9 foot box

What condenser did you get?

I had to replace the fuel pump on my 47 WD21. I dressed and set the point gap, cause it wasn’t firing like it should. It started and I backed it out of the driveway. It wouldn’t start the next day and the points were grounded. I had an old blister package from Gambles or Coast to Coast that had the same style points. I put the points in and the engine fired right up. It started good again this afternoon @ 24 degrees, without being plugged in. Because my truck has a 49 Chrysler Spitfire engine, it has a IAP-4102C-1 distributor. I ordered two sets of Autolite IGP-3028ES points Saturday and got them today. The old points are stamped Varoom. Now I’m searching for an Autolite catalog to get the correct cap for some other distributors that I have. Thanks for the old post. Rick D.

My 46, the clips bolt to the sill. My 49 first edition has your style clips. I bent the tangs tight, so they would stay in place till I put the moulding trim on, centered it and dropped it down into place and secured it to the clips. The front stud at the front fender and a rear clip, that bolts the rear of the trim to the bottom of the sill holds it in place. If you are missing the rear clip, you might have to fabricate a somewhat t- shaped one. There should be a 1/4”x20 thread on the sill bottom that holds the clip and trim into place. Rick D.

From a Motors manual. I would keep your .008”int. and .010”ex. settings. Rick D.

There are a few variations of valve tappet clearance on the flathead engine. The first is from my FSM for a 218, the second is from my manual for W-series trucks. Tech tips says .010” ex and .008” intake. I’ve only adjusted one of my P15 cars with a 230 c.i. tappets, but I set them at .010” intake and .012” ex, because I drive highway speed. I set each piston at it’s firing position and adjust the tappet clearance. I think using feeler gauges in a running engine hammers and distorts them. An older engine could have different specs, but I’m just giving my opinion and references to some discrepancies. Exhaust valves need more clearance to prevent burning the edges of the valves and seats. Maybe Tim from AOK Boys can set us straight. Rick D.

Any one of these starters from 46-55 will work for you. Both these solenoids are stamped 6v, despite what the internet listings say, a Standard SS566 is 12v. Mount the button left of the steering wheel and it allows you to work the choke and throttle with your right hand. The diagram is for a P15, but how you get power to the button is up to you. Depending on where you mount the solenoid, use the proper battery cables as long as it’s still 6 volt. There are some ideas and advice, now will you post some pictures of your truck, as long as you’re a new member. Rick D.

Go to Rockauto and look up 1978 Ford F-100. the wheel cylinders look like yours and the AC Delco brake shoes has the same number as yours. Rick D.

Here is a picture of my tailgate. 47 WD21. It’s on this easel, I can widen the frame and take another picture if it would work for you and the print shop. Rick D.

I’m not familiar with a 35 Plymouth PJ, but maybe some information from ply33.com can give you a sealed release bearing that will fit your sleeve. Rick D.

I’ve had two damper pulley’s rebuilt by hbrepair.com. Any used pulley would be aged. Check Dave’s web site, and you decide. Rick D.

There is an original service manual, with good pictures, on eBay. The item number is 373234016063, the seller is h.s.teacher. $24.26, $4.88 shipping. It will tell you about the diagnostic procedure for what you’re trying to figure out. Reprints are not very good at picture clarity.

This is what Jerry R. is referring to.

The line coming off the oil gauge and through the firewall has a short rubber line for vibration and engine flexing. You can buy 8” or 12” brake line that I would attach to the rear engine oil pressure port, and attach the other end to the hose. That keeps the fittings inverted flare and close to the firewall. I would buy eBay part # 173602620307 hose. That’s all you need for an oil gauge connection, not all that hose pictured. Inverted flare to 1/8” pipe to 1/8” to 1/4” pipe adapter. I just bought that hose for a build I’m working on. Rick D.

Remember this thread?

