Veemoney

Long story so to summarize, I found a few donor cars for the interior, gauges and glass. Picked up a rebuilt motor and trans from a young man I worked with to beef up before installing and then did some sandblasting and painting on this one. Interior used to be gold and white but it only had a drivers seat when it arrived and no interior panels or headliner. The Az sun did them in or they were scavenged along with the gauges so now it is black inside. Traveled between Detroit and here for most of the parts and accumulated a stash of extras parts along the way.

I located this rust-free sheet metal specimen in Arizona back in the 90s on the internet. Internet is nothing like it is today for search options for car parts. The seller sent me the hard copy pictures below by standard mail along with pictures of 3 other 67 chargers he had for sale at the salvage yard. Bought this one for $500 with the intention of parting it out and keeping the sheet metal for spares. It arrived on the top rack of a car hauler the seller arranged for shipping to me that he knew was heading my way and needed to fill a spot. The seller was supposed to make it a roller. The hauler called the evening before arriving to confirm address and informed me I would need rims and tires. I was fortunate I had some and worked at a place with a large forklift to pull the car off the top rack. Once I looked it over, I had to make a decision on moving forward with this one.

The milk truck is in nice shape and in good hands now. looking forward to the updates. I don't recall ever seeing a truck with as many dents in the fender as the 39. I'm sure there is an interesting story on those dents. Learning to drive on a farm starts in an open field for most, I guess they skipped that step?

What is not to like about an old panhead? just a few mods for this old girl that starts on the first kick as long as the gas in the bowl doesn't sit to long.

P, I enjoyed chugging along in the video. You asked for some pics so I just shot these tonight in the garage. Only had it out a few times this year but it was my daily driver for years once the salt was off the roads. PE is set-up as a highboy (fenderless) with more modern 70s drivetrain modifications. It is still all Mopar, fun to drive but a far cry from that original beauty you have. I have a 4 piece hood but never mounted it

The headlight 3 wire plug has a ground wire that screws to the inside of the headlight bucket and mine had no gaskets when attaching to the fender. Headlight bucket therefore needs to ground through the fender to frame. You could run a separate ground wire to each bucket from the frame for a clean connection which I did on mine.

It could be once stopped it has time to seep some fluid back giving you just enough clearance to release the wheel till you brake again. I took it for granted when you said you checked for "broken or sticking really bad" issues that everything was observed moving freely before putting things back together. I should ask when you pulled the drum and did your inspection did you pull the rubber boots back on the wheel cylinders to see if they had rust inside or lightly actuate the brakes to see they were moving freely? Not sure what or how you checked to see if something was "sticking really bad" to rule that out but a rusty wheel cylinder with a sticking piston/s could also cause the issue. Air in the line would not cause it to lock-up. If you haven't ruled out the wheel cylinders that would be my first guess as to the problem and then the brake hose after that.

How old are your rubber brake hoses? They go bad over time on the inside and can plug the return brake fluid.

The harsh truth is there is at least 1 bare wire maybe 2 showing here screaming for some attention. Consider it the price of a lesson learned. It could have been worse. I hate plastic insulators on lugs, heat shrink tubing is cheap reduces the stress at the connection.

Sniper, makes sense. Was hoping you or someone else may have seen one before Jgreg, I also looked at gauges first and did not see any with the red part so looked at the wiring to see if it would show any additional components. What I did find today is the possibility it could be a radio resistor as called out in my Motors manual, 1 version of the fuel gauge had a provision for it though I don't know that I see any provision on the back of this gauge. My suggestion would be to bench test without the red part using the 6v battery from the car and starting with the old fuel sending unit hooked up as shown in the second picture. Third picture shows the numbering on the sending unit that corresponds with the terminals on the back of the gauge. 1 goes to 1 and 2 goes to 2. this assumes the sending unit resistor is correctly installed with the small end at number 1. Make sure the sending unit flange is level and grounded to the battery. I had a tough time getting a good ground at the flange. Carefully clean the points of the gauge by pulling bond paper through the closed set Gauge does not require ground but should be upright as if it were in the dash so the balance is correct. Set float on gauge up near the position it would be when the tank is full Use jumper wires to connect numbered terminals first Hook up power with jumper wire from 6v battery to Ign SW terminal on gauge. Give it a minute or 2 to warm up and start moving to full if it moves great If not check gauge ground and try it at a couple positions mine was touchy Move the float 1/4 inch to see if this gets a reaction Next position the float as if the tank was empty. You can measure the gas tank from the flange to the bottom of the tank to get the position. and see if the gauge responds correctly. If the gauge is responding but not accurately for the position of the tank float try hooking the 1 terminal wire to the 2 terminal and the 2 terminal to the 1 terminal repeat steps 4-8 if this does not correct the issue replace the old sending unit with the new sending unit and start testing from step 1 for the new sending unit This above testing assumes the gauge is good and the tests are quick and easy when done on the bench. if you cannot get good results then the gauge can be tested separate from the sending unit.

