TodFitch

Access to your spouse's measuring spoons but they are hiding the kitchen scale from you? As long as you are in the kitchen rummaging around through the drawers, check the refrigerator. The butter in mine comes in 4oz bars/sticks and I am guessing that it is about the same density as the grease they originally called for, so imagine 1/4 of a stick of butter for sizing purposes.

For WW1, it seems that unless you were a divinity student, you were not exempt or deferred from the draft by virtue of being a college student: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_Service_Act_of_1917 For WW2 there were a whole lot more classifications including, it looks like, student deferments: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_Training_and_Service_Act_of_1940

During WW2 lots of universities repurposed themselves to provide technical training for the military. If they did that during WW1 too, then it would explain the military uniforms and the U of M caption.

Coastal cars, that is from places right on the ocean can get very rusty. Not too long ago I saw a mid-60's Dodge pickup out by Point Reyes that was more holes than metal. Now a car that has spent its life a little inland is a different matter. But just because the area has a reputation for being dry doesn't mean the cars found there can't be full of rust holes. Times and demographics are different, but in the 1970s when I was first looking for an vintage car I was a resident of Arizona. At that time many of the cars from the 1930s I looked at were in pretty rusty shape and it finally dawned on me why: There was almost nobody living in and thus buying cars in Arizona in the 1920s and 30s. Many of those 1930s cars I saw made their last gasping trip as old rusty car from some snowy, salty state to deliver their owners to Arizona. Park them in a junkyard for a few years and now you can market them as "Arizona cars" and people won't even consider that they may be rust buckets.

We have our home phone with a "voice over IP" (VoIP) provider that allows us to create white and black lists on how to handle incoming calls. That helps a lot. But they also have a a spam indicator and a telemarketing block. Between the two, most telemarking calls never get far enough to ring our phone. The ones that do I put into our personal blacklist and report as spam to improve the spam call filter.

I think he has replaced the previous owner otherwise it wouldn't be his car. Concur that the lines, if not replaced relatively recently but either BobB or some previous owner, probably need to be attended to.

Back when I was first getting involved in old cars in the 1970s there were some old folks who would tell me "a 'coo-pay' is a car, a 'koop' is where you keep chickens". Way back when there was a S.A.E. guide to body style names. It seems to have been largely ignored by the marketing people at all manufacturers, I guess the marketing people figure that engineers don't know how to market. Basically what Ford called a Tudor and Chrysler called a Two Door Sedan was, by SAE standards a coach. Starting in about 1935 built in trunks became available for sedan models. Plymouth called them "touring sedans" to distinguish them from what is sometimes now called a "slant back" but what was then still called simply a sedan. Originally it was pretty easy to tell a "two door touring sedan" from a coupe but as time passed and car shapes morphed it sometimes became difficult to tell the difference. Anyway, a pre-WW2 reference I has says of the S.A.E. body nomenclature:

FWIW, quartz-halogen bulbs typically put out about 40% more light for the same power as incandescent. As mentioned earlier in this thread, neither quartz-halogen nor incandescent bulbs are polarity sensitive. You could actually power them from AC rather than DC and they'd work just as well. Recently I came across a link for a fellow in the UK who is making LED replacement bulbs that will fit the original 1930s bulb and reflector headlight sockets. Pricy but I might order a set to see how they work on my '33. The quartz-halogen bulbs I have in there now were picked to be the same wattage as the incandescent bulbs they replaced so that I did not need to worry about overloading the generator or headlight switch. If these LED replacement bulbs pan out then I'd actually be drawing less power from the electrical system than anything that has been run in it including the bulbs from the factory. Since LED replacements are starting to come out, I thought I'd do a search for ones to replace the old PAR-56 sealed beam headlight bulbs. Nothing came up on my first couple of tries but I bet that it is only a matter of time before someone makes them.

