MBF

I agree with DodgeB4YA. I've got a 4.3 in my 1 ton. Cruises at about 45-50 indicated, haven't had it past 55, but I'm also one that believes that cruising anything faster than what it was designed for you'll be out of brakes and steering. I'd like to find a 3.9 just to hopefully slow down the engine a bit while on a longer trip, and to improve mileage, but for what I use it for-which is mainly shows and cruises, she'll be fine. I went out with it yesterday to see how much my interior kit improved the noise inside-very pleased. Mike

Boy-does this bring back memories! Another spot for antiseize compound when you're going back together.

Welcome! Nice looking truck. How come all the guys that are new to the forum are starting with trucks better than we did? Mike

If you're not afraid of a challenge, do what the others suggested. Before you take anything apart, you may want to mark the housing and the ends (although the generator may have dowel pins in it so it only goes back together one way). Disassemble both for a cleaning. On both pieces I'd remove the armature and clean the commutators (the segmented brass section that the brushes made contact with) with a piece of crocus (sp?) cloth and check for wear / scoring. Then I'd check the brushes to make sure that their not cracked or extremely worn. Replace if necessary Lube and free up the brush holders and make sure the springs are providing good tension to hold the brushes against the commutators. Lube the front bushing of the starter, and put a dab of grease on the bendix threads so that the starter gear can slide freely. After you get the starter back together, you can bench test it with a battery pack or battery and jumpers -but hang on to it if it runs, the torque will make it try to roll over. On the generator, if its working properly, it should run like an electric motor when current is applied (as long as it doesn't have a cutout relay mounted on it). If you get into trouble, someone here will surely be able to talk you through it.

Wow-does that look familar. I just busted up the masonite and burned it. I had the same problem-it wasn't flexible enough which is why I bought the sheet of 1/4" luan to use as my backing material. I used the cardboard template to locate the two screw holes that hold up the roof panel, and then transferred the wholes from the cardboard to my luan-I didn't know how to find them with the luan, because you can't fell the standoffs with the stiffer material. One thing you may want to do, that I didn't and wish that I had. Before you cover your backing material with the fabric, fit and secure all of your pieces with whatever fasteners you're going to use. I found that after I added the material to my patterns, that there was enough of a dimensional change that the door surrounds didn't fit properly, and I ended up remaking the passenger side. Better to make your adjustments with the backing material, because once the material is attached, there is no going back. Still haven't done the back panel, but it'll be done long before spring gets here. If you've driven the truck before, you won't believe the difference in the noise level this makes. Anxious to see pics of the finished product. Mike

When I did the valve job on my 230 two years ago, I took a couple of the valves to an engine builder/machine shop. He measured both and was able to get me the intakes, exhausts, and guides. I saw what he was ordering from, it wasn't a NAPA type catalog for application, it was a sizing type catalog that showed just dimensions. You may want to try that route. Mike

10-4 on the anti seize. I use it on everything that is potentially going to need to be disassembled at a later date. I've got a pint of kroil that a friend gave me 6-8 yrs ago. Still have way over half of it left, and I've used it a lot. It has the type container with the built in applicator brush. Both the anti-seize and kroil will go a long long way if used the way it was designed. Watch me knock over the can this weekend and have to eat my words. Mike

To check out the function of the sending unit you can hook it up to an analog ohm meter as you move the float. If the unit is working properly you should see a smooth sweep of the needle on the meter throughout the travel range of the float. If you get a smooth sweep, check for a grounded wire between the sending unit and guage. Mike

There was an article in a publication a short time ago (Busted Knuckles?)addressing the reduction of ZDDP in today's oils. It said that there has been a reduction in ZDDP to eliminate damage to catalytic converters, but the amount left is still in excess of what was used when these engines were designed and built. A local race engine builder requires an additive for newly rebuilt engines (race and street) for the break in period to run in the cam, and then recommends using a good quality multi viscosity oil from that point on. Just something elst to be confused about. Mike

I just replaced the sector shaft in my box-I'm pretty sure there are 4 indexed grooves in the shaft. I centered my wheel so that the front wheels were straight, pulled the pitman arm, and replaced the shaft and lower bearings. I ran the steering wheel lock to lock and counted the total number of turns, divided by 2 to center the wheel and reattached the pitman arm. I used some neverseize on the sector shaft splines in case I have to take it apart again. I just used a jaw type puller on mine. Mike

Here's what I did w mine after a fruitless search for housings. I used the original hoops and lenses, and mounted them directly to the front body panel. I had to buy lamp fixtures and riveted them to the inside of the dimples. Mike

I'd first check to make sure no accessories (electric wipers?) are turned on to see if that eliminates the problem. Then check the voltage regulator, heater blower switch and headlight switch to see if you can feel what is clicking. I had a pinched wire on my body lights that caused a similar problem a few years ago. Has someone added any accessories (fan, lights, radio?) I'd sure leave one batt terminal disconnected until I was sure the problem was fixed. Let us know what you find. Mike

If you're going to try priming-you've got to spin the engine while doing it or you'll just hydraulically bind up the pump-unless your bearings are badly worn. The staggered oil passages need to line up in order for oil to pump through the engine. You can do this with a breaker bar on the crank pulley, or if you've got the spark plugs out-probably grab hold of the fan and turn the engine from that. Mike

