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wallytoo

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Everything posted by wallytoo

  1. wallytoo
    97-mile round trip today to pick up the rebuilt front axle for my jeep. drove nice the whole way, and only used just over half a tank of gas, and less than one quart of oil leaked out. my gas mileage has been better recently, i must be doing enough longer trips at the right speed. last tank was 8.5 mpg. clearly, the truck was nearly overloaded. really taxed those helper springs!!
  2. wallytoo
    do you have the push pedal? that has a spring that runs from the toeboard to the bottom of the pad. the pedal should be linked to the arm on the starter. the spring prevents the arm from moving.
  3. wallytoo
    you could try soapy water. spray the vacuum lines and see where it bubbles. don't have to be moving, just engine on and shift the ranges.
  4. wallytoo
    bob (dodgeb4ya) is correct, you need at a minimum 3/4" drive tools for the big trucks. i bought a six point impact socket for the lugnuts and a budd socket for the inner rear wheel. both in 3/4" drive. also bought a 3/4" impact wrench. still, for initial removal of the lugs, you might find that a big 3/4" bar, with cheater pipe added for more leverage, works. i also have an extension for these, which works because of the depth of the wheel mounting surface. you will continue to break any 1/2" or 1/4" stuff, don't bother.
  5. wallytoo
    the willock swivel-frame is unique, but that's about all it offers.
  6. wallytoo
    you probably have a leak in the system, which is why it is "shifting on its own" while driving. i had a hairline crack in the vacuum tubing, in a place where it touched the frame. the symptoms were as you are experiencing.
  7. wallytoo
    if it makes you feel any better, my 237 has had a rod bearing knock for several years. it is the number 2 rod bearing, and i replaced it twice. the first time with the same size insert as on the other 5, the second time with a slightly oversize insert. in both cases, the knock went away for about 250 miles, but has returned. either i'll pull the engine and take the crank to a machine shop to regrind the rod journals, or i'll wait for the engine to put a rod through the side of the block and pull the engine and replace it with the 251 spare i have sitting on a crate in the garage. in all, i've put nearly 1,200 miles on it with the knock.
  8. wallytoo
    if the only help i can offer is to ridicule a non expert in automotive technical terms, i'd prefer to remain silent.
  9. wallytoo
    keep your chin up, mark. and don't spend much time paying attention to your former employer; it's a waste of time and provides nothing useful to you. move on to something better.
  10. wallytoo
    ridiculing someone for asking for opinions of others about possible sources of noise type, and their reporting of specific tasks to eliminate the noise, is not particularly helpful. lmao.
  11. wallytoo
    i don't have that perforated dome piece. not sure what effect that has on the functionality of the bypass unit.
  12. wallytoo
    that's where i bought the ones for my 237. about 1 hour away, too.
  13. wallytoo
    the problem is in the fact that the picture and description don't match. i have purchased an item on ebay based on the description (the picture wouldn't load), but ended up with something different (which matched the picture that loaded after the auction). that was a pita to resolve, and i'm not inclined to do that again. but, by all means, have at it. it's only money, and time.
  14. wallytoo
    i hate buying from sellers/suppliers that don't bother to accurately describe the product. "spin-on filter"? i think not.
  15. wallytoo
    i've got the numbers somewhere. as far as the axle, the object with 8 sides is essentially a pressed sheetmetal hubcap, threaded on the outside to screw into the drum. it isn't a bearing retainer; just a cover.
  16. wallytoo
    also note that it is 8-sided, not 6-sided. a standard socket won't work. i used a blunt chisel and hammer to tap them off. now, i install them hand-tight. they aren't going anywhere.
  17. wallytoo
    indeed, i was. i should have read your post more carefully.
  18. wallytoo
    the originals in the 25" blocks are hardened, according to a few sources. dodgeb4ya will know for sure, though.
  19. wallytoo
    it is. for adapting the speedo reading in a truck with a 2-speed rear. vacuum operated. that way the reading is correct when the gears are split.
  20. wallytoo
    i'd jump at $200. damn. i just got a quote to recore the cj radiator - $500 or more.
  21. wallytoo
    found it.
  22. wallytoo
    indeed. not only that, i seem to remember you posting a pic of yours (or your dad's). a 5.
  23. wallytoo
    yes. my '75.
  24. wallytoo
    yup. car ornament. i use one, too.
  25. wallytoo
    nice town wagon.
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