9 foot box

I gave up finding a filter that fit and had the correct gasket, and parts haven’t been eliminated or changed, on the many aftermarket bypass filters. I use a Wix 24755 bypass filter housing, that uses a spin-on filter, on a couple of my cars. I’m confident that the oil is being filtered and I don’t have to clean a canister. Rick D.

This is from my P15 shop manual. Be sure to use grommets/o-rings on the three bolts and a 3/4” soft plug or a penny to seal the shift rail. 42 on the picture. Rick D.

The freeze plug ahead of the distributor has the same amount of crud behind it. I had to clear the left side of my block to clean it and brush paint the block with Eastwood silver ceramic engine paint. It’s not that hard to do. You could do the same thing as long as you’re doing it. I would change at the least, both bottom plugs. Melling sells a MEP14B, 1 5/8” brass freeze plug. If you buy them from Rockauto, heck, I’ll buy the other five. If you can hook up a hose to your hot water tank, you can flush the block and your water heater at the same time. Do it right the first time and you don’t have to worry if another freeze plug will fail. Sometimes a length of inner speedometer cable can be used to loosen the sediment if wire doesn’t work very well. IMO. Rick D.

You have to pull your throttle out too far, for it to work. Maybe try hooking it up so it is resting on the linkage. Then when your throttle knob is out 1/8” or so, you have a faster idle. Both of my linkage pieces are shaped like the one pictured, so yours may need some bending to keep the cable in-line with the lever. Unless I’m wrong about how your linkage works. Rick D.

The original engine number could be on the frame behind the left rear wheel. There is a casting date just under the distributor adjustment bolt. They don’t all look like this, but you get the idea. If it has a head like this, it’s internal bypass and probably a 230 c.i. You can check the stroke at the 6th cylinder pipe plug on the head. Then you know what you have. Rick D.

I had to rotate some vehicles around to service my wife’s Town and Country. I got my VIN tag, and it’s back on the lift for taillights and turn signals. I really wanted to to take it down the road, but I’ll wait for it to be legal with license plates and proof of insurance. 1957 parking light lenses are at a premium, but late 76-86 CJ Jeep lights or lenses will work. You can’t use the original bezel. The chrome is in the plastic lens on the Jeep version. Rick D.

Looks great. Is that a pearl paint? What is the engine number? It appears to have a bump at the front of the head. You have Desert Valley Auto Parts in Casa Grande for any parts you are missing. I would like to wander through their yard. I see it has a six blade fan. I have two business coupes also. The only problem, you need more garage. Rick D.

I don’t have any books that refer to a 37 Plymouth truck starter. The pictures are for a 41-47 Dodge truck. I have seen the shoes on the shift yoke assembly wear down (13). I was able to turn them over for a fresh contact on the shift collar(25). You will find it easier to pull the starter than trying to assess why it started being a problem. The starters that I have seen have a number on the tag that begins with MAW or MAX. What does your tag say? Rick D.

I’ve been able to drive my cars recently. I took both my cars to fill the gas tanks with premium fuel, and go for an Easter Day ride. Today it looks like it may have to wait a few days to drive again.

To answer your question, looks like a 308 is the next hottest.

Now that’s the information you need. Thanks Bob. It’s possible that the seal was installed with a locktite of some sort. A gentle heating will release the bond. I would eliminate the yellow paint, at least on the inside of the cover. You seem to have Christine’s older sister.

The temperature got to 62* Sunday. A lot of snow pack in the Tobacco Root mountains. The center peak is Hollowtop Mtn. at 10604’. It was a nicer Easter than April 12,2020. Rick D.

My Dekalb had a BXVD-3 carburetor on it. It would run for a minute or two and start leaking gas. It’s the wrong carburetor for a truck engine with a four speed. I put a D6G1 that I recently bought from an East Canadian seller for $50. I bought it because it has a fast idle cam and link to the choke. It cleaned up and works at idle. When my taillights get here and I get my VIN plate, I can have it inspected after showing the Deputy the frame number.