When I was 5 I remember sitting on Dad's lap and steering shifting his 53 Chevy (still have that car-came home from the hospital in it-son is restoring it) to my grandparents house about 5 miles away. I learned to use the pedals on a Model A doodlebug when I was six. Dad attached 2x4 blocks to the pedals so I could reach them. He worked for NY telephone, and had a 52 Dodge company truck that he brought home at night in case he was called out. I drove that around the driveway until I got good enough to put it in the garage at night. I aint been right since. Mike

The locking ring style are fine. I've run tubed radials on them on a tractor trailer w/o a problem. I found 6 of the 5 hole rims (locking ring) w good usable tires for about $125 several years ago. They're out there, ya just gotta find them. Inspect each rim carefully-make sure that the centers aren't rust jacked from the hoops near the rivets. Check that the face of the locking ring and the groove aren't badly rusted or damaged and that the locking ring is squarely seated. People confuse the widow makers with the locking ring style. If you do find some of the 22.5 drop centers in your bolt pattern, make sure that the hoop will fit over your drums and not have such a deep offset that it contacts the rear springs. Mike

I just bought new cyls for my truck from NAPA. About $50.00 ea which is about the cost of having them sleeved through a reputable supplier. With very light pitting you can sometimes get away with honing and a rebuild, but why chance it. The rebuild kits are $10.00 plus your time. Mike

Try Universal Tire's website. Another source is a scrapper that handles big trucks. Sometimes they get stuff in with the size you're looking for and want to get rid of them so that they don't have to pay a disposal fee. Just as an FYI, the 5 hole Budds were used on Fords and IH's up through the early 60's. Mike

Ditto. A good quality 10-40 in the 52 Dodge, and 36 Plymouth.

NAPA has the wheel cyls. I just bought 'em over Thanksgiving. They have the brake lines too. Mike

I think what he meant was that the steering box (as a complete unit) won't bolt up to your chassis. Since the internals are all the same (I can verify that from the work I did last weekend) the outer tube with the shift lever should slip over your steering shaft and clamp onto your existing box. That is what I believe I have in the parts truck-just the tube. I used the sector shaft and bearings during my repair last weekend. It should also use the shaft support you have under your dash. Mike

I can't answer the trans question, but I do think I have a steering column tube that has the shift linkage on it-I'll have to check a parts truck. I also have the underdash handle assembly for the parking brake (at least the portion that mounts under the dash. As far as the wipers, I think the 48-50 were the same, but the 51-53 used a different mounting position on the cowl. Sounds like a great father son project. Mike

There was a guy that had a cabover 56 Ford on ebay with adapters that he had made converting the 5 hole 20's to 10 hole 22.5 Budd rims. It didn't look that good, you could see the adapters and lugs through the ventholes in the rims. 10-20's are getting expensive, and if you've got the old 3 pc widow makers vs the locking ring type you've got to find some type of alternative. I've seen some drop center 20's w 5 lugs at some truck shows, but then you've got to make sure that the center portion of the rim will clear the rear drums on the inside duals. Same problem exists for the 16" Budds on the 1 tons. Mike

Paul. I did it in several steps. I used dynamat 1 foot squares on the roof, inner kick panels, and on the rear of the cab just behind both doors. Then I made a cardboard template for the roof headliner (so that I could locate the two mounting standoffs on the roof) and side panels. I then transferred those pattern to pieces of 1/4" luan cut just a 1/4" larger all the way around so that I had some extra to cut off instead of being short. The luan is much less flexible than the cardboard, and I didn't want to be short. I trimmed up the luan, and then glued the cloth backed vinyl material to the luan using an aerosol contact cement on both the luan and the vinyl. After letting it dry for a day I installed it. If I had it to do over again, I would have gone 1/2 - 3/4 inch wider on the roof panel, but I'm ok with the way it is. The seat covers, door, and kick panels are all black, and I like it because it makes my goofups harder to see. The noise level in the cab is half what is was before I did all of this. I think the dynamat that I used on the inside of the firewall will also help w cab noise and inside temps during the coming summer. I can send a couple more pics tomorrow. Mike

The pic on the left is with the roof luan w/o the vinyl-final fitting before I glued on the vinyl. The 2nd picture is with the finished panel in place w vinyl. When I redo the rear panel, I'll leave the domelight centered over the rear window. I've got a door pocket attached underneath the rear window to hold vintage maps, and my logbook (from when I was driving over the road) and the handouts that I carry for the Antique Truck Club of America. DodgeB4YA-that expanded metal must make you impervious to sniper fire! Nice looking job. Mike

I am in the process of putting the finishing touches on mine. I started out last weekend making a corrugated template for the roof and side panels, and transferred that to 1/4" luan. I was concerned after all this work that the corrugated would start sagging. I used an aerosol contact cement to attach a piece of black vinyl to my patterns. I used 1/4" for foam for my door panels a couple of year ago which are holding up nicely. I need to redo the back of the cab around the rear window. I used the foam backing on that, but since the back portion of the roof panel is supported by the rear panel, it needs to have some structural support. My solution doesn't look 100% original, but it looks nice, and along with the dynamat that I used lowers the decibels by about half. I'll post more pics when I finish with the rear panel. Mike