rims for $150. The guys crushing big trucks don't want the tires so they let them go cheap to avoid disposal fees. Check around. Mike

That link jogged my memory. Those Kaiser jeeps made during the late 60's and 70's had the same 6 lug bolt pattern as our 1 tons. The ones that I've looked at didn't have a deep enough offset to be used in a dual application, but they look good as a single. Those rims should be available from a surplus house. I talked to a guy at a military show and he had 2 NOS rims that he's sell me, but I can't find his name or number. Mike

Here's an excellent link to a manual on a Carter BBD. I printed a copy and keep it as a reference. Mike http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/docs/BBD_Manuals.pdf There is also a lot of technical info on tuning this carb on: http://www.slantsix.org/

Austinsailor: I'd be very interested in what you find with this. The box in my 49 is loose. I dismantled a tight setup from a 51 parts truck and kept the sector, bushings, and bearings (the shaft was cut off so when they removed the cab). I also have a known good box from a 52 that I was planning on installing, but I believe the mounts are slightly different. The column has a much more vertical orientation in my 49 than the one in the 51. The column support brackets that support the column at the bottom of the dash are different too. I was hoping that someone had a parts manual and could check and see if the p/n's are the same for the box internals-that should tell us it this will work. It'd sure save a lot of work rebuilding the column in the truck. Please keep us posted. Mike

I've heard that you can buy the bearing and spider gear kits from Vintage Power Wagons for the rear. I had one that had a lot of slop in it and drove it like that for over 10 yrs. The gears were in good shape, but it needs bearings. I found another center section in a junkyard for $75.00 and put it in as a "temporary" replacement while I rebuilt the original. That was about 3 yrs ago. I guess I better get motiviated. I'm going to build and set it on the bench and then swap it in when its done. Mine is a 3:89. Mike

From the pic it looks like he's got the std 3 spoke wheel (the one designed for the round center horn button). I wonder if the hub on the wheel is too thick to work with the spoked chrome ring which was designed to use with the Y shaped wheel. The bottom of the ring may be bottoming out on the face of the steering wheel center before it makes the ground. The wheels designed for the horn ring have a cutout lip around the center of the ring. Just something to think about or try. A way to verify this is to make the ground w/o the ring and see if the horn works. Mike

Here's a couple I've seen at antique truck shows. Mike

That's what I did w mine. If the rust jacking isn't too bad, and you're not going to be hauling with it-its just cosmetic. Mike

Wow-those pictures are exactly what I've always thought Heaven should look like. No bugs, snakes or other critters to mess up your day. Just eternal picking of rustfree parts at a reasonable cost. Mike

I was glad to see someone suggest the burn clean method. That was told to me over 40 yrs ago by an old mechanic. The same process works for cleaning out the draft tube. And Don is right, the oil filler cap is the air filter and intake for the draft tube or PCV venting of the crankcase. Wish it were warm enough outside to have beer here-it'd be good to have a good fire going in the driveway to stay warm. Mike

I've got one of those that came off my truck when I bought it. Thinkin' about putting it back on because its period correct. Mike

I don't have any pictures, but a 52 1/2 ton parts truck I have had one. The previous owner stuck pipes in all 4 stake pockets, and welded a 2" angle iron between the 2 front, and 2 rear verticals. He gusseted them at the top for added strength. The height of the horizontal pieces was just above the peak of the cab. Mike

Not to rain on anyone's parade, but its a running core until proven otherwise. I bought a 6 cyl Chevy years ago to replace a worn out motor in a pickup. Supposedly had less than 100 miles on the rebuild-freshly painted block, looked real clean. Installed it and it ran for a week. When we pulled it apart we found a huge amount of rust and pitting inside. Went back to the seller, and he went back to the guy that he bought it from. Yes it had been rebuilt, but it sat underwater for awhile before it was rescued from a farmer's pond. If he wants a lot more than 3-500 consider rebuilding a known core. Buyer beware. Mike

My local NAPA dealer has a display of cut open filters showing the difference of the internal filter media, checkvalves, etc. Of course the NAPA brand looks noticably better quality. I think they're using their "Gold" line comparing it to other brands middle lines. One thing that does stick out and its been discussed on the slant six forum is their check valve setup that prevents the filter drainback and having to have the pump refill the filter each time the engine is started after sitting. That is especially important if you're using a filter in an inverted position. I've heard stories about orange filters on several different forums, and from the display, it looks like they might be true. I wonder what the longevity of these old flatties would be with the newer formulated oils, and a full flow filter system, with a modern PCV system. Hell-they may even get to like the taste of synthetics. Mike

Another thing to check is for wear when the roll pin goes through the collar on the steering column (the shift lever pivots on this rollpin). I had to knock out the roll pin and then drill the collar and shift arm to accept a larger pin. Wow, another PH guy w a 78 D100. What are the chances? Mike

What type of coolant was in it when you drained it? It looks like it may have had a head or gasket problem with cyls 5&6. If you wanted to just get it running to see what you've got you could try cleaning up the cylinders lightly, but I'd clean the block surface carefully check it with a straightedge (along with the head). If you don't want to pull the water pump and check the water distribution tube I'd pull the drain plug out of the block and start flushing the water jacket and wiring it out through the coolant passages in the block to get rid of as much crud as possible. I'll bet you're going to have to go through this engine, but a 1/2 day's work should get it running so at least you can see whacha got. Good luck, and keep us posted. Mike

Make sure that you have heavy enough cables if you're doing 6 volts (welding cable or better). The amp draw with 6 volts is double that of 12V. The way the starter pedal works is that the first part of the travel on the pedal engages the bendix, and when almost fully engaged, the next part of the travel closes the switch to spin the starter. FYI- I've had similar problems w 6 volts (especially those sold by NAPA). A battery starts to deteriorate as soon as the electrolyte is added whether its used or not. Since there isn't a lot of demand for 6V batteries anymore, the shelf life is probably a lot greater than their 12V counterparts. Mike-

Yup, that'd do it! Must be an aftermarket switch you have. Mike

Dutchmeister, do you have a foot starter pedal on that or a solenoid activated through the key. To make your ignition hot you need to connect the BAT and IG (coil) leads. If you have a solenoid activated starter, you bridge from BAT to ST to engage the starter, otherwise just step on the pedal. Mike

You can't mix DOT3 and DOT5 fluids. The mixture will destroy rubber parts. When switching from one to the other, Wagner suggested a complete flush and replacement of all rubber parts. This is according to a RAYMOND factory service bulletin published a few years ago. I'm not sure if that is causing your problem, but if you have run DOT3 in the past in that system, it may be something to look at. Mike

What a nice find. Mike

Barry, check ebay. I've seen both the 3 speed and 4 speed transmission covers listed from time to time. You can tell which 4 speed you have by looking at the drain plug (help me out here guys-I'm not sure if I have this right or not). If the drain plug is angled you have the syncronized 4 speed, if its straight-you have the clashbox. Mike

His engineering and fabrication skills seem about equal. Hope you can find another rim.