wallytoo

jeff, i thought that the truck 4-speed normally had a synchro for 2nd, but not 1st. clearly i was mistaken. i don't know, the more you describe the conditions you have to drive in, the more i think you should just f* it wheel it (FIWI). 2nd gear starts should be fine, so what if you don't accelerate like a corvette? drive it as is for a while longer yet, and don't let the nitwits bother you. wally

jeff, can you use second more to start off with? especially taking advantage of the fluid drive? going into third & fourth should be fine, right? you just don't get to downshift into second so easily. man, i'd try a lot of things before switching to an auto tranny. wally

jeff, any reason you cant drive in the stop/go traffic using third to start? especially if you leave it in third while braking, and don't use the clutch? i used to drive dad's 3/4-ton with FD using just 3rd, no clutching. and i took my 1.5 ton for a cruise today, too. made a trip to the dump and to the liquor store. wally

nice doodlebug (and dodge, too).

jeff, i assume you mean the grand cherokee m/c with booster won't fit in the position of the original dodge m/c, yes? it is not impossible to use a booster with the original m/c, however. many of the 1.5 ton and larger trucks were fitted with a remote vacuum booster and the single-chamber m/c (mine has this). the vacuum booster is located to the rear of the cab, inside the frame rails, behind the fuel tank. although not [likely] offered in the 1/2, 3/4 or 1-ton trucks, i wouldn't be surprised if it was possible to retrofit a "bigger" truck vacuum booster to one. wally

adjusting the valves with the engine running is not hard. i was able to accomplish it using "normal" wrenches and feeler gauges. i did wear gloves, because several of the valve adjusters are behind the exhaust head pipe, and all are just below the exhaust manifold.

carb should be a b&b.

yeah, i'm aware of the differences in the b1/2 vs b3/4. but paul has a b3, and the truck pictured is a b3/4. so i am unsure how the cab he wants to buy is different from the cab he has. especially since he doesn't show a picture of the inside.

it would potentially help if "we" knew what it was that you've tried as far as posting pics. i typically use the "more reply options" button, and then hit the "browse" button (under attached files) to search my computer for the pics. select the pic, then hit the "attach this file" button. done.

the wiper location looks the same as the wipers on my dad's b-3-c. different from mine (a b-1 series). from what i've seen, most of the dash is the same, too. same gauge layout, same speaker cover, same radio delete, same glove box. drip rail looks the same to me, too. ??

cabs are the same. i believe the hood and grille are, too. but not the fenders.

it would be surprising if the "local" guys could produce brake drums for that truck. the wheel cylinders, sure, but the drums? unlikely.

the "strip" centered above the windshield was for a set of clearance lights (probably 3). if you can get the brakes functioning, you will have no problem stopping, even if freighted. there are rebuilders for the brake shoes in nh (i took mine to sanels, they probably subbed them out to a jobber). you asked about value. relative to "pickups", these big trucks end up selling for less.

no need to stop posting, bob. you are a terrific source of information and knowledge about the larger trucks. and, when you do make a mistake, you are really good about correcting it. i am greatly appreciative of your contributions. wally

truck looks to be in decent condition. if the frame is good, you can probably do fine with it in stock form, or minor changes. a common swap is to use a cherokee rear axle for highway friendly gearing.

not recent ones.

The F wheels will also accept 8.25x20 tires. (perhaps the 6" wheels only?)

sounds like it's "luck of the draw" no matter where you buy from. i got mine from roberts, and it fit fine. i used silicone in the groove and it hasn't leaked since installation several years ago (and the truck is always outside). the rubber covers the pinch weld better than the photos from the OP.

concur about the vacuum shift. the 1350 in my 1.5 ton is lightning fast. once i figured out how to split shift, it made driving the truck a whole lot better (hi to low or low to hi is easy, but going from 3 hi to 4 low, or 3 low to 2 hi takes a little practice). especially important when it is loaded, and trying to go up a hill.

yeah, the clutch pedal rubs on the floorboards, so it squeaks when it gets depressed/released. after years of driving it, i don't even hear it anymore.

short youtube video from this spring. yes, with the ipad, it was "sideways", so it is narrow - oh well. if you listen, you can hear the difference between gear shifts and 2-speed shifts. https://youtu.be/JFMPRd3Ml-M

i'd suggest a search about the cowl vent seal, and it's installation, there are several threads and discussions on this site about it. no cable or other connection to the dash, it is operated by the under-dash handle. unless you really do mean the fresh air vent, which is used for the under-dash heater, and is located on the passenger side of the firewall. this IS cable operated, and goes to a knob on the dash - it would be an optional console added to the bottom of the dash. there is no handle associated with it, though, which is why i assume you really mean the cowl vent (especially since you mention the difficult to reach screws and rubber). good luck with the wiper pivots, probably not easy to find.

the bench seats do get a little tiresome during extended driving, but for a few hours, not a problem. nice to see that honda still makes a comfortable seat - the most comfortable car i've driven was an '87 accord. i could drive that for days, pushing 700 miles each day, without back issues. my later '95 subaru was not comfortable if going more than about 4 hours, while my '87 4runner is decent for about 6 hours. wally

you also made the new issue of Vintage Truck, as the first "letter to the editor". wally

yes, someone did.