I walked away from a few projects when mice had taken hold and stunk it up not to mention the rust damage from piss. Sounds like you got it early but set some traps, if you find 1 there may be more around. Before I tore down my old 1-1/2 car garage I came home after a few weeks assignment to a bad stench in the garage. It was an old wood sided building, and the concrete was cracked and beat up. I had a few 5 gal buckets in there with tools and motorcycles. Buckets had bird seed in them at one time but the one had water for washing the cars. A chipmunk must have jumped into the one with water thinking he was going to get seed and I can imagine he swam in circles for some time before he went belly up. It was hot, he was swollen like a balloon that I was sure would pop open as soon as I picked up the bucket. I was inspired. I tore the garage down that fall and put up the new one with the help of a few buddies by Xmas.

Without any further pictures or info I would be guessing and that is not a good idea since the fuel gauge is a fairly delicate piece. I not sure what the round red part is myself or it's function without further information. I did a quick search here and found a wiring diagram for the P15 which does not appear to show the red part. That doesn't mean it is not required if say you are running some other modification or power different from original. The fuel gauge depicted in the diagram has a terminal 1 & 2 which would be the old-style gauge. If you can confirm your gauge has a 1 and 2 terminal designation it should then also have power from the ignition switch to the IGN SW terminal. This is why I requested a picture of the back of your gauge which you have not provided.

Jgreg, Maybe one of the other members here will recognize it from the picture. It does appear to have some markings or numbers that may be visible. I usually take some close-up pictures then view them on the computer where I can zoom in to confirm numbers and markings. Once I have the numbers, I google to get mor info on the part. I tried zooming in on your picture but could not make anything out. Also a shot of the backside of the gauge will help confirm the type of gauge and hook-up.

The Woodie shown wheels sunk from years of sitting and then cleaned up is great. My favorite is the 34 rumble seat coupe and I would love to see more pictures. I own a 34 PE and in comparison, the Dodge hood appears longer which may just be the lack of the louvered doors on the hood for air flow while the headlight buckets being stretched longer than those on the PE make it look faster just sitting still. Both of these slight differences really complement the Dodge just adding to those classic lines of these siblings. Does this car have a functioning roll down rear window and intact rumble seat as well? Welcome and thanks for posting

I'm not sure if this question is directed to me for something I posted or someone else but please provide a bit more detail so we can help.

My 47 WC has the stock thermostatic gauge, I am running 6v negative ground in my truck with a 6v alternator. My fuel gauge has a terminal for power from the ignition switch and terminals 1 and 2 that connect to their respective terminals 1 and 2 on the sending unit. It is working as it should. There is another style fuel gauge that came out around 47-48 that is different from the thermostatic type made by Moto Meter. I cannot speak to how it would work switching the polarity.

I sure enjoy the sight of a good salvage yard even if it is just pictures. "One man's trash is another man's treasure"

Dash fuel gauge doesn't really have any need for oil or have parts that would wear out from the extra swinging. Oil would actually cause issues I believe. There is set of points that you clean on some gauges if they are not working but yours is working so leave it alone would be my recommendation. Most issues are with the sender but yours is working as it should and swings with the sloshing of the fuel some.

