9 foot box

I’ve seen it posted in the past, that the gauge uses a special ferrule like RobertKB shows. Mine is the same. My P15 parts book lists two oil lines. One is 3/8”x 24 inverted flare and a 3/8”x 27. Your original line is pipe thread and the new line is straight thread 24. My line nut is 3/8”x27 straight thread not NPT. If you have a parts list book, look in the engine oiling section for what lines were used. I thought that a compression fitting for pilot would work, but I don’t know the thread count.

Tod Fitch has a site, ply33.com. It says that a B47 belt is used. Newer belts are narrower than original. I would look for a 49” belt, because it fits deeper in the pulley. A B46 Gates or NAPA. The belt should be at least 3/8” thick, so it doesn’t twist in the pulley. I realize your Dodge, but a lot of things are similar at that site.

You must not have inverted flare fittings. 1/8” pipe fitting is 27 tpi. I’d bet a 1/8” pipe plug would thread into your fitting. You should not have to change fittings on the lines to fix your problem, if the correct brass elbows/fittings are inverted flare.

When I had an ultralight aircraft and was fueling it from gas cans, I used a mr. funnel water separator. Water won’t flow through the fine mesh. Water settles to the bottom of a white bucket more visually. I have a hand pump transfer pump that I would pump the water from each bucket from the bottom, when it starts smelling like gas stop. Food coloring stirred in would show any remaining water left in the gas, in a white bucket. Rick D.

I’m just giving you some grab bag guesses from a Hollander book. What carburetor do you have? Like Sniper mentioned, disconnect the linkage at the carburetor. Attach a spring, so it doesn’t go wide open when started. Lengthen the linkage on one or both of the rods, so the rod attaches at the carb, without changing the idle speed. You may have to readjust them both for full throttle movement. As mentioned, your idle mixture screw will not respond correct or at all, to any adjustment with the engine above 450-500 rpm. Any Carter carbs that I have, will work with original car or truck linkage. They will either push or pull the throttle lever. Rick D.

Yes, they are all Carter numbers. I did look at some others that are on non fluid coupling standard transmissions, DTE1, DTE2, and F7T2. A couple Stromberg, 380261 replaces a 380248 and a 380245 manual choke. A 380246 Stromberg is automatic choke. The throttle plate has a bevel on the edges, when installed correct, you close the throttle plate to the bore and tighten the screws. Check for free movement. Rick D.

6 bolts on a 7 1/4” pattern. I’ve bought every one I’ve found within 300 miles.

I just installed my second Wix 24755 bypass filter housing, with a NAPA 1320 spin-on filter. I was using a 1010 element that seemed to fit in my old housing, but the lid gasket was wrong, and the old housing gasket was sweating oil. I used Eaton inverted flare fitting numbers, 90 degree-402X3, 45 degree-352X3, straight 202X3, inverted flare plug 131X3. You won’t find a 10-27-10 elbow. My oil pressure gauge line comes from the rear fitting on the block, above the starter. I used Ni-Copp brake line sections. A 12” worked for my feed line and I had to cut and double flare a 20” line for the return line. My old flare tool, with cheap double flare buttons, got the job done but bent the center pin on the button. I changed the oil, and started, no leaks. I ordered a Titan 51535 flare tool yesterday, to hopefully, get consistent double flares. The spin-on filter, might not be period correct, but you know it’s working, by design. No more searching for the correct filter or gasket from multiple manufacturers, and it’s cleaner.

The P15 parts list calls for 2- 7/16-14 x 1 1/4” bolts with lock washers, to mount the starter. So if your inboard bolt is longer than that, dpollo, has probably seen this before. Rick D.

I would have to see a picture of your truck currently. I’d paint the running boards flat black, and dream up a door signage. It’s a small change, but it will change the look a lot. Burgundy or black pinstripes on the louvers on the hood and grill might change the look also. I just could not sand down your truck. There is also a line that runs from the top back of the door to the belt line that can be enhanced with a pinstripe. Just a thought on you making it yours. Rick D.

P15 cars used a D6G1 carburetor. I use a Walker 15021B rebuild kit. I would stay away from any carb with a dash pot or any wiring involved. They are for cars or trucks with a fluid drive coupling or any of the other types of transmissions. My Hollander book lists, besides the D6G1, a D6H1 and E9T1. Under fleet economy they list B6A1, B6U1, B6V1, B6W1 and a 590S. What carburetor do you have and what’s the problem you are having with it?

In downloads under most downloaded, to the far right, is a diagram of the drum/shoe adjustment. The arrows on the anchor bolts point to the wheel cylinder. The minor adjustment cam pin is fully retracted when you put your wrench on it and push the wrench up on both front and rear. If that doesn’t give you more clearance, PM Harmony and get a measurement of his pins, from the bottom of the slot to the rounded end that inserts into the cylinder. You will want all four pins on your front wheels the same length. You’ll find your old pins when you get this figured, Murphy’s Law.

