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wallytoo

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Everything posted by wallytoo

  1. wallytoo
    eaton 1350 2-speed. note that the air line and diaphragm are visible from the rear, another thing clearly not in the OP's image. don't confuse the midland brake booster with the vacuum shift diaphragm. booster is "centered", the diaphragm is partly visible at the upper left of the differential.
  2. wallytoo
    not with that "stepped" cover it isn't. the eaton 1350 has a "smooth dish".
  3. wallytoo
    where i used my ‘53 car ornament
  4. wallytoo
    that is the style of arms i have on my ‘48 1.5-ton. original as far as i know.
  5. wallytoo
    the information above didn’t provide any clues?
  6. wallytoo
    i like it. not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture.
  7. wallytoo
    i'm with merle. i wouldn't be surprised if the cab was swapped.
  8. wallytoo
    a 237 would also be a long block (25"). this is the that came in my 1.5-ton originally.engine
  9. wallytoo
    check the again, being sure it is installed correctly. it is possible to install it "backwards", which results in no pressure.oilrelief valve
  10. wallytoo
    i concur about the 1350. i love the one in my b-1-fa, it really does make the big more driveable.truck edit: i hate the auto-link bullsh1t in the text editor. it makes typing replies nonsensical when it jumps the cursor back to the front of the auto-linked word. stupid.
  11. wallytoo
    nice semaphore!
  12. wallytoo
    my roberts gasket is still working fine after 11 years.
  13. wallytoo
    mine came from NC; purchased it circa 1984.
  14. wallytoo
    could be the data plate from a '51, but the cab/nose is a '53. also, with the '53 bed, it seems more likely to be mostly a '53, rather than a '51 with some swapped parts.
  15. wallytoo
    lettering on the nose is also '53-only.
  16. wallytoo
    the fluid drive emblems are correct. the dodge lettering on the dash would also hint at a '53 instead of a '51. here is a photo of the plate a '51 should have (my '52).
  17. wallytoo
    i don't know of a disc conversion, but i can assure you that the brakes in the 1.5 ton trucks work very well. i've hauled some 4-ton loads in mine, over some steep roads; braking was never an issue. the cylinders can all be rebuilt. the drums are harder to source/replace. the triple overriders are a nice feature on yours.
  18. wallytoo
    that ^^ probably works well to set them initially. the "hot" adjustment is much easier than it appears; i'd never done it before, but i was able to adjust all on the running engine. tappet wrenches make the job even easier, but it can be done with a normal combi-wrench.
  19. wallytoo
    ?? the 6v horn will work fine on 12v. my truck was converted to 12v, and has the original horn, which works great, and has since i bought the truck in 2007.
  20. wallytoo
    there is no "cherokee wrangler". two different platforms.
  21. wallytoo
    the front fenders and extensions on your truck are in excellent condition.
  22. wallytoo
    the brake cylinder & diaphragm behind the gas tank is a midland booster. it was not for trailer applications, it is part of the original braking system. with the booster, the brakes on your truck will work VERY well; no need for disc brakes up front. the original axle was an eaton 1350 2-speed, vacuum operated. if you look closely, you can see the vacuum shift diaphragm on the rear differential. closeup of the numbers on the case of my 1350.
  23. wallytoo
    good point. overall diameter should run from 35 to 38" max, ie, 8.25x20 is a 36.5" diameter.
  24. wallytoo
    they weren't widowmakers; they used a lock ring, which is different. ford used the split rims (widowmakers). clearly, your wheels are swapped in, which is fine.
  25. wallytoo
    not beer, but wine...
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