Thank you, Marcel. I have a Fulton windshield visor that looked nice on the car before I painted. I also bought some fender skirts. I had too much sweat equity into the paint to jeopardize it by adding aftermarket parts. I’ve always liked the speed lines on the fenders of the earlier Dodge and Plymouth Road Kings. My 47 Dodge truck has them. I look forward to seeing your project thread and offering any tips for vendors for parts you may need. Rubbercal.com and rubber the right way.com have parts that helped me with trunk matting and staples for inside door trim. Rick D.

I don’t think a deep cycle battery would work. But an Interstate 1-8v-VHD is what I have, Deka makes an 8 volt 801. Deka makes a 902, 6 volt battery, advertised as having 675 cca’s. That’s a good number in comparisons. I have NAPA 7204, 6 volt batteries in my coupes, the tag says 675 cca’s at 0 degrees. The NAPA and Deka batteries are made by the EastPenn Co. They don’t outgas and the battery top stays clean. I went 8 volt because that is what I had on hand when I was getting my truck running. I left it in because the truck is a weathered truck that stays outside and I plug in the tank heater for an hour or so if it’s below freezing. If you keep your truck garaged, have the proper gauge cables with good connections, a healthy starter, ignition and carburetor, you don’t need 8 volts. If you need brighter headlight’s, you can wire in relays. You can see that the 8 volt is rated at 520 cca’s, but you have 2 more volts to the starter. Your choice. Rick D.

Your 74 Dodge is super clean. I hope you can get your 53 COE road able for this years truck shows. I just watched a clip of an Empire State ATA and didn’t see any B4HMA’s. Your truck will garner attention that will surprise you, I would think, just like it did here. Rick D.

The first two pictures are before, the PO reversed the door trim, used 1/4" paneling for door cards and put the bucket seats and console in. I changed all his efforts back to original, for the better, in my opinion. Rick D.

My 46 is still performing, but I wanted to bring it forward in the forum. It was back to page 54. I also wanted to share with a few members that have PM’d me about a few subjects. I took a ride last week to Three Forks, MT, headwaters of the Missouri River. This is the Sacajawea Hotel built in 1910, upscale dining, nice rooms and five new cottages. Rick D.

Don Bunn calls the transmission connection a reach rod, I understand that. It’s interesting that Chrysler Corp. retained the stomp pedal starter at that position, when a solenoid actuated starter with a dash starter button would work. Everything’s fine, I didn’t fall off a turnip wagon and I’m still rodeoing. Learn something every day. I have a B4D chassis and engine with the rear axle flipped and a farmhand loader mounted. It had a bale handler on it that the co-buyer wanted, but not the chassis. This is the starter lever. Rick D.

I conversed with Larr991 about a couple things and thought I’d address semantics. You can have a renovation, restoration, rejuvenation or resurrection or any number of references. I prefer resurrection, because it will be be coming back into use. It need’s higher gearing at present but I have parts to fix that. I thought about restoring the side panels with the original lettering but that probably won’t happen. I just got to get it drivable and fix the front fenders next. It is a project. I haven’t stopped looking for the earlier model Dodge’s with the offset engine and independent rear suspension though. Maybe it’s best. Rick D.

I can see a latch point on the box, so I assume your truck has swing open doors. The truck has a shroud under the dash, that again, I assume it directed the cowl vent air towards the driver. Last is, what is the control lever on the floor rear of the gear shift? I’d like to see pictures of inside the box, to see how they secured the load, at your leisure. Did you get your gas gauge fixed? Rick D.

It looks like all you need are four 5/8” long 1/4”-20 bolts with a lock washer and heavy flat washers. Rick D.

With solid core wires, I like to solder the wire to the crimp end at the distributor and coil wire. You can’t depend on a good contact otherwise. Rick D.

You didn’t, you just showed us a survivor that members couldn’t help but to remark about. Most posts don’t get a response like yours, just a like. I worked at a transfer Co. that had a Mayflower contract. So I drove a few pre 70’s trucks. Because your truck is so high, it was probably used mostly for dock work. Just to appease Watash, here’s a truck picture. Rick D.