TodFitch

Welcome to the forum! You haven't been here long enough to know the rules but one of them is that any parts requests need to be in the classified ads area. The website owner is pretty strict about this point. I'm leaving your first post in this thread intact but you will want to create a want ad for the parts you desire.

This thread is about to get locked due to uncivil behavior. . .

They didn't publish torque values back then. Earliest I've seen were from the very late 1930s. A couple of choices: If the bolt/stud sizes are the same as a later Chrysler engine, go with the torque values for the later engine. Not sure when specialty steels started to be used for higher tensile strength fasteners, but if you assume a fairly low grade material you can look up standard torque values in a machinist's handbook. For what its worth, my '33 Plymouth engine has no contemporary torque values available either. But since it is very similar to later Plymouth engines I generally use the numbers I find for the later engines. See: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

Also, at least on my car, there is a core plug above where the bulb fits in the head. You can remove that and then get some pressure behind the bulb to help extract it without having to pull on the capillary tube. Glad the instructions on my web site will be of use to you.

I am sure that someone on this forum works or has worked in fire fighting in brush environments and will know far more than I on this, but . . . Back when I lived in a brush fire prone area I joined a group associated with the sheriff's department to assist in some of issues arising from brush fires. Primary duties were to observe and record all the vehicles and people leaving the fire area (helping generate a list of arson suspects). But on one fire I ended up being a spotter radioing in observations about the fire front in one area. It was quite enlightening. At least for the conditions I observed, the fire spread more from falling and blowing embers than anything else. Seems like mote around a building would do nothing to protect against embers falling out of the sky or being blown into the building by the fire driven wind. Seems like fire resistant construction with a good sprinkler system (needing, of course its own pump and emergency power supply) would do more than a mote.

I am wondering if momentarily taking the foot off the accelerator every 30 seconds or a minute would be enough to refill the vacuum tank. . . Works for me on my vacuum wipers when climbing a long hill, especially if it has been a while since I put Rainx on the windshield. That is maybe the work around would be a change in driving technique rather than a change in equipment.

Nice restoration work! But I wonder where/if they actually drive it. . . I was in the Delhi metro area and in Agra earlier this month and that sure isn't a place I'd want to drive. Near as I can tell lane striping, when it exists, is for purely decorative purposes. One way indications, including on dual carriageway roads, seems to be advisory only. And use of horns provides the information about vehicles around you since obviously mirrors, etc. are not to be trusted. And, of course, the cows have precedence. Fortunately the cattle are usually either slow or stationary so you don't need to worry about them running into you and they seem much more mellow and undisturbed by noise and traffic than I'd expect of any cattle in the US.

On the old car when the key is off, the light switch off, etc. there is draw on the battery. A decent battery should hold its charge for quite some time. On the new car, nothing is really ever off. The keyless entry system is always listening for a key, the infotainment system is keeping its clock powered, etc. Any car like that will eventually drain the battery if it is not started. The question is how long will it take. I was expecting it to be good after three weeks and I was wrong. If I don't put a trickle charger on it, I should at least pull a battery cable off if it is going to be parked for a while.

I think that when you replace the entire drivetrain, including converting from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive, you can't really call it a Prius anymore.

My 2004 Prius died when a trash truck backed into it: The repair cost was more than the 14 year old 200+K mileage car was valued at. Got a 2017 Prius Prime. So far averaging about 84 MPG with it, current tank is over 110 MPG. And it qualifies for the car pool lane stickers which helps if/when I have to get somewhere on a freeway. I suspect feed and care of a horse would exceed the cost of a trickle charger, especially since I already have a trickle charger left over from a different application. Not sure the neighbors in this fairly densely developed beach town would appreciate a stable either.

Got back from being overseas for over a couple of weeks and needed to stock up with fresh food. Went out to the garage and the 2017 was dead (-1 points). Hopped in the '33 Plymouth, cranked it on over and it fired up in a couple of seconds so I drove it to the market (+1 points). New car has a ton of electronics that are always on and being a hybrid the 12 "aux" battery is quite small so it apparently did not have enough capacity to last without the car being started in a couple of weeks. I guess I need to put a trickle charger on it if I'm not going to be driving it for a while.