Maybe the chain cover was tightened before the hub was put on forty years ago. You might be able to replace the seal and center the case with your hub, and possibly a speedy-sleeve if your hub is worn. You might need a 1 11/16” socket and a short piece of pipe in the end of the crankshaft so your hub puller has something to push off of. I’ve bought larger sockets from Tractor Supply for $20. You will need a 3/4” to 1/2” adapter for the tools you probably own.

Some information from my W-series parts book. I googled 1193583, and there is one on eBay in Alberta. Rick D.

I’ve had this fan for years and finally adapted it to fit a Gates 42554 water pump. It measures 16 1/2”. I saw a Cummins/Onan fan co130192400 that is 17”, and the bolt pattern is real close to what you need. It’s the $89 one. Rick D.

I agree with going 12 volt. @OUTFXDalready has a stereo, and he wants to pull a teardrop trailer. So you would want good taillights for safety. When you eventually get a light trailer, you could add another battery and a 3000 watt inverter or better for an AC power supply. You wouldn’t need propane or a cook stove, coffee pot and an electric fry pan. I would still purchase my alternator from Howard Enterprise. Rick D.

I haven’t updated lately, but I put a 4.1 rear differential in the Dekalb. It I had 2 1/2” lift blocks, I eliminated them, and bought new u-bolts. Now I can hook up the shocks that are wired up out of the way. I had to put new bushings in the rear of the springs and disassemble and wire brush them clean with the new spring bolts. Yesterday I made a couple new pedals. I had bought these pads, but they don’t work for a W-series. Must have been a lot of mud on the man’s boots. I somewhat straightened the edge of the clutch pedal for the picture. I could have bought them from Roberts, but I had the pads. Rick D.

I can drive my 49 first edition with a 3.9 easily at 65 mph. I make a trip to Three Forks to recycle paper, cardboard and plastic. It’s only a 60 mile round trip. Today, I drove the Interstate to TF and old highway US10 along the Jefferson River and past Lewis and Clark caverns on the return. As much as we like to go for a drive, I got a half dozen waves on the secondary road, I think it brings a smile to other drivers too. Rick D.

They are cork and the side gaskets were probably originally .045” thick and more like a card stock or layered paper. My new gaskets and seals are cork, Fel-pro OS 4250 C. Dodgeb4ya posted this Nov.15,2018, I used 4 guide pins with a slot for a screwdriver. One hole over from end, hung the pan with a few longer bolts, then put the guide pins in the corners. If I have to do it again I will taper the ends of the pins. It will make placement of the pan easier. Rick D.

I would only use a Melling M-37 pump. I would prime it in a can of oil you are going to use on start up and index the pump as indicated in the service manual. Most recently Marcel had an oil pump gear failure. The gist of it is, a few aftermarket repops of these oil pumps are inferior.

I put the oil pan on my 57 D-300 yesterday. Dodgeb4ya posted about 5 years ago, about using short straight pins to keep the gasket oriented to the front and rear seal. I did that, with a small amount of gasket maker at 4 points under the gasket and seal. These are the old seals, you can see why they added length to the end of the seals for squish, needed for a proper seal. Rick D.

What condenser did you get?

I had to replace the fuel pump on my 47 WD21. I dressed and set the point gap, cause it wasn’t firing like it should. It started and I backed it out of the driveway. It wouldn’t start the next day and the points were grounded. I had an old blister package from Gambles or Coast to Coast that had the same style points. I put the points in and the engine fired right up. It started good again this afternoon @ 24 degrees, without being plugged in. Because my truck has a 49 Chrysler Spitfire engine, it has a IAP-4102C-1 distributor. I ordered two sets of Autolite IGP-3028ES points Saturday and got them today. The old points are stamped Varoom. Now I’m searching for an Autolite catalog to get the correct cap for some other distributors that I have. Thanks for the old post. Rick D.

My 46, the clips bolt to the sill. My 49 first edition has your style clips. I bent the tangs tight, so they would stay in place till I put the moulding trim on, centered it and dropped it down into place and secured it to the clips. The front stud at the front fender and a rear clip, that bolts the rear of the trim to the bottom of the sill holds it in place. If you are missing the rear clip, you might have to fabricate a somewhat t- shaped one. There should be a 1/4”x20 thread on the sill bottom that holds the clip and trim into place. Rick D.