TodFitch

There is WiFi and then there is WiFi. . . On your home setup you should be using WPA with a good strong password. Last I heard, that is reasonably safe against people eavesdropping or gaining access to your network. I strongly recommend that you use a "password safe" of some sort and have long random unique passwords for everything. You only need to remember one password then, the one for the password safe. I happen to use KeePass as there are versions available for all the different type of operating systems I use and it is open source (free and security researchers can examine it for flaws), but there are other password safes or wallets with good reputations. Using a password safe, nearly all my passwords look something like 0lHKSENc5sYJqY2jhxN1pAFwyoMynm5W (not one I really use). I can't even type it in looking at it but computers are good at cut and paste. All I have to remember is the password to the password safe and then get the login information from it. Witn an "open" WiFi, like those found in cafes and other public places you need to be very much more careful. Many devices remember what WiFi networks they have been connected to and broadcast that information when looking for a place to connect to. So if you've connected to the public WiFi in, say, McDonalds others with appropriate scanning software will know you've connected to that in the past. If you habitually connect to the WiFi in the shops and restaurants you visit, your phone might be advertising that information. And with that information, a nefarious individual could create a fake hot spot that your phone (and maybe lap top depending on OS) will automatically connect to. At the very least, go into your settings and tell your phone to forget the open WiFi networks you've connected to. I run some software that uses the GPS and blocks my phone from announcing networks that are not in the area. So if I connect to a McD WiFi, my phone will only announce that if it is near the original specific McD that I connected to. Check your Play Store or App Store for an app like that. It will help keep someone within range of your phone from learning the names of fake WiFi networks they could create to fake your phone into joining. Secondly, if you are connected to an open WiFi (no password needed to connect), everyone in that area can listen in to what your phone/computer is doing. I've installed VPN (Virtual Private Network) software that I use which encrypts everything in and out of my computer so the person sitting at the next table "working" on their laptop can't monitor what I am doing. If you don't feel comfortable setting up this type of security, then I'd advise not using public WiFi hotspots at all.

I should have thought of that about the possums that were in the crawl space of the house we bought and then immediately had tented for termites.

Factory service manual reprints are available and will cover the procedure for checking and adjusting the choke.

Others have already explained the EL6-5544 bit, but did not specifically specify that it was used nationwide including in California. My grandfather's house in Southern California had a number that started with HY4-xxxx ("Hyatt 4"). In Arizona, the first number I remember as a small child started with "MAin 4". I suspect many smaller towns/cities had only one exchange which could well be the "main" exchange.

I vote that it counts. What is the next photo?

I think the '33 Plymouth and Dodge engines are pretty much the same except a larger displacement on the Dodge. I believe that '33 is the first year this might be true. (For a while after Chrysler purchased Dodge they seemed to keep the older Dodge stuff in production and until '33 the Plymouths all shipped with four cylinder engines.) On the bottom of my spare pump there is 600797-14. The general appearance is the same as the later pumps for internal bypass but the pulley and hub are one piece and the inlet to the block is rectangular rather than the half-moon of the '35 and up pumps. If you are trying to verify the engine is correct, the first letters of the engine number stamped on the block above the generator mounting bracket should tell you that. I'd have to look up the Dodge model engineering codes but I suspect it would be something like DP or DO.

I've had a water pump rebuilt recently by Gould (Arthur has apparently passed away and his son is doing the work now). As knuckleharley wrote, no complaints other than the price. To answer Don's question in advance: The '33 and '34 pumps have a different casting and water inlet to the block, so getting a new manufacture pump is not possible.

An aluminum patch on steel panel is by its very nature a short lived band-aid as they are dissimilar metals and the galvanic action will promote oxidation.

Definitely! The coil is not designed for 100% duty cycle and can overheat if just left with current running through it all the time.

Then-N-Now Automotive, also known as Antique Auto Parts Cellar is my "go to" place for the thermostatic spring. Its my understanding that they are the ones that get them made and supply the other old Mopar parts vendors.

I think so. You will also notice it in some of the movies from the 1930s.

Some of the vintage replacements had an adaptor that would clamp the coil and then bolt into the firewall.

I would not run straight weight oil, especially as heavy as 40, on a freshly rebuilt engine. 10w-30 ought to be good for all but the warmest weather. If you are really worried about it being too thin, go for 20w-50. You want the multi-weight oil to get everything lubricated quickly on start up.