If I recall correctly, a bolt's length is correct if 1 1/2 threads extend past the nut. Or in this case, threaded portion of the drum. Not sure if a 3/4 inch long bolt would be long enough and am pretty sure 1.5 inch would be too long. Pretty easy to mount the wheel on the drum with the drum off the vehicle to check. I would error on the long size and be prepared to cut it too length if there is a clearance problem.

If you come up with cross references from the original Chrysler numbers to aftermarket equivalents, especially ones currently available, I'd like to add them to my database at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric When I started the parts were focused on 1933 Plymouth only, but it now covers 1928 through 1948 and I am not adverse to extending further. I am not a vendor. Just a hobbyist who has been collecting cross reference information since I got my car 45 years ago.

And when might that have been? There has been a recent uptick in automobile related deaths, but both the total number and the number per 100,000 population is lower now than when the station wagon you show was new. https://injuryfacts.nsc.org/motor-vehicle/historical-fatality-trends/deaths-and-rates/

In general mild steel tubing would be better than copper as copper work hardens with vibration and may fail quicker. The setup Don shows seems like a good solution, steel tubing most of the way, especially around the hot parts of the engine, and then rubber to allow flex near the distributor.

Keep in mind that the a number of the serial number listings show the 1949 P15 production as having occurred in 1948. With that in mind, the books I have indicate: Serial Number 12070743 Found in range 11854386 to 12116123 Serial 216358 of 261738 Year 1948 Make Plymouth Model Name Special DeLuxe Model Code P15C Plant Detroit Engine 6 cylinder 217.8 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 117 inches

I assume "fine tune" means the odometer is okay but the speed is off. . . In my youth I attempted to adjust the speedometer in my Plymouth and ended up breaking more than I fixed. I finally took it to an old time automotive instrument shop to have the damage I did repaired. I think I could do better now as I am more inclined to study things more rather than bull ahead. But those are fairly delicate instruments that are easy to break. And it would take a bit of thought and work to setup a workbench where you could calibrate it. End result, I concur with dpollo on this. If I assume wrong and the odometer is off, that implies someone changed out some gears somewhere or changed the wheel/tire diameter and then greg g's suggestion of a correction gear box added to the cable might be appropriate.

No preformed lines are available that I know of. All the fittings where tubing attach are standard double flare.

Last two sets of tires I've gotten have problems fitting in the metal cover. My solution is to deflate the tire, install the cover on it such that the filler stem is in top. With the whole spare tire and cover assembly mounted on the car, reach behind with an air chuck and fill the spare.

One problem with soldering a connector on is that some solder will wick up the wire making it stiff and subject to fatigue failure. If I recall correctly, the aerospace factory I worked at right out of college all connectors were crimped. But, and this is a huge but, they had specific crimping tools for each application and the tools were sent for calibration and adjustment on a very regular basis. Since I don't have that type of equipment, just a higher end retail customer type wire crimping tool, I lightly crimp the connector on mostly to hold it in place long enough to solder it. And I take care to keep the heat on the connector, not the wire, to reduce the amount of solder that wicks into the wire outside the connector. So far, I've never had a failure of a connector I've attached this way. At another small company I worked for some of the original designs had lots of connectors and individual boards to hold the electronics. Experience showed that the most failure prone parts were the connectors. On later designs we got a much more reliable product by reducing the number of separate circuit boards (and thus the associated connectors) as much as possible.

On the car side, for a lot of years they used part number 103894 for the "steering knuckle king pin oil seal plug". That turns out to be a 1 inch expansion (freeze/welch/core) plug. See http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18#103894 Last I checked, the cross was to a Dorman 550-012. Maybe the trucks used that too.

Near as I can tell, first year for hardened exhaust valves on Plymouth was 1933. I'm pretty sure the entire stable of Chrysler, DeSoto, Dodge and Plymouth had it by then.

https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=14/33.4304/-117.3069 Looks like an interesting area for an old car drive. And not horribly far from where I am. I'll have to explore in that direction. It looks like it winds in and out of Camp Pendleton. Do you cross checkpoints that require ID, etc. on the way? Thanks!

Nice! What road is that in the first picture?

Welcome to the world of intellectual property laws. Near as I can tell the new rule is that Mickey Mouse rules: As long as Disney (and other big media companies) can lobby to keep anything written, drawn, sung, etc. after Mickey Mouse was created from becoming public domain they will.