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wallytoo

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Everything posted by wallytoo

  1. wallytoo
    don't let 'em get you down, jb. ivory towers, and all.
  2. wallytoo
    nice pics. however, annoying that perhaps two-thirds of the photos are posted two or more times (some at least 5 times).
  3. wallytoo
    with the booster, i can lock up all six wheels on my B-1-F. i doubt i could do it without the vacuum booster, unless i used extreme pedal effort (even then, i don't know). check the line routing carefully, though. they should run from the master cylinder, to the remote booster, then to the front & rear to the brakes.
  4. wallytoo
    another minor thing, a 1953 would be a b4, not a b3. b3 is for 51 and 52.
  5. wallytoo
    minor thing, not a b3bhha, more likely a b3hha. the second b would indicate a 1/2-ton. the "a" indicates the two-speed rear. spitfire may just be the head, i don't know enough about whether the big trucks received true spitfire engines (it's a 25" head, just as would be for the 237 and 251 engines). bob (dodgeb4ya) is the person to answer your questions about the engines and equipment on the truck. wally
  6. wallytoo
    if you are referring to the oil pressure gauge line, then no, no rubber for the trucks. steel line all the way from gauge to sender.
  7. wallytoo
    sounds like good news - hope it works out. hey, if you move there, even though it's hilly, maybe the pace/impatience is lower, and you could get away with what you have?
  8. wallytoo
    jeff, i thought that the truck 4-speed normally had a synchro for 2nd, but not 1st. clearly i was mistaken. i don't know, the more you describe the conditions you have to drive in, the more i think you should just f* it wheel it (FIWI). 2nd gear starts should be fine, so what if you don't accelerate like a corvette? drive it as is for a while longer yet, and don't let the nitwits bother you. wally
  9. wallytoo
    jeff, can you use second more to start off with? especially taking advantage of the fluid drive? going into third & fourth should be fine, right? you just don't get to downshift into second so easily. man, i'd try a lot of things before switching to an auto tranny. wally
  10. wallytoo
    jeff, any reason you cant drive in the stop/go traffic using third to start? especially if you leave it in third while braking, and don't use the clutch? i used to drive dad's 3/4-ton with FD using just 3rd, no clutching. and i took my 1.5 ton for a cruise today, too. made a trip to the dump and to the liquor store. wally
  11. wallytoo
    nice doodlebug (and dodge, too).
  12. wallytoo
    jeff, i assume you mean the grand cherokee m/c with booster won't fit in the position of the original dodge m/c, yes? it is not impossible to use a booster with the original m/c, however. many of the 1.5 ton and larger trucks were fitted with a remote vacuum booster and the single-chamber m/c (mine has this). the vacuum booster is located to the rear of the cab, inside the frame rails, behind the fuel tank. although not [likely] offered in the 1/2, 3/4 or 1-ton trucks, i wouldn't be surprised if it was possible to retrofit a "bigger" truck vacuum booster to one. wally
  13. wallytoo
    adjusting the valves with the engine running is not hard. i was able to accomplish it using "normal" wrenches and feeler gauges. i did wear gloves, because several of the valve adjusters are behind the exhaust head pipe, and all are just below the exhaust manifold.
  14. wallytoo
    carb should be a b&b.
  15. wallytoo
    yeah, i'm aware of the differences in the b1/2 vs b3/4. but paul has a b3, and the truck pictured is a b3/4. so i am unsure how the cab he wants to buy is different from the cab he has. especially since he doesn't show a picture of the inside.
  16. wallytoo
    it would potentially help if "we" knew what it was that you've tried as far as posting pics. i typically use the "more reply options" button, and then hit the "browse" button (under attached files) to search my computer for the pics. select the pic, then hit the "attach this file" button. done.
  17. wallytoo
    the wiper location looks the same as the wipers on my dad's b-3-c. different from mine (a b-1 series). from what i've seen, most of the dash is the same, too. same gauge layout, same speaker cover, same radio delete, same glove box. drip rail looks the same to me, too. ??
  18. wallytoo
    cabs are the same. i believe the hood and grille are, too. but not the fenders.
  19. wallytoo
    it would be surprising if the "local" guys could produce brake drums for that truck. the wheel cylinders, sure, but the drums? unlikely.
  20. wallytoo
    the "strip" centered above the windshield was for a set of clearance lights (probably 3). if you can get the brakes functioning, you will have no problem stopping, even if freighted. there are rebuilders for the brake shoes in nh (i took mine to sanels, they probably subbed them out to a jobber). you asked about value. relative to "pickups", these big trucks end up selling for less.
  21. wallytoo
    no need to stop posting, bob. you are a terrific source of information and knowledge about the larger trucks. and, when you do make a mistake, you are really good about correcting it. i am greatly appreciative of your contributions. wally
  22. wallytoo
    truck looks to be in decent condition. if the frame is good, you can probably do fine with it in stock form, or minor changes. a common swap is to use a cherokee rear axle for highway friendly gearing.
  23. wallytoo
    not recent ones.
  24. wallytoo
    The F wheels will also accept 8.25x20 tires. (perhaps the 6" wheels only?)
  25. wallytoo
    sounds like it's "luck of the draw" no matter where you buy from. i got mine from roberts, and it fit fine. i used silicone in the groove and it hasn't leaked since installation several years ago (and the truck is always outside). the rubber covers the pinch weld better than the photos from the OP.
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