I signed in to eBay and searched 1162D brake lining. I found linings and rivets for front drums for my truck. I also bought 1125D linings and rivets for the 1 ton rear axle, with 14” drums. A set marked 1162DC also came up. There are still some OEM linings available. I’m not convinced that you filed the slot down enough on your pins. I don’t mean to muddy the water, just sharing. Rick D.

I need more information, as to how far you have got. Is the frame off the truck, did you get the eight screws out that hold the top and bottom together, did you break the glass out in pieces? I replaced mine twice. The pattern for the glass was too small, the first time. I made my pattern by assembling the frame, tracing around the frame, and adding 1/4” all around. I used 1/16” glass setting tape, soap mixture and pony clamps to pull it together. I replaced the side screws and used anti-sieze and used button head socket screws for the center regulator attachment. I used an assortment of tools and soapy water, getting the seal around the frame. I even made a wheeled tool, similar to the tool to replace screens, to get the rubber seal bedded proper. The bottom of my frame channel was rusted out also. I used it anyway and fit the glass tighter to the channel. It doesn’t leak. I painted my frame with silver Rust Bullet. To quote Don C., that may or may not help. Rick D.

Pull the plugs and give each cylinder a shot of oil, spin it over and replace plugs. The cylinders have been washed by excessive flooding. Before you pump the throttle, try starting. If it doesn’t respond, give it one pump and try again. All my engines need a pump or two and partial choke to run at start up, and I set the float slightly lower than specs. It’s supposed to get -19 degrees tonight in my neck of the woods. I would plug in the tank heater a couple hours before starting if I needed my truck. A warm engine fires right up. Rick D. Oh yeah, keep on truckin, right Brent?

I was looking in Dodge power wagon sites for an 11 tooth pinion. Anyway, I found a high torque starter. QualityPowerAuto.com, phone 909-794-1600, the part number that I would use is 122-001. They have 6 different models for older Chrysler and Dodge. Rick D.

I have two W series cabs in my shop. The lower cab panel brace is attached with a screw, washers and a nut, to the second hole back on the floor. It’s not welded to the cab floor. Rick D.

I have never read of any that would interchange. The ring gear and tooth count on the bendix gear would be the first problem. The AOK boys might have an alternative. Tim Kingsbury would have some good information. 12volts with a 6 volt starter seems to be what gets used. Did you ever get in touch with Freewheeling Tony Smith@ Montana Dodge Boys? You should post some of your trials. We would all be be very interested.

All the old springs in my 230 c.i. engine are 2” tall. I can’t say for certain if a 201 engine is the same, but they should all be the same length. They should be tested on a spring scale. Compressed to 1 3/4” with a 40-45 lbs. reading. It would be best to replace all the springs. Rick D.

I have no experience with an Ammco or Miller apparatus, but I thought that you measure the drum with the micrometer on toe and the shoes it should be turned over to heel. A previous picture showed toe almost up on the shoe measurement. Is it supposed to be turned on each measurement for proper clearance?

I’ve always used glass setting tape. It comes in various thickness. I center it on the window and fold it over, apply some diluted dish soap, put the bottom piece on where it belongs and tap it on with a mallet. You should be able to use 1/16” setting tape, with a channel opening of slightly under .375”. When you have it bottomed in the channel, trim off the excess setting tape with sharp blade. I always clean and grease the door mechanisms with white grease. Be sure the bottom channel is facing the right way to attach to the arms of the lift. That’s how I would replace your window. Rick D.

In another thread from Wednesday, you show a new and old brake parts. You have to use a shorter push rod coming out of the cylinders. Someone on an old post even cut the notches deeper.

It’s just thin paper gasket material, placed in the groove of the pump, then put the ring seal on, then the cover. The rubber ring shrinks with heat and age. This way, it shims the rubber ring out, so it makes contact with the cover again. That’s the best that I can explain it.

Welcome to the forum mellie, the lower clutch plate has some high spot wear at a few points. I would have your flywheel resurfaced and use the upper clutch disc in your pictures. I wouldn’t compromise a clean flywheel with that lower clutch plate. There is nothing wrong with having a 218. I have a 49 first edition coupe with 3.9 to1 rear gears that does fine with a 218.

My oil pump had a drop of oil on the bottom bolt. I cut a couple paper shim gaskets and put them under the rubber one. 2.670” OD, 2.500”ID. It amounted to about a .012” shim. It’s tricky to get them in, because the gears want to fall out, but I used a couple pump bolts and some fine copper winding wire to keep them in place. I turned down two flat washers of those dimensions to cut the gaskets with an x-acto blade. Results may vary, but it worked for me. Rick D. It’s easier to take the pump off and do it on a bench.