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moparmonkey

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  • My Project Cars
    '53 Dodge B3B

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  • Biography
    First truck was a '53 B4B found on my parent's property. Been a mopar guy ever since.
  • Occupation
    Firefighter

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  • Location
    NorCal
  • Interests
    Old mopar's, old motorcycles, wrenching in general

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  1. I have a set I pulled off of a '55 C3, they're the same as the ones I have for my '53. Not sure if they were the same all the way to '62, but I'm pretty sure they were the same through '56.
  2. Sold for $209. At that price? I've seen the parking light surrounds by themselves sell for that much, although usually they go for around $100. Still, that's just the parking light surrounds, not even with the parking light assemblies. I'd say that was a really good buy for whoever got it. I don't think I've ever seen a complete set sold on the internet for less. Usually the parts are listed individually, and the sum would far exceed that price.
  3. They're about the same size as a big block. Although, other than the overall width, the big and small blocks aren't all that different. The height and length are within 1/2", but the big block is about 4" wider. As far as the 360, its EXACTLY the same size as a 273/318/340. Blocks are pretty much identical except for the passenger side engine mount. You should be able to mount it so that you don't have to cut the firewall, just depends on how you do it and what you choose to move, ie, the engine or the radiator. Here's a list of some common engine dimensions, the mopar small block, big block, early and late hemi's are all listed. engine dimensions.pdf
  4. Not compared to buying actual replacement lenses. On Ebay, the lenses alone usually fetch $40 to $50 each. Even from Robert's, they're $20 just for the lens. Considering you get the whole light- lens, trim ring, reflector etc, its a pretty good price. On eBay, the trim rings usually list for around $100 for a pair. If you need the whole set up, those are the way to go.
  5. Not my truck, but I saw this on Craigslist and thought I'd put it up here. Original "arden electric" work truck. Pretty cool utility bed on it, appears in decent enough shape. Original ad here http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/2800233945.html
  6. I recently found a '65 Polara at the local Pick-n-Pull, this was a 4 door but its a C-body like the sport fury's. Flange to flange you'll find the early C-bodies are 56 3/4", they're almost the same width as the E-body Challengers and 'Cuda's. They're usually a little wide for the 40's, the lend themselves better to mid to late 50's swaps. But, if its only a couple of inches wider you might be able to run it anyway depending on your wheel choice. Most rims nowadays have a much deeper backspace, which allows for a longer axle. An extra inch of backspace per side is usually pretty easy to come by, as long as you're not planning bone stock wheels. A lot of those cars had 11 drums, the 8.75" rear I pulled out of that Polara wore 11"x2" brakes. Pretty handy, and the parts are pretty valuable. But, the C-body's were more cruiser than musclecar, and the rear end ratio's are usually in the 2.76 to 3.23 range. With a 318 I would suspect freeway gears, but you never know. And if it isn't a single legger, it will be the more desirable clutch type sure-grip. Still, I think the 8.75" rear is one of the best out there. Easy gear changes, just swap the 3rd member. If you get an extra chunk or two, you can swap gears if you're planning on going racing, or for a long drive. The axles don't even have to come all the way out, just a few inches. Weld a drain bung into the housing and the whole thing can be done in less than an hour, with not all that much mess. Not as strong as a Dana 60, but unless you're running big horsepower they're more than strong enough.
  7. Yeah I just about died when I saw that thread on the HAMB! Especially when I figured out that the truck was only a few hours from me. Certainly would be an easier project than mine! But, with that truck I'd feel like I had to keep it stock. At least with my '37 I don't need to worry about that... The wheels are optional "high clearance" wheels offered by Dodge. If I remember right, they're 20" rims. There were a few variations based on the year of manufacture, most are 18" or 20". That particular type I've seen sell for well over $1k. Like my custom wheels?
  8. I love pilothouses, but that poor thing has got a face only a mother could love..
  9. Definitely. Based on what I saw, I'd venture that someone bought it as a project and realized they were in over their heads. One of those "it'll run with a couple of things" kinda deals, except it needed more work than that (engine rebuild). Maybe someone thought they could fix it and "flip" it for a profit? Whatever the case, its too bad it ended up at pick n pull. It's really not geared toward older stuff like that, which is why I'm trying to get the word out. Most people looking for '55 C3 parts won't check pick n pull, and most folks at pick n pull don't have the foggiest idea what to do with a '55 C3.
  10. Thought I would post this up here in case anyone in NorCal can use some parts. I was doing an inventory search and under D150 a '55 C3 popped up. Had to go out and look. This is what I found... Pretty much a complete truck, and a V8 at that!!! The 259 poly was stuck, but all there. Against my better judgement I pulled the 259 and transmission and brought it home, probably cost a little too much considering its a stuck poly. But I really didn't want it to go to waste, and since I have a couple of 270 poly's I figured I could use the parts. None of the half a dozen people that stopped to ask me about it knew a thing, best guess I got was a 318 poly. Anyway, the front end is now off the truck (so I could pull the engine), so that would be an easy grab. Bed is complete, still has both axles and brakes, as well as the bench seat, gauges, etc. Damn shame someone dropped it at pick-n-pull, other than a little rust at the cab/fender area of the cab it would have been a good resto candidate. If I didn't already have so many projects I would have considered trying to buy the whole thing, it was apparently a roller when it got there. Looks as if someone poured some Marvel mystery oil in some of the cylinders, guess someone thought it would be an easy fix. Now that its in my shop the engine gives off an unmistakable "welding" smell, probably not a good sign. Hopefully someone can make use of some of the parts that are left...
  11. My g/f has a 6v Optima in her '55 Coronet. Been there about a year now I think, no issues with it whatsoever. It's being charged by a rebuilt stock generator and run through a new voltage regulator.
  12. If you're not looking to spend more than a few thousand dollars you'll have a hard time keeping the poly or even a flathead. The Flathead parts can be had a little cheaper if you keep an eye out for NOS stuff on eBay, I picked up pistons and rings for my flathead for less than half what it would have cost for a poly. Also keep in mind that a lot of the poly parts are hemi parts, so there's more support than you think. But in either case, flathead or poly, the parts are going to cost more than for a 318. Be careful if you're actually going to sandblast the body parts, its pretty easy to warp sheet metal with a sandblaster. If you're having it done at a shop they *should* know this, but I thought I'd mention it. It will be a lot easier to do it now if you're tearing it down to the frame, especially if you're going to paint the outside. Prepping the outside of the truck will be a lot easier if the inside/backside of everything is clean too. You would think that as long as the outside is clean you'd be fine, but all that dirt finds a way out when you start painting, and of course if it finds a way out it ends up in the paint.
  13. Are you still running the original harmonic balancer behind the front pulley? I'd probably look there unless you know something about the torque converter I don't. The hemi's should all be neutrally balanced, so if the torque converter for that auto wasn't that could definitely be the issue. But if its also a neutral balance, I'd look at the harmonic balancer next if its the original. The rubber has a tendency to break down, I know both of the harmonic balancers for my '70's 318's were junk.
  14. Uhh, actually, according to Bunn, Custom and DeLuxe cabs had them from '48-'50, but from '51-'53 only the Custom cabs had them. Regardless, not all PH trucks had them. My '53 B4B doesn't. Since it also has wing vents, that would make it a DeLuxe.
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