wallytoo

on my gasket from roberts, i installed using a light coating of blue rtv around the entire glass/rubber interface. no leaks in over 12 years.

that was probably back when i first bought it, in 2007. in person, it is a bit rough; fine by me, as i use it year round here in northern new england.

i bought, and installed, mine from roberts years ago. has worked well ever since. if you zoom in, you can see that the center bar had yet to be installed for this picture. i installed the glass from the outside as i recall.

i don't recall the floor seams being sealed on either of my b-series trucks. if i were to attempt to seal the floor, i'd be more likely to try a felt/welting instead of a permanent sealer.

agree about fuel delivery. i will say that both the old motor - a 237 - and the new motor - a 251 - start better when hot than cold. it was and is instant, and always has been. when i push the starter pedal, the engine is instantly on if the truck is warm or hot, as in less than half a second.

honestly, i haven’t noticed this at all. i’ve got 10 years of driving my b-1-f and 21 years driving my cj5 as testament. both are equipped with mechanical pumps on the block; both have delivered fuel consistently when there was fuel in the tank - important to clarify because i have run out of gas in both multiple times over the years. i now have working fuel gauges in both. electric pumps fail. the in-tank pump in my DD ‘87 4runner failed 7 times in just over a year. the last one was installed in 2016, and has 40k miles on it.

that’s where they go. i don’t recall any others, but there might be another pair needed. not 8, though.

#1 is not a crank bearing, it’s the rear main seal. the small plastic parts fit in a groove on the block on either side of the rear main bearing cap.

nice clip. my b-1-fa could use that.

glass in the cabs is the same for all sizes. cabs themselves are the same each year, too.

a year late, but nice trucks, hayden and goddom! this is my ‘48 b-1-fa-152 that i recently got back on the road after almost three years with a blown motor...

another 100 miles in the last two days (61 today). running excellent. got my volvo 240 repaired by replacing the cam plug, will be nice to be back getting 22 to 25 mpg instead of 4 to 6 mpg...

since my three other vehicles were out of commission (head gasket, transmission, rear cam plug), i had to drive the dodge for work today. i adjusted the timing a bit to 2* atdc, and it ran much better; cooler, with more power. put around 60 miles on it with no issues. glad i got it back on the road, or i would have had to drive the 4runner with the bad transmission...

anything is possible, such as doors swapped to wing/non-wing, etc. however, the '52 standard-cab b-3-c my dad purchased in 1983 has vent windows. nothing to indicate they weren't original to the truck when he purchased it. truck originally came from north carolina. note the red under the door card matches the red of the cab roof, while the remainder of the truck (dash, lower door & exterior) was painted maroon/burgundy. edit: in looking at Bunn's book, my '52 is a deluxe cab rather than a standard cab, as it has electric wipers, the dome light, and dual wing vent windows. so, merle was correct. according to Bunn, the deluxe cab didn't come with cab corner windows. a custom cab would also have the driver armrest, cab corner (quarter) windows, and dual sun visors, too. also, the standard/deluxe/custom "standards" changed from 48-50 to 51-53, with some gains and losses depending on which level was chosen, ie, cab corner windows for deluxe and custom 48-50, but only for custom 51-53, and dome light/electric wipers only for custom 48-50, yet for both deluxe and custom 51-53. etc.

the rear 1/4 windows were an option, not a standard item. fwiw, my '48 b-1-fa has them. not that the quarter-windows are particularly useful in my truck....can't see a whole lot out of them. my '52 b-3-c doesn't have them.

both the 237 that blew up and the 251 transplant start about the same. overnight or longer, and it takes two tries to get it to run, with a little choke and the throttle knob pulled out a bit (not much). two quick hits on the starter pedal, and it runs. later in the same day, even after cooldown, it will start instantly with no choke or pedal application - literally just have to touch the starter pedal to engage the starter, and the engine is running. less than a half-second of starter run-time.

i don't see a distinction in that image that one or the other is for a specific brand of filter. the only thing i see is a distinction in the location of the inlet and outlet passages of the filter housing. both "pathways" appear to show that the oil is filtered from the "inside to the outside" if one follows the arrows depicting flow direction.

how high are you trying to pump fuel up from the can? as they sit in the truck, the fuel from the tank pretty much reaches the pump via gravity, and all the pump does is push fuel from there up to the carb. asking it to elevate fuel from a low position might be too much.

looks solid; perfect for DD duty!

same for my b-1-fa

my b-1-fa dwarfed by a 70s diamond reo.

probably. hasn’t been on the road for at least 5 years.

it does dwarf mine. but, my cab is wider!!! it was fun, when we hit pavement after the gravel section, he really got into the throttle on the diamond and the smoke screen from that detroit was awesome. absolutely obliterated my view of anything beyond the cab of the diamond.

more photos from the "parades":

yeah, i linked to the post above in THIS thread.