This is true. But it also seems true that the only real way to fix the engine/drivetrain on a car built in the last 15 or maybe even 20 years is to check with a ODB2 tool to see what codes are being reported. And some technicians are smart enough to dig through a whole list of codes and figure out what the real issue is. For example, a little while ago my 2004 Prius died. I checked the codes on it and top of the list was one that said MG2 (or maybe it was MG1) was bad. MG in this case is "motor-generator". There are two of them and they, along with a planetary gear set, are basically the transmission of the car. Cost of repairing/replacing a transmission is basically enough to total the 13 year old car. The technician looked past the top error code and found the crank sensor on the gasoline engine had failed. That failure meant the engine would not start, since the engine is started by the motor-generator the computer blamed the motor-generator. In the end, it was a couple dollar part along with a bill for diagnosis and labor.

FWIW, I picked up a copper L from the then local hardware store. Picked one that had the right O.D. to match the I.D. of the radiator hose. A bit shorter than the original but you cut the two pieces of straight radiator hose to match anyway. Painted the outside black to make it less noticeably copper. Did that back in the 1970s, still using it and nobody notices that it is not original.

Hot spots on your radiator may be significantly cooler than the hot spots at the back of the head. . . You might want to check the head temperature around where the sensing bulb is located. If you have a coolant circulation problem in the block (years of gunk building up in the water passages) you might have cool temperatures in the radiator while the back of the block is overheating. Meters/feet, kilometers/miles, Celsius/Fahrenheit . . . Both work, it is just what you get used to. FWIW, I've switched to mentally using meters/kilometers when hiking and camping because the UTM grids on the USGS topo maps are basically a kilometer grid but I still think of elevation gain and loss in feet. On a recent trip to Europe it only took a day before I could glance at the temperature and decide if it was going to be cool, warm or comfortable.

Something like this? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHST11

Assuming something like a 80 or 100 amp-hour battery and a couple amps for the ignition system if you are not running lights, radio, etc. then you should be able to run the truck all day, maybe even two or three days. Longest I ran a car with a car where the alternator failed in the middle of the desert was about 200 miles. I've talked with others who were able to complete a 1000 mile trip by pulling the battery each night and fully charging it in the motel room then running all the following day.

Not a very big infraction. I'll move this thread to the truck side where it may have more viewers.

I don't see a copper washer/gasket for that location in the '36-'48 parts book nor do I see any specific wording in the '46-'54 factory service manual, so I am guessing not. You should probably look in a '52 specific set of parts and service books to be sure though.

I hadn't seen or heard of this style intersection before. Interesting take on the problem. Looks like it might work pretty well once all the local drivers get used to it.

Also, DOT 3 ("regular") brake fluid is a pretty good paint remover while DOT5 is not. They smell different too but I've no way to describe that in a way that would be useful.

I just created a community event for this. Link to event is, I think http://p15-d24.com/calendar/event/20-national-chrysler-club-meet/

Nice photos, thanks! And the location of water jacket core plugs is quite a bit different than for my '33 Plymouth block so I'll keep my mouth shut about where they are next time this topic comes up.

I think the one "under the clutch housing" is actually a plug for the end of the oil gallery and/or camshaft. On my '33 there is a cooling system plug on the block above the bell housing. I was able to get access by pulling the front floor boards. But they redesigned the block in '35 so my experience with my '33 may be slightly different than for later engines.

This thread has already been moved to the truck side. While there are differences, a lot of of information is applicable to both cars and trucks and this topic seems like it may fall into that category.

Not sure what has changed for you. I usually click on the little circle or star near the top left of the topic to be taken to the first post I've not read. That is still working for me. I haven't tried clicking on the time of the most recent post, so maybe that is changed while the method I use is not.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumbaya#In_politics

The shops in my area that cater to bigger trucks can still handle straightening solid axles. My car happens to have a tubular axle and that gave the people at the place I took my car to some qualms but I was willing to accept the risk and they were able to properly straighten the axle (which should be done cold). All in all, it was not a big deal. Too an hour or so and did not cost a lot of money (I don't recall the exact cost and I had it done nearly 20 years ago so no doubt the prices have changed). Getting the axle straightened made a big difference in how the car handled, how much the tires were wearing, and was well worth it.