wallytoo

mine weighs about 9500 lbs unloaded. it has a dump unit, so that incldes the dump piston, subframe, etc. wheelbase on mine is 152", overall length has to be close to 20'. no idea on the width, except that the dump body is wider than the truck, and is slightly over 8' wide. height exceeds 7'. wally

i figured you hadn't seen the later pics. i know you know these bigger trucks. wally

i'd say not a 2-speed rear. no shift button on tower, no firewall unit, no glovebox plaque, and the data tag indicates just a b-1-f. as to value, i paid $1500 for mine, and another $1000 to ship it from MI to NH. engine ran. now, the sheetmetal in my truck is not as nice as this truck, but it isn't horrible, either. yours has rust in the front fender down by the door hinges (mine are worse), and the door bottoms are rusting through (mine aren't). my cab is a deluxe cab, while this is a basic cab, meaning no rear quarter windows, no vent windows, no passenger sun visor. the running boards look really good (mine are, too). as a plus, this truck looks to have the "extra" sidesill on the rear frame for added strength (mine has this). truly, if the engine is able to be turned by hand through many revolutions, it wouldn't matter to me too much that it isn't running right now. it could probably be made to run, and run well. figure on another $2500 in machine shop work, new pistons, bearings, etc. brakes might need a total rebuild (probably do), so another $700 to $1000 there. if you start at $2700 for it as-is, one might still be looking at a total cost of $7200 or more just to get it driveable. this doesn't include new windshield rubber, and any other interior items that might be needed. again, nothing wrong with that, just that there is considerable expense to getting these on the road. parts are not as easy to find as for the 1/2, 3/4 and 1-tons, which are themselves more rare than chevy/ford. wally

i think it was frank.

i've looked through the classifieds fairly regularly, but haven't seen this truck here.?? and you are correct, for whatever reason, these don't tend to bring big prices. still, i agree that $2500 to $2700 is a reasonable price, especially without knowing the condition of the engine. good luck with sale, anyway.

i haven't had the same luck with mine. i don't need to lock it, but i'd like to be able to (just because the lock is there). i give it a shot of P'B every once in a while, but have had no luck (been doing it since i bought it back in 2007 or so). wally

if you have the serial number from the door post tag, it should also show the model on the tag. size-wise, i believe this is considered a 1.5-ton, but bob (dodgeb4ya) will have the answer on that. i've seen tie rod ends come up for 1.5-ton trucks on ebay time to time, so that is one place to check for those. don't recall seeing the tie rods themselves, though. wally

agree. should be able to pop the clutch pedal without feathering it at all. come to a stop, shift to first, hold brakes and let clutch out quickly. hit accelerator when ready to move. rinse and repeat.

i love bob's trucks. i wish i had a set of them, too. i have the single long-arm rectangle mirrors. they shake a bit, but work fine. they aren't really vibrating when using them to back up, since that happens at very slow speed. and dad's (now mine) b-3-c has the west-coasters. wally

shouldn't it just be deleted like last time? you know, to be consistent and welcoming to new members? and i'm not blaming the moderators for that, only the b*tchers.

very nice looking truck.

i certainly don't know. dad's b-3-c is fluid drive, but only 3-speed. i don't believe we ever changed the clutch on it back when it was in use, and it has been unused in the garage since 1987.

yes, the parking brake is a necessity on the fluid-drives. you'll just need to get in the habit of releasing the brake each time you get in the truck. i use the parking brake in EVERY vehicle i own, and i engage them every single time i park them - if i'm getting out of the vehicle, the parking brake goes on. make remembering to release the brake easier, since it becomes a habit. the driveline parking brake will wear out quickly if it is not disengaged. wally

my 1.5 ton does this on occasion, too. not fluid drive. i do just what don suggests. put it in second, and then quickly put it in first (actually, i put it in third, and quickly put it in second - first is too low to use without a load, even in a 1.5 ton).

does the air vent under it count?

to each their own (and i know you are just giving hank a hard time). but, yeah, i bought mine to use it.

i'd hope so. although when mine is freighted, it goes pretty smooth over the road.

not that it matters, but i'll do you one better. i don't own a cell phone. i've managed to make it for 47 years without one. maybe i can make it another 47?

don't need to convince me - i'm all for it. i'll even spend the money to do it.

pics of dad's 52 b-3-c fluid drive. was last driven, where parked, in his garage in 1987. thinking about suggesting my youngest get it back road-ready as a "senior project" next year. mostly needs rewiring, as electrical issues were the primary reason for parking it (much of the original cloth wiring was disintegrating, and although a previous owner had converted it to 12-v, with an alternator, it was still using the VR).

better, of course, being a matter of opinion, too.

normally the dash gauge doesn't like getting 12 volts. the in-tank sender doesn't care, 12 volts there is fine. no harm in trying to add the runtz to the dash gauge. it'll either work, or you toasted the gauge and it won't.

sounds good.

indeed, there will be many opinions, and as such, they are all correct (or all wrong). i appreciate a fully-restored truck and enjoy taking a look at them. i don't like them better (or less) than a functional truck that shows usage scars/wear. i probably have more appreciation for any truck that retains most of its "as-built" or "as available" condition, even if it has non-original parts in it. i have less appreciation for them the farther they diverge from that condition. doesn't mean i don't like the modifieds, just a different impact to me. mine is not original, but it is functional. i've added back-up lights (because i use it), converted to 12-volts (previous owner), procured non-dodge window winders to replace the non-existent/broken ones in my truck (they are period-available, just not dodge/mopar), added mudflaps, a non-period small tachometer, a functional temperature gauge in the speaker mesh, etc. like everything, there are degrees to modification. at some point, it is no longer a pilothouse, but rather a modified truck. nothing wrong with that, either, even if that isn't my own preference. if i could afford to, i'd love to make mine "new" again. i'd have no issue with putting in a generator and regulator to go back to 6v. i'd enjoy having "perfect" front fenders. but it probably isn't happening on my watch, because i don't need either of those to be able to use it for the reasons i bought it. wally

and yet some members (jb neal) get chastised for it, when the posts were, in fact, more on topic than posts by said chastiser earlier in the thread..... it's what's known as a double-standard. i get that this is a private board, and "free speech" doesn't apply. however, do as i say, not as i do sometimes makes it hard to figure out what is fair or not fair criticism.