Young Ed

Unpleasant surprise this spring the cabin water heater stopped heating at all. Goggling says the upper thermostat controls both and is a common failure. So yesterday I ran up there with one and still don't really have hot water. If you hold your hand under the hot and then the cold you can feel a little difference but it's still far from even warm. Unfortunately I didn't think to grab a thermometer. Buddy that was with managed to get a really ancient volt meter going and we confirmed power at the top thermostat and element. Nothing to the bottom which according to one article we found is expected. So time for new elements? Hoping to get this right as it's 120miles to the cabin and once their the closest good sized hardware store is 50miles.

I have the dodge version that I sent to the guys making the LED taillights. They were going to copy it and start making some.... But that was like 15 years ago and I haven't seen or heard anything in years. May never see that piece again

Yes I've got dual heaters in mine too. Should have a pass side one too maybe just can't see it

Hop over to the truck forum and post a pic of your project. No such thing as a 47 pilot house so determine what you have before anyone can help with parts ideas

I've seen them called U nuts J nuts or clip nuts

I made mine with material from JoAnns. Basic grey and maroon.

Most of them don't care. The P15 one I had is an oddball that does

Not the fan blower motors in my 48

I've only got about $10 in my /6 conversion but I was lucky enough to find a complete junkyard setup. It's currently working but long term I'll probably upgrade some of the parts. Personally I'd rather have something made by an OEM and having a chance at buying parts in the event of a breakdown

Interesting apparently they moved it from my W series trucks. The first two are the year of cab design and second are cab style. So a panel truck should have a different code. My 46 and 47 are 4112. I am a little unsure why that one is 4712 and not 4812 though

Cab number tag. Should go next to your serial number tag

Nope that's the got cutoff in traffic model horn ring. My car had one too

I may have participated a day early.... I finally got around to installing the driver's side A pillar piece. I was never happy with how the pass side one laid out so I put the other off. Decided to see how the heat gun handled that stuff. Pretty quickly you can mold it to shape. So I fixed the pass side and trimmed up the driver's. Also wire wheeled the running board mounts for turkey truck and slapped on some rust coating.

You're battery tray looks 10000 times better than the one I made. I might have to try again

Sounds like this just comes down to reading the bottles. The stuff I was using I believe Valvoline changed about two years ago and specifically said it wasn't safe for those metals. The product pictured above says it is safe so I wouldn't hesitate to use that.

When I swapped front to back from pilot house to WC engine I had to do pickup and pan.

I'm running the Mopar module that I grabbed out of the junkyard along with the distributor. Back to the original question -I checked and I don't have the original thread saved

I've done it. But it's in my project truck and it runs but I have 0 road miles with it.

4.1 was standard with 3.73 and 4.78 optional for WC and WD-15(3/4T)

You're not that late to the party my truck still doesn't have functional wipers I did order a 6v electric but it won't be here until Thursday

Got you beat this year. Anniversary is today so we are back to back!

I'm planning to grab one of these for my next wiring project. Cheaper on rock auto fyi Dorman 94095 Uninsulated Connectors Builders Series Assortment https://a.co/d/e6sbfUJ

Dad told me he had his 51 wired that way for a while. During resto he put it back though

Didn't your original one have a turn indicator?

If you're lucky enough and it's just the bushings the jeep ones work and are way cheaper. I'm running jeep shackles in the front of mine but they are slightly shorter.