MBF

Looks like something that should be full of clowns at a circus. Fugly aint even close.

Boy-if that was closer-I'd sell mine and jump on that. Here's one that is closer to those of us on the east coast. http://www.wantaddigest.com/forsale/wantad.asp?onlineid=AQILW04&adid=A00013&classifieds=Classic*Dodge&eclass2=Classic%20Cars

Gotta love that crazy old man stuff! What Greg said about registering a vehicle in NY is right-don't ask me how I know. I'll bet its either be recabbed, or someone switched tags perhaps to register it as a half ton to save $$ on the registration. I can't even imagine who would even think of doing anything like that but if one were to think of something like that they must also have been considering something like: "Who in the DMV or what cop is gonna know the difference?" I've got a road ranger button on my 3 speed's shift lever. I got stopped once in a routine DWI check. The cop shined his light in and asked how I got a big truck transmission in such a small truck. I told him with a screwdriver (the hoseclamp is what hold the button on the shift lever. He laughed, and then waved me through. As long as the tag and the reg matches, you should be good to go. Sometimes if the reg is unreadable or the person behind the counter wants to exert their authority they will want to see a rubbing of the tag especially if it hasn't been registered in a long time. Mike

That is a nice looking truck. Does it have helper springs in the back? Looks like someone may have put a Power Wagon bed on a B series. In any event, I like it. Mike

Jim, I'm not sure what the diameter is, but you may find a sediment bowl gasket from a small engine would be close. NAPA sells those. Mike

Mike-I've got a set of latch handles. May even have the shoulder bolts on a vent from a parts truck. PM me if you're interested. Mike F

Yup-mine too. On both the parts and my restored trk. Choke is 2nd from right, throttle on right side. Mike

The points gap makes a tremendous difference. I once had a guy bring me a Gravely with a Kohler 14 horse that he insisted needed a motor job. It had no power at all, and would barely rev. I did a compression check and it was right within specs. Went through the carb, and lastly the ignition system. Found the points were only opening about 4-5 thousandths. Replaced the points and set the gap-ran like a brand new engine. He was real happy with the bill and the turnaround time. Mike

You can't put the seal on the spindle and then install the hub. The seal has to be seated within the hub. I'd carefully remove the hub and inspect the seal, and then measure the inner diameter of the rubber portion of the seal, and the outer diameter of the spacer. They should be really close. From the pictures to me it appears that the metal housing of the seal (not the inner actual seal) is coming into contact with the outer suface of the spacer and not allowing the seal and inner bearing to be fully seated on the spindle. If you're leaving tire marks, and if things move when you jack it off the wheels something is way out of whack. Mike

Are you sure you have the right seal for that spacer? In the first picture it doesn't look like the hub is on all the way. If the tapered bearings are being properly clamped together by the spindle nut, the excess play will allow the top of the wheels to lean inward as soon as its on the ground. I'd jack it and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and see if there is excessive play. Mike

I used armor all or soap on the ones I purchased from Roberts. They easily slid over the ped pad. Its a lot less work that way than trying to remove those pedals. I just bought a parts truck that was on a farm at one time. The owner took heavy leather belting and wrapped it around the pedal shaft, then fastened it with a stitch of wire coat hanger! Necessity is a mother..... Mike

Thanks Folks. Greatly appreciate the help. Mike

I think its just based on the type and manufacturer of the cannister. From experience, I think the sock type may offer more filter area. I remember ads in Popular Mechanics (when I was a kid) that you buy a filter that used rolls of toilet paper. Not too sure how that worked out, but I know of one guy that tried this in a sock type cannister and ruined a good engine as the pieces of paper got in the engine. I can say that during the early 70's I successfully used sanitary napkins in a sock type cannister in my 53 Chevy when I could no longer get the cartridges. Mike

Before I take this apart to replace the wheel cyls (ordered today) I found that I also have a leaky inner seal. I have the p/n for the outer and a new one on the shelf. Does anyone know what the p/n is for the inner on a 1 ton? Tx. Mike

I've been searching the forum for these. Are the Raybestos p/n's 3595, and 3596 the p/n's for the rear cyls? Anyone have a source? Just came home from a truck show on Sunday and saw my left rear was leaking-I was going to sleeve them this winter, but I don't want to cripple it before the show season is over so I guess I'll replace them. I found my notes from '98 and they've been honed and had the rubbers replaced, so it's time. Thanks. Mike

I had the same problem. If I remember correctly, a little penetrating oil on the pivot, and through the vacuum connection-work by hand and then hook up to a vacuum source. It may take a few times. If that still doesn't help, there are folks that rebuild these. They're usually pretty trouble free. Sounds like you need a new control knob. Mike

Thanks Hank-I read through all the posts you listed. How much more difficult is it to remove the steering box with the wheel attached? The one I removed from the parts truck was easy because I cut out what was left of the rotted floor with a heat wrench. Can it be done by removing the 2 bolt in floor pieces w/o removing the wheel? I don't have the type of puller right now to remove the original 3 spoke std wheel. The column I'm putting in had the wheel removed, and I did the V spoked wheel over a few years ago. I'm eventually planning on putting my standard wheel on the replacement column after I get that fixed and painted. Thanks - Mike

Sailor-thanks. I'm going to clean up and prep the box and column and get it ready to install.

I bought a '52 parts truck. One of the pieces that I havested was the steering box. I have play in the one in my 52 that I can't adjust out. The 49 has a spacer bracket from the outer frame rail that the box mounts to. The 52 had a different corner stiffener than the earlier styly that that box mounts to. Are these two boxes interchangable if I use the 52 box w the 49 bracket will that work? If neither or those work, are the internals (sector shaft, steering shaft, bushings, etc) the same? I'm thinking I may end up swapping just the guts into my old housing. Mike

To set them accurately you're going to have to set them hot after the engine has run awhile and has heat soaked. Like a previous poster said-the valves will seat in. You'll need a set of valve adjusting wrenches (makes the job easier along with a set of mechanic's gloves) and to remove the inner fender housing, but it is do able. A pain for a contortionist, but it is doable. Better to go through the process of adjusting them hot than to burn a valve. Mike

Too bad its so far away...from me anyways Mike

Got a buddy that has one. Even though he speaks Ford and I speak Dodge we're still able to communicate for the most part, but he does speak with a funny accent! I'll probably see him at a cruise in tonight-I'll grab some pics. Mike

You may want to try removing the dust band on the generator and blowing it out w compressed air. Then check to make sure that the commutator is not badly oxidized, and that then look at the brushes and springs to make sure that they're making good contact with the comm. Congratulations on bringing another one back to life. Mike

Make sure you disconnect the fuel guage at the back of the guage before you turn on the key. Same with any 6 volt radio. Mike

Ditto on what Dave said. I just bought a parts complete parts truck for much less than half of what he's asking. The 6 tires, and wood on the body would have to be removed before the scrapper wanted it. W prices where they are today, I guess these guys just want clean stuff. A friend of mine bought 6 almost new 10R-22.5 tires for $150 from a scrapper-they don't want to pay disposal charges. Mike