wallytoo

i'd like to be able to read that. but, in searching the ga dmv site, i cannot find any statement about registration of a vehicle sold to an out-of-state buyer in that buyer's state, using the georgia registration. only information relative to a georgia resident buying an out of state vehicle or a new georgia resident registration of a vehicle from another state. nh's dmv site, however, provides specifics to in-state, out-of-state, title-required, and title-exempt sales of vehicles. nothing in there about honoring a georgia registration as a means to registering it in nh (or maine, vt, mass, etc).

don't need a title, nor can you get one, for vehicles older than 10 years in nh (except commercial). so, that doesn't apply. nor does nh require a georgia registration for a title-exempt vehicle purchased from georgia. only a proper bill of sale and a signed vin verification form. that's it.

not sure i understand the point of the above post. are you claiming that another state must allow someone to register a vehicle that was registered in georgia in the new state? if that is what you mean, it isn't correct. the new state would honor that registration only if the vehicle were to remain registered as a georgia vehicle. that georgia registration plays no role in registering it in a new state. because i don't know all 49 other state reqirements, i won't say that none would allow it, however, none of the new england states would allow it. what is reqired is a proper bill of sale, spelled out in the particular state's laws, and submission of a vin verification form signed by an authorized agent. the geogia registration wouldn't be used at all to register it here in nh.

so that it will be illuminated when you use the lights.

it used to have triple bumper overriders. sheetmetal looks good.

my b-1-fa-152 is seven feet high to top of cab. it is also seven feet two inches wide at the rear wheels (widest point), and a shade under seven feet wide at the front fenders. didn't get the length, but figure on seventeen feet minimum from front bumper to rear of frame.

I can get those tomorrow - it was pouring rain here today. If the truck doesn't have a bed or dump subframe/piston, it probably only weighs in at 7000 to 8000 pounds. wally

mine weighs about 9500 lbs unloaded. it has a dump unit, so that incldes the dump piston, subframe, etc. wheelbase on mine is 152", overall length has to be close to 20'. no idea on the width, except that the dump body is wider than the truck, and is slightly over 8' wide. height exceeds 7'. wally

i figured you hadn't seen the later pics. i know you know these bigger trucks. wally

i'd say not a 2-speed rear. no shift button on tower, no firewall unit, no glovebox plaque, and the data tag indicates just a b-1-f. as to value, i paid $1500 for mine, and another $1000 to ship it from MI to NH. engine ran. now, the sheetmetal in my truck is not as nice as this truck, but it isn't horrible, either. yours has rust in the front fender down by the door hinges (mine are worse), and the door bottoms are rusting through (mine aren't). my cab is a deluxe cab, while this is a basic cab, meaning no rear quarter windows, no vent windows, no passenger sun visor. the running boards look really good (mine are, too). as a plus, this truck looks to have the "extra" sidesill on the rear frame for added strength (mine has this). truly, if the engine is able to be turned by hand through many revolutions, it wouldn't matter to me too much that it isn't running right now. it could probably be made to run, and run well. figure on another $2500 in machine shop work, new pistons, bearings, etc. brakes might need a total rebuild (probably do), so another $700 to $1000 there. if you start at $2700 for it as-is, one might still be looking at a total cost of $7200 or more just to get it driveable. this doesn't include new windshield rubber, and any other interior items that might be needed. again, nothing wrong with that, just that there is considerable expense to getting these on the road. parts are not as easy to find as for the 1/2, 3/4 and 1-tons, which are themselves more rare than chevy/ford. wally

i think it was frank.

i've looked through the classifieds fairly regularly, but haven't seen this truck here.?? and you are correct, for whatever reason, these don't tend to bring big prices. still, i agree that $2500 to $2700 is a reasonable price, especially without knowing the condition of the engine. good luck with sale, anyway.

i haven't had the same luck with mine. i don't need to lock it, but i'd like to be able to (just because the lock is there). i give it a shot of P'B every once in a while, but have had no luck (been doing it since i bought it back in 2007 or so). wally

if you have the serial number from the door post tag, it should also show the model on the tag. size-wise, i believe this is considered a 1.5-ton, but bob (dodgeb4ya) will have the answer on that. i've seen tie rod ends come up for 1.5-ton trucks on ebay time to time, so that is one place to check for those. don't recall seeing the tie rods themselves, though. wally

agree. should be able to pop the clutch pedal without feathering it at all. come to a stop, shift to first, hold brakes and let clutch out quickly. hit accelerator when ready to move. rinse and repeat.

i love bob's trucks. i wish i had a set of them, too. i have the single long-arm rectangle mirrors. they shake a bit, but work fine. they aren't really vibrating when using them to back up, since that happens at very slow speed. and dad's (now mine) b-3-c has the west-coasters. wally

shouldn't it just be deleted like last time? you know, to be consistent and welcoming to new members? and i'm not blaming the moderators for that, only the b*tchers.

very nice looking truck.

i certainly don't know. dad's b-3-c is fluid drive, but only 3-speed. i don't believe we ever changed the clutch on it back when it was in use, and it has been unused in the garage since 1987.

yes, the parking brake is a necessity on the fluid-drives. you'll just need to get in the habit of releasing the brake each time you get in the truck. i use the parking brake in EVERY vehicle i own, and i engage them every single time i park them - if i'm getting out of the vehicle, the parking brake goes on. make remembering to release the brake easier, since it becomes a habit. the driveline parking brake will wear out quickly if it is not disengaged. wally

my 1.5 ton does this on occasion, too. not fluid drive. i do just what don suggests. put it in second, and then quickly put it in first (actually, i put it in third, and quickly put it in second - first is too low to use without a load, even in a 1.5 ton).

does the air vent under it count?

to each their own (and i know you are just giving hank a hard time). but, yeah, i bought mine to use it.

i'd hope so. although when mine is freighted, it goes pretty smooth over the road.

not that it matters, but i'll do you one better. i don't own a cell phone. i've managed to make it for 47 years without one. maybe i can make it another 47?