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9 foot box

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Everything posted by 9 foot box

  1. I’ve had two damper pulley’s rebuilt by hbrepair.com. Any used pulley would be aged. Check Dave’s web site, and you decide. Rick D.
  2. There is an original service manual, with good pictures, on eBay. The item number is 373234016063, the seller is h.s.teacher. $24.26, $4.88 shipping. It will tell you about the diagnostic procedure for what you’re trying to figure out. Reprints are not very good at picture clarity.
  3. The line coming off the oil gauge and through the firewall has a short rubber line for vibration and engine flexing. You can buy 8” or 12” brake line that I would attach to the rear engine oil pressure port, and attach the other end to the hose. That keeps the fittings inverted flare and close to the firewall. I would buy eBay part # 173602620307 hose. That’s all you need for an oil gauge connection, not all that hose pictured. Inverted flare to 1/8” pipe to 1/8” to 1/4” pipe adapter. I just bought that hose for a build I’m working on. Rick D.
  4. Thank you, Marcel. I have a Fulton windshield visor that looked nice on the car before I painted. I also bought some fender skirts. I had too much sweat equity into the paint to jeopardize it by adding aftermarket parts. I’ve always liked the speed lines on the fenders of the earlier Dodge and Plymouth Road Kings. My 47 Dodge truck has them. I look forward to seeing your project thread and offering any tips for vendors for parts you may need. Rubbercal.com and rubber the right way.com have parts that helped me with trunk matting and staples for inside door trim. Rick D.
  5. I don’t think a deep cycle battery would work. But an Interstate 1-8v-VHD is what I have, Deka makes an 8 volt 801. Deka makes a 902, 6 volt battery, advertised as having 675 cca’s. That’s a good number in comparisons. I have NAPA 7204, 6 volt batteries in my coupes, the tag says 675 cca’s at 0 degrees. The NAPA and Deka batteries are made by the EastPenn Co. They don’t outgas and the battery top stays clean. I went 8 volt because that is what I had on hand when I was getting my truck running. I left it in because the truck is a weathered truck that stays outside and I plug in the tank heater for an hour or so if it’s below freezing. If you keep your truck garaged, have the proper gauge cables with good connections, a healthy starter, ignition and carburetor, you don’t need 8 volts. If you need brighter headlight’s, you can wire in relays. You can see that the 8 volt is rated at 520 cca’s, but you have 2 more volts to the starter. Your choice. Rick D.
  6. Your 74 Dodge is super clean. I hope you can get your 53 COE road able for this years truck shows. I just watched a clip of an Empire State ATA and didn’t see any B4HMA’s. Your truck will garner attention that will surprise you, I would think, just like it did here. Rick D.
  7. The first two pictures are before, the PO reversed the door trim, used 1/4" paneling for door cards and put the bucket seats and console in. I changed all his efforts back to original, for the better, in my opinion. Rick D.
  8. My 46 is still performing, but I wanted to bring it forward in the forum. It was back to page 54. I also wanted to share with a few members that have PM’d me about a few subjects. I took a ride last week to Three Forks, MT, headwaters of the Missouri River. This is the Sacajawea Hotel built in 1910, upscale dining, nice rooms and five new cottages. Rick D.
  9. Don Bunn calls the transmission connection a reach rod, I understand that. It’s interesting that Chrysler Corp. retained the stomp pedal starter at that position, when a solenoid actuated starter with a dash starter button would work. Everything’s fine, I didn’t fall off a turnip wagon and I’m still rodeoing. Learn something every day. I have a B4D chassis and engine with the rear axle flipped and a farmhand loader mounted. It had a bale handler on it that the co-buyer wanted, but not the chassis. This is the starter lever. Rick D.
  10. I conversed with Larr991 about a couple things and thought I’d address semantics. You can have a renovation, restoration, rejuvenation or resurrection or any number of references. I prefer resurrection, because it will be be coming back into use. It need’s higher gearing at present but I have parts to fix that. I thought about restoring the side panels with the original lettering but that probably won’t happen. I just got to get it drivable and fix the front fenders next. It is a project. I haven’t stopped looking for the earlier model Dodge’s with the offset engine and independent rear suspension though. Maybe it’s best. Rick D.
  11. I can see a latch point on the box, so I assume your truck has swing open doors. The truck has a shroud under the dash, that again, I assume it directed the cowl vent air towards the driver. Last is, what is the control lever on the floor rear of the gear shift? I’d like to see pictures of inside the box, to see how they secured the load, at your leisure. Did you get your gas gauge fixed? Rick D.
  12. It looks like all you need are four 5/8” long 1/4”-20 bolts with a lock washer and heavy flat washers. Rick D.
  13. With solid core wires, I like to solder the wire to the crimp end at the distributor and coil wire. You can’t depend on a good contact otherwise. Rick D.
  14. You didn’t, you just showed us a survivor that members couldn’t help but to remark about. Most posts don’t get a response like yours, just a like. I worked at a transfer Co. that had a Mayflower contract. So I drove a few pre 70’s trucks. Because your truck is so high, it was probably used mostly for dock work. Just to appease Watash, here’s a truck picture. Rick D.
  15. Did you ever take the distributor cap off to see if the rotor is turning when you are cranking it over?
  16. When working under vehicles, I have bumped my head a few times. I bought a 8945 bump cap that fits into a ball cap and is actually comfortable to wear. They can be trimmed to fit, I had not done that in the pictures. Rick D.
  17. Here are a few pages from my 1957 K series manual. If they are legible. Rick D.
  18. You could make a replacement with a coupling nut, a bolt with the head ground off and a lock nut. That’s what my P15 parts book would replicate. I don’t know what a 41 clutch rod looks like. I put the MC rod in the picture for reference to rounding off the bolt head. Rick D.
  19. I recommend removing the hood and then taking the front fenders, grill, radiator off in one piece. Then you can remove the radiator and get to the five core plugs on the left side of the engine, the block drain plug and the water distribution tube. The weight of the radiator keeps the clip fairly balanced. I did use a couple 1” ratchet straps to hold up the fenders. I pulled two B model engines that way, with each truck still on my trailer. I used my forklift with a boom, but a cherry picker will work fine, with your truck on the ground. The trouble with honeycomb radiators is that when old time shops fixed them, it looked like it was hit with a shotgun. A local shop wouldn’t fix mine, but recored it with a newer style core for $500, with my top and bottom tanks. It would probably cost twice that now. You have a junk yard handy for parts anyway. Rick D.
  20. There is one now for sale on eBay. I just happened to have an original, made 12/22/22. Didn’t cost a cent. Rick D.
  21. There is a bulb chart in the downloads tab. Click downloads, click the 76 items on reference information on the right and it’s the last item on page 3. It looks like this. Rick D.
  22. I have a Century Spring catalog. There is an online catalog also. I would think that you could find something that would work. This is a page I picked that seemed close to what was pictured. Rick D.
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