My truck has been running great up till June of this year when I was out running around, and the truck sputtered and quit. My gas gauge never worked since I owned the truck but I was good about keeping it topped off and never ran out of gas. A sweltering hot June evening, a friend brings me 2 gallons of gas and the truck is running again. Up the hill I go but the truck slowly starts missing a bit if I push it so I baby to the next gas station and fill it up, but it only takes 3 bucks. It's tough starting but I get it fired off again and head for the house with the occasional miss. On the way home I'm thinking. I had a 6v Airtex electric pump on my truck the previous 8 years and then one day the truck shut off while idling in the driveway last fall. The pump was hot and I was running an inline glass filter and could see it had some air in it so I pulled the filter and when blowing through it could feel some restriction. I cleaned the filter as it is a serviceable one and reinstalled it and the truck was running great again. So my guess is the pump got hot again and quit but had some time to cool waiting for the gas can to arrive and then functioned just well enough to get me home. I had purchased a replacement 6v pump and a few 12v units after the issue in the fall so I was able to replace it the next day and so far no issues. So the moral of the story is had I fixed the gas gauge long ago I would not have assumed it was out of gas and checked the pump and filter under the hood I guess on that hot evening. What it means for anyone reading this is I'm passing on the info for the 6v pump I purchased which looks like it is still available on Amazon for about $34 bucks. So far pump is running well though a tad louder than the Airtex pump I don't notice it when the truck is running. Pump details say 4-7 PSI but I have had no issues with it so far if you chose to go with an electric fuel pump this one been going for 2 months now and gave me the opportunity to write some jibberish. ? Amazon.com: AUTOKAY 6 volt Electric Fuel Pump Fits for Buick 1927 to 1930 1931 1932 -can be assist or primary : Automotive

Some of these cars and trucks are likely hybrid models that work on electric power part of the time like as they coast up to a light and then start the gas engine when the gas pedal is pushed to accelerate up to speed before switching back to electric.

Here is a thread on this site that should help with the speedo chatter. Should be a wick to oil on the speedo according to this thread though I have yet to pull mine to oil it. If you do pull the bottom cushion to help with access under the dash then it is easy to check the fuel gauge sending unit which is directly under the drivers seat where you will see a metal plug that pulls up with a screwdriver to reveal the fuel sending unit. when I pulled mine the cork was gone.

I believe mine is original to the truck. When I pulled the sender there was no cork float present so I fitted it with the wine bottle cork in the picture and just came back from a ride. So far been a week and still working as it should but will see how long it holds up. Don't throw your old one out till your sure the new one fixes the problem.

It sounds like you pulled the sender and did a resistance check. Follow JRs above testing so you can determine if the gauge and sending unit are working with the sender out of the tank. I pulled my gauge when doing this test but you can get away with just pulling the sender. Set the sender flange up level on a something that allows you to position the sender float in different positions. Use some extra wire lengths to connect the sending unit wires to the gauge wires. Set the float in a few positions and turn the key on to view the gauge reading in the car. Give it 1-2 minutes to reach the full limit as it may keep creeping up. Check it with the float positioned at half tank, full and toward empty. Make sure the sender has a good ground connection. I found even testing out on the bench that I had to wire brush a spot on the sender to get a good ground before it worked. Stuff a rag in the sender unit whole to keep things out of the tank and any unwanted sparks from that opening. Picture below may not be identical to your gauge, but you should get the idea of makeshift positioning of sending unit flange and float for testing.

I'm not sure if you purchased the whole drum to drum rear end or just the center section. I purchased a drum to drum rear end with the numbers 1115941-7 on the center section that was out of a 1948 plymouth sedan for my truck. I just used the center section that I swapped into my truck to get better highway gearing. Based on the numbers I would say you have a mopar rear end from the correct timeframe. You can find out what gear ratio you have by locating the stamped numbers as shown in the pictures attached. The car rear end I purchased had the leaf spring mounts on the bottom though and my truck has the mounts on the top of the axle so be aware if you intend to use the whole rear end that you may need to relocate them if they don't match your car set-up.

I have Goodyear Wrangler SRAs on my 47WC original truck rims with no tubes and no issues. Been running this set for a few years. Radials really make a big difference on the handling of the truck compared to the bias ply tires.