wallytoo

no kidding. if it has all the parts, it would sure be worth taking a look at. you could even potentially swap the BH/trans/driveshaft to your known decent motor, and test it out. if it doesn't work, you'd still have your original driveline with no mods. edit, obviously the driveshaft won't work - from a car. duh.

so, the parts manual isn't wrong, at least for some axles. here's a picture of nate's axle, which doesn't show the ratio and here's a photo of my axle, which DOES show the ratio: either bob & nate have more scraping to do, or your axles don't have the ratio stamped in them. i don't know that bob's shows the ratio in the same place, anyway. doesn't appear to. wally

appears as though the "parts manual" is incorrect. those don't show obvious ratios. i'll have to scrape the grime off of mine to see what's there.

nate, you can email me a photo if you want: jeeps at tds dot net those numbers don't immediately jump out as being correct, as there should be only the 3 choices: 5.14, 5.83, or 6.33 wally

i'm sure that the OP's initial statement about "wanting to buy a new engine", which was also the title of the thread, drew the wrath of the net-nanny's (not the moderators, who are doing their job). a simple solution would have been to change the title of the thread to "engine troubles, why have i lost compression in two cylinders?", since that was the immediate direction the discussion within the thread turned [by those who wanted to help the OP, not berate him for mis-posting]. how nice for the nanny's to discourage someone from this particular forum, and hobby, because of a relatively common mistake [misposting or off-topic-ing]. the downward spiral of civil discussion brought to you by the nanny's who get offended so easily. glass houses, etc.

the distributor end fits in the slot on the oil pump shaft. therefore, it affects where the rotor is pointing. so if you've placed your plug wires in the same place, but the rotor is different, your engine will be out of time. that's why moving the plug wires on the cap one position, either clockwise or ccw, may help get your engine to start.

i'd never done it before i adjusted mine. removed the inner fender panel. used standard wrenches (not tappet wrenches). wore leather gloves and a "shop" jacket. it's easier than i thought it would be. took longer to remove the inner fender than it did to adjust the valves. edit: this was on a hot, running engine.

right. didn't figure it would be rapid. the ratios are obviously pretty low, considering the small displacement and narrow torque curve of these flatheads. anyway, if you get to the point where you remove the 2-speed/parts, let me know. even if it's 3 or 4 years down the road. wally

also, i'd be VERY interested in the 2-speed parts, other than the rear axle itself. and the engine when you swap it out. the tubing (mine is starting to rust through), the firewall shift mechanism/vibration damper, the axle vacuum diaphragm, etc. PM works if you want to discuss it. i'm in central nh. wally

nate, your rear axle is an eaton 1350 series. normal ratio was 5.83/8.11. optional ratios were 5.14/7.15 or 6.33/8.81. the ratio is supposed to be stamped on the top, next to the "peep hole plug" just behind the yoke. it'll supposedly have the higher (numerically lower) number, ie, 5.14, 5.83, or 6.33. that would tell you what you've got. wally

that linked truck is similar to mine

my truck, 1.5-ton nominally, easily carries that size load. i've had 3 tons of ice blocks for a load, and the same for cordwood.i posted a c/l link in the ebay c/l forum for you.

couple more pics. edit: i know the window winders are not original, none came with the truck. but i found some vintage ones that look decent and work. also, i had mine shipped from michigan to nh. granted, it was about 2007, and it cost about $1k with tolls.

i don't think there are any forums that specialize in the bigger dodges. this forum works pretty well, though, especially thanks to bob. mine's probably about what you want, as far as a place to start. it isn't pretty, the sheetmetal has been patched, it has a lot of bumps. the frame is almost perfect, though. i got lucky. this truck was highly optioned. triple overriders, two sun visors, 2-speed, fresh-air/heater, extra frame side-sill. if'n i were looking, i'd absolutely get one with the 2-speed rear end (which mine has). makes it much more road-friendly. i can cruise around 45 to 50 comfortably, still puts it under 3200 rpm. the later years in the p-h series have a bigger motor than my 237, but it works fine. the dump body is usefull, and as mike (fowler) points out, these trucks will carry WAY more, comfortably, than they are rated for. midwest is a great place to find one that has been in grain service on a farm forever. mine came from michigan. craigslist is a good place to look, too, using expanded search options.

nice triple set of bumper overriders, too. not rare, but not common, either. my '48 b-1-fa has a set.

i'm using a speedo cable in my b-1-f that i had as a spare from my 75 cj-5. most part stores should be able to hook you up on that. or, try 4wd.com or quadratec.com, both specialize in jeep parts and probably carry the cable (you can probably look it up on either website to determine cost). i've used both vendors many times over the years to keep my cj on the road. wally

i suppose i should show a pic or two of the cargo i picked up today, huh? not that it tested the limits of the truck at all.....bonus, i saw a bobcat cross the road in front of me on the way home. didn't get a pic of that, though. truck looks different...took off the sideboards for easier "from the ground" access. good place on the headboard for my load chains, binders, and tire chains, too.

a few pics from past winters, and today's trip to pick up an engine hoist. in the last pic, one can see evidence that the wipers work, and the defroster works.

don't let 'em get you down, jb. ivory towers, and all.

nice pics. however, annoying that perhaps two-thirds of the photos are posted two or more times (some at least 5 times).

with the booster, i can lock up all six wheels on my B-1-F. i doubt i could do it without the vacuum booster, unless i used extreme pedal effort (even then, i don't know). check the line routing carefully, though. they should run from the master cylinder, to the remote booster, then to the front & rear to the brakes.

another minor thing, a 1953 would be a b4, not a b3. b3 is for 51 and 52.

minor thing, not a b3bhha, more likely a b3hha. the second b would indicate a 1/2-ton. the "a" indicates the two-speed rear. spitfire may just be the head, i don't know enough about whether the big trucks received true spitfire engines (it's a 25" head, just as would be for the 237 and 251 engines). bob (dodgeb4ya) is the person to answer your questions about the engines and equipment on the truck. wally

if you are referring to the oil pressure gauge line, then no, no rubber for the trucks. steel line all the way from gauge to sender.

sounds like good news - hope it works out. hey, if you move there, even though it's hilly, maybe the pace/impatience is lower, and you could get away with what you have?