Veemoney

Flatie, Glad to know you made it there and sounds like it was all positive , I like Merle still have it on my list. Merle, Thanks for posting the pictures, good stuff. Barber looks like an awesome place as well. I am located up by the WIS/IL border so no short trip. Below is one of mine, a basketcase I purchased from out by Davenport at least 20 years ago. Need to drive it more often.

And as promised the link for those interested with more pictures of the traditional "American Made Motorcycle" as it would have come from the factory. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23804/lot/223/ If you read through the article they mention Mr. Jim Gallagher and his bike #22. Jim was a friend and fellow collector who pass just a few years back short of Centurion status who loved restoring and driving the old 30s cars and motorcycles. "Wheels Through Time Museum" purchased most of his bikes.

Going with the original title here I will add a cool bike that is not mine but one I always considered one of the coolest. I removed the name from the tank in the picture but if you would like to read about it I will attached a link to provide the info.

Not a drop of oil under any of them? ?

Attached a Word file with the info you need for your truck. I pulled this from another site for my truck and did not author the write-up but it seems to provide enough information to build the wood components for 39-47 Mopar trucks. Good Luck. _BedWoodDimensions (1).rtf

Sorry all, I agree with rhelm 1953, Looks like straight shaft with no flexible coupler so it has to be a steering box issue if the pitman does not turn when the steering wheel does. The only exception would be at the steering wheel itself if it has a key or spline that is loose or worn.

There should also be a knuckle or rubber coupler between the steering column and the steering box that could fail and create a problem as you described. It is worth a check

My experience with an old 67 charger with the A100 axle set-up was plenty of bump steer and no power steering so a bear to parallel park. Those front axles sure look cool though.

I had issues in the past similar to yours (truck jerking and having to reduce speed to get it to stop jerking on my 47 WC. It was fine idling and taking off from the light but would start the jerking in 4th. I am thinking fuel starved after warmed up. I say this because you have not mentioned any backfiring at all. I would expect some misfire if the ignition was at fault while you were running. The fuel pumps pump at low pressure and it doesn't take much to restrict them. Below are my thoughts in the order I would check them for the fuel system If you have a fuel filter inline confirm you can easily blow through it manually. I could see gas in mine while running in the driveway but when I removed it and blew into it I could feel it was restricted and replacing it resolved my issues. I see you rebuilt your fuel pump but the issue could still be there. My truck is running a 6volt fuel pump now but 12v are also pretty inexpensive. you can bypass your pump and see if that resolves your issue. Did you check the float adjustment in either of the carbs or the needle valves. You did not mention if these were rebuilt or checked so if not confirm this. Good luck

The heat transfer benefits of sodium valves used on our flatheads is IMO the best way to go for our low rev motors used on the street if that is the way they are set-up. Just some FYI below. Some Chrysler hemi motors came with sodium exhaust valves. The sodium valves have a larger diameter stem and require a larger diameter valve guide and weigh more. For those power hungry builds on the hemi motors reducing the weight of the valve helps reduce valve float at high rpms. Reducing the diameters of the components projecting into the ports increases head flow.

Can't go wrong with the Optima. Now just enjoy that new ride.

Those older models had trouble starting, would kick back too besides leaving a mark when parked. That said you have to run what you got till you can upgrade.

Just a note on alignment. Getting it back to factory specs may create more of a problem since those specs were made for Bias tires and were likely using settings with positive camber and negative castor in many cases. Radial tires are a different animal. I use the specs below for radials on my mopars. Castor makes a big difference in handling. If you have a good alignment guy he probably does this for you. Driving style Camber Caster Toe-in Sunday Cruising -0.25° +1.5° 1/16" to 1/8" Daily Driver / Street -0.5° +2.5° 1/16" to 1/8"

I am waiting to see the front suspension but everything so far looks fantastic. I found that the old jeeps used front leafs that were a pretty close match when I was looking for replacements to use on the front of my 34 PD. Found them new and they were very reasonable.

That straight 6 will run smooth like a sewing machine, suggest you give it a try before you make the leap. Just my thoughts if you haven't tried it yet. Welcome to the board and good luck.

I agree with what has already been said. I will just add that you can measure the RJ18yc6 plugs as bent to give you the max depth of protrusion for plugs as you look for a new plug or shim combo. Just make sure to add some buffer margin.

Glad you got it worked out and running great again.

Like others mentioned check your gas lines and also check your vacuum line to make sure it is tight and no leaks.

My first check would be the fuel filter/s. Fuel pumps are low pressure and it doesn't take much restriction in the filters to starve your carbs as you move up in the Rs. Sounds like once you get to cruz speed and back off things settle down. I had a similar issue and pulled one of the glass inline filters off mine, noticed right away when I blew through it ( you should have no restriction) and cleaned it out. That solved my issue.

There is a dodge forum on yahoo for the 39-47 trucks that have some good technical info on this. The attached article is one I had pulled previously for myself _Converting Axels to High Speed.doc

Ed, I checked some of the online outfits where I purchase motorcycle batteries from but no luck. I got my last Optima on the bay for $114 about 18 months ago. I did see the same prices as you were finding but noticed advanced auto was offering 20% off which would get you down $37 bucks. Amazing how much they went up but they do pack the power. Good Luck

Nice cars all of them. I am partial to the 33-34 Plymouths and drive an old coupe regularly. That 30 Desoto is special. Desoto had a way to make a car look like it was moving fast when it was just sitting still.

In 2015 Earl quoted me "Heads are $850 plus S&H. I require a $400 deposit to order a casting from the foundry. Delivery is 12-16 weeks after I receive your deposit" The head is some nice bling but I just did not see throwing $1250 at the time for a marginal improvement in performance over a shaved iron head. Also I am not driving any show cars

Fuel filter or pump. It doesn't take much restriction to cause a fuel starving problem like your describing. I run a 6v electric and had a similar issue. Replacing the filter fixed the problem.

That turned out nice