9 foot box

I had to meet a man Sunday, to get a flywheel and starter for a new to me 54 Savoy Club Coupe. The battery was weak and needed a charge temporarily to start. It worked fine all day. I went to move it yesterday and it was dead and would not charge. The electrolyte level under the neg. terminal was slightly above the plates. The other two cells were well above the plates. I topped off all three cells and am trickle charging it. It now passes a load test, but I will slow charge for a bit longer. I’m going to NAPA tomorrow and seeing about a 7204 group II battery, like I have in my other car. The Centennial battery in question has sulfide on the plates after two years and appears to outgas more than the NAPA. Anyway, the whole point is to check your battery, because of these higher temperatures, and top off the cells with distilled water. I worked at a full service station in Sacramento in 1970, and it was common practice to top off the battery with a Plews 75-030 that prevented over filling, we only used tap water. Rick D.

To keep it simple, I would paint the bottom flywheel bolt and scribe the flywheel. Tap the four bolts forward and you should have enough room to drop the flywheel. Put a peen mark at the scribe mark after you drop it out and it will be indexed for replacement, after having been cleaned and resurfaced. The grommet for the bearing retainer is 670946, rubber, 5/16 I.D. x 7/16 O.D., 1/8 in. thick. I don’t think you can remove the bell housing with the flywheel on, even if the engine was out. My flywheel bolts are installed from the rear, with the nuts forward because of the crank flange design. Rick D.

At the top of the page, there is a resources tab. Click that, then P15 reference, scroll down to a color chart. Rick D.

My parts books have a 50722 part number, for the drain plug, and it is a 7/8x18. A magnetic one comes up on eBay using that number. The copper and asbestos crush gasket is 105456. Just thought I would give you additional information if you buy another plug. Rick D.

Cartouche used to sell wool pinstripe fabric by the yard. It cost $90 per yard and later went to $58 per yard. They only sell upholstery kits now. Being a beginner at sewing, I went with a tweed fabric for my seat and door panels and the seat on another car.

Your welcome. Well then go to C.R.Laurence website and go to page 252 and maybe you will find an appropriate seal. It might be up or down a page for what you want. I don’t think you can seal out rain, but it’s best to keep the the drain holes open at the bottom of the doors by vacuuming any undercoating or sound deadener that has fallen off the inner door skin. Call DCM and see what he says about 56 C models. Rick D.

I posted that information on June 20th. I replaced my old Autolite SST 4001 solenoid with a Standard SS549 solenoid a few years ago. It is stamped on the back 6v. It replaces four Chrysler solenoids, one of which is a 1120518. The number in my P15 parts list book. A SS558 has a button on the bottom to remotely engage the starter, with the key on or off. I would question any wiring the PO did and wire it to the P15 wiring diagram. I could have your car running in minutes with a remote starter button and jumper wire to the coil. I’ve started engines on a pallet. You have stated that it should be simple, but with that soldered terminal block, I don’t think it’s wired correct. I can post a wiring diagram if you want. You will find the problem. Rick D.

They are a metal strip 7/16" wide by 1/4" thick with the fuzzy face. It is being held to my garage door with a magnet. Rick D.

The diagonal cut at the bottom of the tube, helps to keep a positive flow. I guess on a stationary engine, the flow would be created by the fan, when ran up to operation speed. I would suggest that you rethink your fuel line from the pressure side of the pump to the carburetor. If that second picture is a picture of your engine. Rick D.

I have bought from DCM a few products. RW-101 rubber bumpers, RW-105 L-shaped fuzzy, RW-137 sweeper clip, and RW-175 sweepers. The PO had used weather strip adhesive on my 46 P15. The door had small holes on the outer skin, for the early design sweep, that I enlarged to accept the clip. I think the trucks have a larger hole, because my 47 truck has sweeps and clips and enlarging the hole would have been a problem I would remember. Rick D.

It means that with the draft tube installed on the engine, you loosen the bolt holding the draft tube and point the tube down and back as far as it will go before hitting the bell housing. Tighten the bolt to hold it in place. When the truck is in motion it helps to create a vacuum to pull the fumes and vapors from the crankcase. Rick D.

