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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. Backwards. You take the car hoghead with gears all assembled and drop it in the truck axle housing with possibly only changing the spider gears on it. Externally change the driveshaft flange.
  2. The 47 is when the cab was designed. That tag on a 41-47 truck starts with 41. The next 2 numbers I believe are the type of cab not the size of truck. So a panel or a cowl only would have a diff #
  3. Some cars have a stud that goes in that spot for the throttle linkage to pivot on.
  4. Remind me next week if no one else chimes in. I've got books that should show it but I'm aware for the weekend
  5. Roberts or bernbaum should have those gaskets. FYI they go around the glass not the full housing so if you haven't taken the lights apart you might have them and not know it.
  6. I've got one wheel of unknown origin that has the factory clips and it stamped 15x6. I do wonder if later trucks came with wider 16s?
  7. I've heard others say that too but we're quite happy with both of our Kia's. I have my wife's old 07 and she has a 14.
  8. Someday when I have spare time I'm likely to switch my truck 3.90 with my plymouth coupes 3.73. The car has overdrive so the 3.90 would be better in there
  9. I've got a 3.90 in mine but I built it that way-wasn't a swap out. Somewhere way back I remember reading that of you aren't switching by at least .5 it's not worth it or very noticeable
  10. There are three levels. The recirculating heater and then either single or dual fresh air heater. Sounds like you have the cheapest model or an aftermarket heater.
  11. With the fresh air heater(with either single or dual cores) there are 2 levers for the venting. One opens the cowl vent with would force air into the car while moving. There is then a second lever that opens a lower door allowing the fresh air to blow straight in. If that lower door is closed the outside air is forced through the heater. With that lower door open nothing would stop some air going to the cores but most of it should flow straight through and out.
  12. I'll still need to remove to get some anti squeak of some sort installed but I stuck the fenders on to see how it looked.
  13. What are you getting done at the machine shop? I would think they would tank the block for most things and undo your painting and possibly the frost plugs too.
  14. Modern bolts yes. Or flatheads no. I'm using used bolts in both of mine and they are fine. Just inspect for rust and defects.
  15. How deep is the bell housing? That's the big clue for fluid drive. The fluid drive housing is substantially deeper. I also don't think I'd give up on the original just yet. Pull the timing chain and see what's stuck. There is a lot of gunk in the one bore you pictured but nothing looks dead
  16. There is a flat spot at the top of the pumpkin right on the edge where it mates to the axle housing that should be stamped with the ratio.
  17. Yes and don't find out like I did after I'd already installed the diff and then my axles wouldn't fit. Dad swapped my side gears from the original diff and it's been trouble free for about 20k miles.
  18. That should be determined by how many shims you have between the axle housing and the backing plate. What is between there?
  19. It does and it's actually stamped into the front mount
  20. From what I recall a plain gate was an option. We had one 39-47 Dodge that came with a plain gate. It was clearly original
  21. The front mount goes under the water pump down to the frame. The rear mounts go to the side of the bell housing out to the frame. The actual rubber pieces go between the piece that bolts to the bell and the frame mount. If you go to the truck side you can likely find some pictures. I think I posted some in my 47 Dodge turkey truck build thread
  22. If they aren't tight enough the drum will shift on the key when going forward and backwards. When I first built my 46 pickup I had an odd noise like a little ping when starting out. I quickly figured out it was only starting out after having gone backwards. The drum shifting because the nut wasn't right enough was causing it. Luckily the only damage was one key.
  23. There is a torque spec I believe 168 lb ft and then you go tighter until the cotter pin lines up. That being said I have typically just rattled them on hard and then put the pin in.
  24. Ebony stain with two coats of flood deck oil. I was trying to protect it as much as possible while making it look old. Hoping it looks like someone dumped used motor oil on it like some guys used to.
  25. It's amazing how much more it looks like a truck now!!
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