+1 to all this. From experience, it doesn't take much of a visible leak to get to losing 1qt every 500 to 1000 miles.

Not as big an issue with automatic spark advance and more than 4 cylinders, but you should be careful: Wrap your fingers and thumb around the handle the same way (don’t grip it with your thumb going the other way as is natural) so that if it kicks back it will pull itself out of your hand. Always do a pull up rather than a push down. If it kicks back it will pull out of your hand. If you are pushing on it and it kicks back you can break your arm, shoulder or worse. FWIW, I have started my car with the crank just to see that I could. But nowadays about the only thing I use the crank for is turning the engine over with the plugs out to get the static timing mark on the flywheel aligned with the pointer on the bell housing timing cover ('34 was the last year for that, they moved the timing mark to the hub pulley on the DeLuxe for '34 and all models in '35).

Yep. I don’t know how much they varied over the years or between the early cars and the later trucks, but here is the one for my ’33 Plymouth.

Seems a lot of vehicles suffer from PO. . .

I've heard that enough sludge can accumulate at the back of the valve lifter gallery to form a dam which will retain some oil. I've not seen this on my engine, but if true then I guess the oil pooled there could leak out around the draft tube, especially if there is no gasket. With a gasket, then I wouldn't be too surprised to have it leak out the draft tube. Where does that hose go? For the Venturi effect to work and actually get some crankcase ventilation the end needs to be in the air flow under the car. If the hose just stops at the level of the frame then it is unlikely to being doing anything worthwhile.

In my limited experience (having only worked on one old Plymouth), by the time a thunk noise is heard due to u-joints the inside of the housing where the ball slides back and forth will have a worn spot that you can feel as you run your fingers across it. It would not surprise me if the front and rear wear slightly differently which could then allow you to get some more miles by simply flipping the driveshaft but that is likely to be a short term fix. Again, in my limited experience, it seems that if you keep the boots in good condition and follow the lubrication/maintenance schedule the u-joints will last a long, long time. Basically they are primitive CV joints and like CV joints seem go indefinitely as long as the boots are good but will fail rapidly if there is a boot issue.

Looks like it is for checking the clearance inside of a tunnel or other areas where loading gauge might be an issue.

I removed the answer for you.

If I am reading the parts book properly, that would be the “Distributor Terminal Slot Cover” with has the same part number from the 1936 P1 through the 1948 P15 (might be others but that is what my book covers). The original part number would be 648029. Parts Voice shows two vendors who claim to have that part: https://www.partsvoice.com

Library local to the area of the old dealership should have copies of the papers they probably advertised in which might have some photos. And the library should have a copy of the business directory for each year which should give the addresses of the dealer. In my case, I've been unable to get copies of the local paper over the Internet but did find a business directory which had an address. Here is the street view: https://www.google.com/maps/@43.1591276,-77.5665731,3a,75y,252.86h,85.9t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s0cYcTQPqr9UOAGx-csbP7w!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1

It could be that the tape you used is the problem. There is a brass fitting that screws into the head. That has pipe threads on the outside which, when replaced might need some sealant (I prefer pipe dope over tape). You probably did not remove that fitting but you also may not have verified that the seat in the bottom of it is clean and smooth. The bulb slides into that fitting and the ring around the bulb should seal against the seat within the fitting. Dirt, debris or damage to the bulb or seat can cause a leak. The gland nut, where you have some leaking, presses the bulb against the seat to make the seal. The machine threads on the gland nut need no sealant and use of it there might keep the nut from properly pressing the bulb shoulder against the seat. I'd verify that the seat the bulb presses against is clean and smooth. If not, clean, repair or replace. And I'd remove that tape from the gland nut, so it is free to do its job.

There is lubricant inside the vacuum wiper motor if/when it dries out the motor will work poorly if at all. When vacuum wipers first appeared, it was considered a yearly maintenance item to lubricate them. Not sure if that was still true by the 40s or 50s, but it is likely that a NOS wiper would need to be at least lubricated if not disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled to work well. For what it is worth, I use air tool oil on mine. But I don't lubricate it every year as I am too lazy to disassemble the interior pieces above my windshield to get at the motor, it doesn't rain that much where I live, and when it rains I typically have my car in the garage. Your later car has the motor under the dash which presents different access problems. Here is how you lubricate one of the 20s/30s style vacuum motor where there is one motor per blade: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/wiper Not sure how you do it on the later motors, but I imagine you can find a procedure someplace on line.