TodFitch

Depends on the original throw away filter: I've seen them with 8,000 and 10,000 miles on the label. And the operator's manual for my car, does not give a replacement interval but rather says to remove the return line when the engine is at hot idle and check for a flow of clean oil. An quicker and cleaner way to check is simply put your hand on the canister after a long drive: If it is really hot then oil is going through it and it is probably still good. If it is only at the general ambient temperature of things under the hood then it may be clogged up and need replacing. Note that the sealed canister type are depth media (basically packed full of cellulose fiber) while the replaceable element filters are a paper surface type media. For bypass filtering, a good depth media is, in my opinion, better than a surface media. Assuming 10,000 mile replacement and 2,000 miles driving per year, the sealed canister should be good for 5 years. Roberts still sell them with a current price of $45. So that is $9/year, a price I am willing to pay. And buying 6 of them should save on shipping and will get you 30 years worth of coverage.

Last I checked, you are not a moderator on this site. The moderators see a slightly different set if items in that pull down. But the question remains: If a post is reported to the moderators, do they (the moderators) see a red notification icon on the top of the page or do we have to periodically check the moderator control panel.

I'm pretty sure that Bon Ami and Bar Keepers Friend have identical stuff in them. If you grocery store doesn't stock one it will undoubtedly stock the other. Not sure why you have to order from Amazon for something you can pick up the next time you buy groceries.

Looks like there are up and down triangles on the left above and below a number. I think that might be how to vote a post up or down. I haven't looked to see if you can sort the reply list for topic by the voting. . .

Sonoran Desert where you are around Tucson is quite a bit greener than many areas in Nevada and California east of the Sierra.

Maybe the wiper arm pivot points too.

If you read his post from last week, the old version of software was no longer being supported by the vendor and to keep the nefarious out you want to keep up to date with all the security fixes.

If you are not putting a filter on it, then I'd at least remove that line going from the main oil gallery to the filter return and plug the openings in the block.

The Fram website says that was replaced by the C134PL on December 19, 2005. The C134PL was, in turn, was discontinued May 23, 2014. I can't come up with images that I am sure are for that filter so I can't say that it was the disposable sealed canister type. FWIW, Roberts claims to have the sealed canister oil filters available: http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/oil-filter-throw-away-sealed-cartridge-1

What was the last thing you changed/fixed before it started acting up? That would be the primary culprit. When it dies, have you checked for spark? Have you checked for gas in the carburetor (air cleaner off, accelerator pump squirts gas)?

If/when we meet in person, I guess I owe you a drink. Never got a card though, so maybe I am not bound by the rules.

Sounds like a turtle question.

I get the grilling part, but how do you catch a lizard with a propane torch?

180° out is an easy fix without touching the oil pump: Simply remove the distributor hold down screw, raise the distributor a little bit, rotate the rotor 1/2 turn, plop the distributor back down, reinstall the hold down screw, move the spark plug wires and reset the timing.

Sorry, but I am not in charge of operating their front door so you can't see the fire equipment inside. It says "fire station" on the building, does that count? If so then an easy one: An old Mopar at an auto parts store.

http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#53553

For a '38 Plymouth which uses the 77671 bleed screw with SAE 7/16 fine threads, my notes say that part 1263929 is the replacement. And 1263929 crosses to a modern NAPA replacement part is UP 11410. See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group5#5-T And: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/UBP11410/UBP11410_0205232810?interchange=1

Hmmm. Maybe they changed them over the years my car uses the 77671 bleeder screw but it looks like they changed on the cars in '39 to 691471, to 854039 for 40 and 41. P15s changed again to 1123005. Here is the whole setup, and my "dust screw" is definitely a fine thread. For comparison, the hex cap screw above my adaptor is 1/4-28 and the one below is 1/4-20.

As noted by dpollo, you can simply unscrew the original style bleeder and screw in a new one. The only trick to that is that there are a bunch of bleed screws available nowadays, so you need to match up the thread, length and taper. Even so, a good auto supply store should have them in stock. FWIW, that small bolt in the middle is listed as a dust cover or dust screw and is a 1/4 inch fine thread. Since I want to retain those on my car, I bought a 1/4 find thread cap screw (bolt), drilled a hole down the length of it and pressed in a small tube. It is a pretty easy operation to remove the dust screw, screw in my adaptor, push on a hose and bleed the cylinder. Probably only adds 30 seconds to the operation and since bleeding the brakes is a pretty rare operation it really is not a bother. The only bother is finding the adaptor after not using it for years. The biggest thing for making the bleeding a one person operation for me is having made a pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer.

The ones I am aware of near me are set back from where you can get a car to. So getting a photo of a vehicle with the memorial being recognizable is tough.

If it is an older heater motor with a field coil instead of permanent magnets, then you don't need to reverse the leads on it. But you will need to reduce the voltage to it. Or you can find a 12v motor with the same (or close enough) form factor to swap in.

If it is built like the one on my '33, yes there is a bit of adjustment. But. . . Chances are with 1/4" to 3/8" play at the tire you have a number of worn items. As Robert suggests, a careful inspection and repair/replacement of all out of spec parts may be needed, not just a drag link adjust.

Lots of threads on this topic. Also an article in the tech section. And I have my own write up on my web site.

Changed over the years, but the OEM design on my '33 uses brass nuts on the manifold studs. Means that I never have to go through the pain you did as the brass nuts will not weld themselves onto the stud, etc. If putting the original manifold on, remember that the torque setting for the fasteners is quite low: The manifold has to be able to expand and contract with temperature or it will crack and if you tighten the fasteners too much it can't move.

FWIW, NapaOnline lists shocks for 1938 Plymouths. The are listed as from the "Rare Parts Chassis" product line and are not cheap. Also, FWIW, the new NapaOnline does not seem to have my favorite old feature: The ability to look up things by Chrysler part number. Finally, my '36-48 parts book shows different shock numbers for front versus rear. Also different numbers if you have different size wheels. I assume the ones listed by Napa are for the more common 16" wheels.