The cable exits the cab at the center hole with a notch cut out on the upper foot board at the base of the inner firewall. There is a 1/4” hole on the firewall about five inches up, to attach a cable clamp. Rick D.

From what I said was, you don’t need that chicken crap filter above a hot manifold. The best way to do it is hard line from the pump to the carburetor. You don’t need another filter. You just need the ability to make a 5/16 double flare on your tubing. Putting four more hose clamps doesn’t make sense to me, if you want a original stock look. Rick D.

My Hollander book says that a Plymouth and Dodge 1946-55 starters interchange. I would check and clean the wiring connections for the starter button on both ends and the amp gauge connections. That’s a good price for a starter, but I think you have a different problem, because it seems to be sporadic. Humid conditions can compromise a constant connection to ground or power. I had a similar problem, so that’s my recommendation. Amp gauges can go bad also. But you can jump the terminals, as a test. Rick D.

I have a Walker 15021B carburetor rebuild kit and it comes with two needle and seat fittings. One is 1/8” npt and the other is inverted flare for a 1/2-20 thread, for a 5/16” hard line. A Carter or A/C fuel filter will screw on to the 1/8” fitting. I would not use your Zenith filter. I wouldn’t trust it to not leak. The bowl and clip just looks to iffy to me. The sediment bowl on the fuel pump, checked regularly would be a better option. A 1/8” npt pipe union and another 90 degree fitting would keep your fuel line away from the manifold and allow for easier bends on your hard line. I use 1/4” Teflon tape on all pipe fittings. Rick D.

The fuel line from the pump to the carburetor should be 5/16 OD. That would make the ID close to 1/4”. A 3402-05-02 is a 90 degree fitting that adapts a 1/8” npt fuel pump thread to a 5/16” OD inverted flare tubing. I wouldn’t use smaller tubing to supply fuel to the carburetor. It keeps it simple to have the same 1/2”-20 thread as the needle valve fitting at the carburetor. Rick D.

For my P15, I got the L seal from Roberts. I don’t see it on the site now. DCM Classics has a RW-105 that I think will work. MoparMall has a RF-32216 with both the rubber and fuzzy seals.

I have not found a 3/8x 27 NPS fitting. So I bought the common 24 thread fitting and a 3/8x27 die to chase the threads. Tested with 40 lbs. of air and soap, no leaks. I didn't use teflon tape at the gauge, just the brass adapter fittings. I don't even need a new line, but that's my fix for if I do need one. Rick D.

I used AuVeCo 12961 moulding fasteners on my cowl trim. That number is for a box of 15. I also used sealed nuts.

There are a couple original Dodge car service manuals on eBay. D50 thru D53. The original loose leaf design has better picture quality than reprints. The Dodge service manual does not refer to the Hy-Drive, only Powerflyte. The Mayfair is called a Plodge because of the mixture of parts used. My P15 Plymouth service manual goes to 1954 and has Hy- Drive information in it. I would recommend buying both service manuals. Rick D.

Here are some 180 thermostat numbers, NAPA THM155, Stant 13928, Gates 33028, Carquest 30028. For 160 degree, NAPA THM55 and change the 8 to a 6 for the others. What thermostat did you just try from O’Reilly? There is a rubber seal that seats on the top of the thermostat, be sure that it is in the box. The one you bought 40 years ago, doesn’t even look right.

You need thread sealant on the thermostat bolts, if you didn’t do that, they go into the water jacket. It could be the seep that your getting.

In my Dodge or Plymouth parts books, the compression nut and sleeve fitting is 3/8”x27. Part number 119335. Mark’s picture of oil lines show two different fittings, one worked and the other doesn’t. I’m with Robert on this, because we have an original line and gauge in our hands. Rick D.

It looks like a Parker 61HD-3. But I don’t know if the thread count is correct for his gauge.

I’ve seen it posted in the past, that the gauge uses a special ferrule like RobertKB shows. Mine is the same. My P15 parts book lists two oil lines. One is 3/8”x 24 inverted flare and a 3/8”x 27. Your original line is pipe thread and the new line is straight thread 24. My line nut is 3/8”x27 straight thread not NPT. If you have a parts list book, look in the engine oiling section for what lines were used. I thought that a compression fitting for pilot would work, but I don’t know the thread count.