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BobB

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  • Content Count

    148
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About BobB

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alabama
  • Interests
    Family, work, and driving my new truck.
  • My Project Cars
    1952 B3B Pilothouse and a 1939-47 job rated 1-ton - year to be determined

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Bought a '52 B3B five window in March 2013 after wanting a pilot house for 35 years
  • Occupation
    Aerospace Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    Family, old trucks

Recent Profile Visitors

1,435 profile views
  1. Know what would be really helpful? If we could compile a set of photos describing each heater model that we’ve found. Especially the location of the mounting studs and the tubes into and out of the core. If those of us who have restored a heater or two would prime the pump by sending information on a model or two, we could get a valuable resource together fairly quickly for the more common models. Then people could add rarer models as they are found. I’ll try to find the picture before I installed the heater in my B3B. I’m looking for a heater for my WD21,
  2. There are a number of parts places that specialize in classic Dodges, but I find most of the parts I need on EBay. In fact, I found my 1952 B3B on EBay. A couple of the parts places to get you started: Andy Bernbaum/oldmoparts.com, DCMClassics.com, rock auto. There is also a part of this website dedicated to finding/selling parts. Welcome to a fantastic site.
  3. If you’re doing a truck rather than the panel, I’d recommend a five window even if it’s starting condition is not quite as good. Those corner window are just a defining characteristic IMHO.
  4. Recommend you watch e-bay for a while. The parts are out there. I found several as NOS. The ones that aren’t are survivors in great shape. Bob
  5. WELCOME!! This forum has so many knowledgeable participants as well as a treasure trove of archived discussions. We’re looking forward to more pictures. Bob
  6. If your hood is nice and shiny, you can see the light change without looking up. Guess that wouldn’t work for the patina folks.
  7. Another thing to check since it is what took mine out: the bolt that holds the points in place can loosen allowing the points to rotate enough that they never open. That prevents proper firing for sure.
  8. Good Guess I’ve just seen too many requests for my bank info from obvious scammers. Thanks for setting me straight. Bob
  9. I would be very concerned about their payment terms. Have my bank cut a certified check to them, yes. Give them access to my bank account, never. You could be out much more than the $500. Unless you have a burner account that doesn’t have any other funds in it, I wouldn’t do it. I’d rather drive to their location and hand them cash. Just my two cents. No part is worth that risk.
  10. Wow! Autotype can certainly make an interesting sentence. Mine is 85.25” to the outside of the treads. It’s more like 85.75 to outside of the tire body. Hope that helps. I look forward to making some progress this Spring/Summer on “Big Frank.”
  11. Well, I’ve made exactly zero progress on the one ton, but I certainly get you a measurement. Mine has came with no bed, but the rear end doesn’t appear to have been modified. I’ll get out and check it once it stops storming here in north Alabama. Regards, Bob
  12. Just a quick note to warn you about the line that connects the two rear cylinders. If you don’t get it tucked down flat enough, it will make contact with the drum. It it only takes half a mile to wear through the line and dump the fluid. Ask me how I know. Unless you’ve upgraded to a dual cylinder, that event will make your brake pedal useless. That’s when your emergency brake come in really handy - hope the T-handle is well oiled though it’s amazing how hard you can pull when you’re that motivated. This forum has a great supply of really knowledgeable peop
  13. I'm having the same problem with my B3B. Can't seem to find the built-in short that causes it to go off all the time when I make the final connections at the horn. Pictures noting the place/connection that's tricky or a description of "the trick" would certainly be appreciated. Have to agree with the comment in the Additional Information that proper alignment of the spokes is quite difficult. I'll gladly give up on that, though, if I can get a working horn that doesn't work until called upon. Bob
  14. So that’s your definition of a dirty garage? Can’t speak for others, but I’m thinking more like “boy that’s a lot of space” than “ I spy something that’s out of place.” That looks better than mine after a good cleanin’. Congrats on the GREAT find.
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