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wallytoo

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Everything posted by wallytoo

  1. there are a few parts that you'll need, including a fitting to fit on the carb for the vacuum source, along with all of the hard lines leading back to the axle. fwiw, the original 2-speed equipped trucks also had a special speedometer that also had a vacuum fitting, so that it would still read correctly when shifting the axle. additionally, you'll need a shift button/pull cable to actuate the "shift", usually mounted on the gear selector tower. the cable runs to a diverter mounted on the firewall, which is plumbed into the piping between the carb and the axle. don't forget the vacuum diaphragm on the axle itself.
  2. very nice truck.
  3. i believe what bob is asking is “what solved the no-start issue”? was it oil added through the plug holes? something else? give us some data.
  4. bringing on old thread back up - since the ice harvest happened today after a one-month delay. didn't have my truck with me this year, though. however, i found a youtube video about the ice harvest here with my truck in it from 2017. truck makes its appearance from 5:13 to 5:27 in the video...not my video, don't know the person that posted it.. 2017 ice harvest video - with my truck in it - youtube and some pictures from 2017 as well...
  5. can't help you with what might interchange. your truck is equipped with the auxilliary side sills to beef up the frame.
  6. eaton 1350 2-speed. note that the air line and diaphragm are visible from the rear, another thing clearly not in the OP's image. don't confuse the midland brake booster with the vacuum shift diaphragm. booster is "centered", the diaphragm is partly visible at the upper left of the differential.
  7. not with that "stepped" cover it isn't. the eaton 1350 has a "smooth dish".
  8. where i used my ‘53 car ornament
  9. that is the style of arms i have on my ‘48 1.5-ton. original as far as i know.
  10. the information above didn’t provide any clues?
  11. i like it. not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture.
  12. i'm with merle. i wouldn't be surprised if the cab was swapped.
  13. a 237 would also be a long block (25"). this is the that came in my 1.5-ton originally.engine
  14. check the again, being sure it is installed correctly. it is possible to install it "backwards", which results in no pressure.oilrelief valve
  15. i concur about the 1350. i love the one in my b-1-fa, it really does make the big more driveable.truck edit: i hate the auto-link bullsh1t in the text editor. it makes typing replies nonsensical when it jumps the cursor back to the front of the auto-linked word. stupid.
  16. my roberts gasket is still working fine after 11 years.
  17. mine came from NC; purchased it circa 1984.
  18. could be the data plate from a '51, but the cab/nose is a '53. also, with the '53 bed, it seems more likely to be mostly a '53, rather than a '51 with some swapped parts.
  19. lettering on the nose is also '53-only.
  20. the fluid drive emblems are correct. the dodge lettering on the dash would also hint at a '53 instead of a '51. here is a photo of the plate a '51 should have (my '52).
  21. i don't know of a disc conversion, but i can assure you that the brakes in the 1.5 ton trucks work very well. i've hauled some 4-ton loads in mine, over some steep roads; braking was never an issue. the cylinders can all be rebuilt. the drums are harder to source/replace. the triple overriders are a nice feature on yours.
  22. that ^^ probably works well to set them initially. the "hot" adjustment is much easier than it appears; i'd never done it before, but i was able to adjust all on the running engine. tappet wrenches make the job even easier, but it can be done with a normal combi-wrench.
  23. ?? the 6v horn will work fine on 12v. my truck was converted to 12v, and has the original horn, which works great, and has since i bought the truck in 2007.
  24. there is no "cherokee wrangler". two different platforms.
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