MBF

When I first bought my truck in the 90's NAPA was able to get both the front and rear studs that were missing. Take a sample with you-they had a hardcopy catalog that they matched by size, not application. Mike

Guys, my 78 Dodge D100 has a similar oversized nut with an ear on it to allow you to use a lug wrench through the ear to undo the spare. Might be something to think about. That and a little anti seize and you're good to go. Mike

I can verify that the internals are the same. I just swapped in some better parts from a '52 1/2 ton into my '49 1 ton this Saturday. Your story about the bracket breaking is causing me some concern. All of the bolts are tight, but there is still a very slight deflection when rocking the wheel back and forth. That's why I posted the question about the brace that I saw on a larger truck this past fall. Mike

Thanks Viking. I was looking for a replacement for my 6 volt. Mike

So this must have just been a feature on the heavier trucks until they did the engineering change to lengthen the bracing from the front cross member to the left frame rail, and mount the box to the extended brace. I don't have a picture, if anyone else does that'd be great. Mike

Happy New Years fellow Ph'er's. I've got a question I've been meaning to ask. While looking at a converted 1950 PH firetruck last fall, I noticed a brace on the neck of the steering column that appeared to be factory installed. There was a steel ring that clamped on the neck of the box, welded to a tubular bar that went under the oil pan to the right side framerail. This was on the box design that used the bolted on bracket, instead of the later design that bolted directly to the updated factory brace from the front crossmember to the left frame rail. Has anyone seen one of these on smaller trucks, and were they an option? I noticed slight movement in my steering box after swapping in used parts yesterday. A similar brace would fix that problem. Thanks. Mike

Yup-talk to you folks next year. Have a Happy! Mike

I'm assuming you removed the lockbolt in the front of the axle on each king pin. Usually once they start moving you can go the rest of the way with either a BFH or a press. I just did a front axle swap in my 52, and had new pins put in the axle. I removed the steering knuckles-you've got to pull the bottom 2 bolts that go through the spindle and backing plate anyway. When you get your new pins, measure their fit in the axle eyes. If they're loose, you'll have to go oversized pins, and have the eyes reamed so that they fit snugly within the axle. On both of my axles there were bearings on the botton side, and shims on the top side. Hope this helps. Mike

I just did the brakes on my 52 1 ton. Cylinders were about $48 ea from NAPA, and the rubber lines were about 18 bucks each. I would say if you're doing the work yourself, you should be get away with about half of your brake budget. Looks like a lot of progress going on there. Good luck with it. Mike

A long time ago someone told me that the parking lenses from an older Jeep CJ (5-7) will work for the 51-53's. I bought a NOS lense and ring at a truck flea market a few years ago for $3.00. The guy had them listed as a Jeep CJ part, but I knew what they were. Mike

The foot starter on my '36 Plymouth has the same amount of travel as the one in the 52 truck, but has a completely different type of linkage. I like to mess with people when they're looking at my truck, and while talking to them through the window with both hands on the wheel just quietly step on the starter and have it start. I get some pretty puzzled looks! Mike

My 39 Dodge had that setup. I still have the starter / engine. PM me if you're interested. Mike

I also believe that mount is different to keep the cab located so that side to side or front to back movement doesn't overstress the steering column or pedal alignment in the floor. Just a guess. Mike

That's really great customer service from Roberts. They're always friendly when you call. I like the fact that they keep your projects in their database so when you call to order something, they know what you're working on. Mike

Happy Thanksgiving. Do you have any free travel at the top of your clutch pedal? You should have 3/4" to 1 ". If there is no free travel, your clutch may just need adjustment. You can also go underneath and try to rotate the linkage by hand at the pivot (towared the pedal up position). The throwout bearing or clutch linkage may be hanging up on something and not allowing it to fully engage. Good luck-let us know what you find. Mike

Happy Thanksgiving to all. We all have a great deal to be thankful for. Mike

I was thinking of using the spray on foam on the roof, but after seeing what that did to the Dodge Bighorn cabs as far as rust I changed my mind. I made my door panels and rear window surround by using 1/4" foam signboard backing, to glue the vinyl material to. I just did the kick panels using 1/4" luan as backing in case they actually got kicked. This past weekend I removed the torn pieces of cardboard from the firewall, and used Eastwood's brand of Dynamat I used 4 of the 5 sheets that I bought for that project. To hide the silver face, I painted it with a rubberized undercoating. For the roof, I'm going to spray the inner roof with some type of sound deadener, and then make my own panels using the luan again for the main pieces, and the quarter inch foam backing for the over the door panels. It isn't perfect, but it's much better than it was, and every piece that I add lowers the decibel level inside. It's getting quiet enough that my wife may ride in it! I'll try o post some pics of my progress so far. Mike

Paul, if you take your old knuckles to a NAPA, they may be able to match them up from their measurements. Same thing with the axle post for the lower shock mount. I'm going to be replacing my axle once I get the king pins in the new one, but that is going to be awhile. If you can't find anything for the posts, send me a pm, and I'll let you know when I'm ready to make the swap. Mike

Boy that truck looks prety damn good just the way that it is. Just my opinion. Mike

I have a couple of spares in a box on a shelf in my garage. I'll check tomorrow to see if they're lamintated. I've got to believe that by this stage that all US automotive glass was of the safety type. I'll post again tomorrow after I look. Mike

Just replaced the rears on my 52 1 ton. They were stepped. Got them from NAPA. They're different left to right, but the front and the rears use the same cylinders. Mike

I had a 39 Dodge with a 5 & 2. Wasn't an overdrive just an additional low gear (lower than the normal 1st speed creeper gear). Sure was fun to drive though with the 2 spd (lever shifted) but it wasn't any faster than a 4 spd. 5th must have been 1:1 . Still have the engine and trans. Mike

Mine have the ridges on my 52. I noticed a short set for the 1/2 to 1 ton on Ebay today. Didn't look too bad, also saw a set of the short ones for the larger trucks too. Mike

I think you want to keep the system open (no continuity) when the vehicle isn't being driven. The starter is dead until the switch is closed by stepping on the pedal although the post on the starter is hot all the time. It's the hot side for all of the accessories and ignition. I've used the green knobbed type disconnect, and a bettery disconnect on the ground side of the battery on all my old stuff - trucks, car, and tractors. A contactor or solenoid setup would work too, but they you've still got the control circuitry the solenoid that has to remain hot. Mike

The Wed before Halloween I was mowing the lawn in a t shirt. Day before Halloween 10+ inches of snow and the leaves are still on the trees. November 8th-mowing lawn in t-shirt, raking leaves, and raking stones back in driveway from storm. Have a new furnace in the garage-already been used twice. I'm hoping this is like the generator saga. Before we had it and the house wired, lost power frequently, soon as we got it and had it wired in-haven't lost power for more than a couple of hours at a time. Spring is just around the corner, but the corner is a long ways up the road. Mike