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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. You had some that good?? I think out of all the trucks we have you could maybe patch together one strip
  2. And 99.9% of people won't know the difference. Like I said just do the math to make sure the width comes out right and you'll be golden
  3. If you're going to wire the car I recommend pulling the dash and doing all the wiring on the bench.
  4. It's pretty easy to drill a round hole and file it square. I did many of them on my 47.
  5. I'll channel my inner GGDad here and tell you the only matching original ones come from Midwest military. However I'm running strips from Mar-k and I believe Roberts in my trucks. Just watch the width and make sure the bed still comes out to the proper width. My turkey truck thread should have some posts from building mine. I originally came out an inch or so wide because of the strips and had to widen the groves for them.
  6. The original wire had black markings on it to dictate gauge. You might be able to read them under the wrap. Beyond that for my 48 I used the 46-48 diagram for connections and the 49 diagram for wire size. In my 46-54 shop manual only the 49-54 diagrams list gauge. I also upgraded all the 16 in the car to 14
  7. I also thought about a second one and did the same thing with the shipping
  8. Anyone know if there is a 6v bulb?
  9. Hard to tell from that pic but they might be the 39-47 brackets
  10. Those minivans really did save the company. People love to hate them but we have 2( not Mopar though) and they are very useful. Other than the station wagons that preceded them there aren't many vehicles that can put a 4x8 sheet good in the back and close the door
  11. I've heard rumors that any of the brands that doesn't perform is on the line
  12. The tricky part is that fuse only protected the lighting circuit. My car also has an inline fuse for the radio and another for the clock. Beyond that the rest is fuseless
  13. How do you think I knew to warn you??? Its a fairly common thing
  14. Yes it should as long as you don't forget to release it before driving. That's what kills these
  15. Both. There are shops that will do it or you can buy the supplies. The lining is riveted on and it pretty straight forward to do. You will need to countersink the rivet holes a little. I get my supplies from brake and equipment warehouse here in Minneapolis. They will also do mail-order for either supplies or reline yours if you can't find something local.
  16. What Rich mentioned is certainly possible but I would think highly unlikely that the engine hasn't had detergent oil in it if it's had even infrequent use in the last few decades. That being said I'd still be adding an oil filter if it was mine.
  17. I've had my cowl lights as the signals for probably 10 years or more. I haven't noticed any issues of anyone not seeing them like I did before when I was using hand signals.
  18. Now I'm down to decision time. I spent a bunch of time online searching and not finding a decent way to convert the cowl lights to dual filament. So either $60 for the conversion kit or I just leave them singles.
  19. I get it for longer periods of non use but that seems like a lot of work for just a winter rest. I started my 48 this past weekend along with 5 other vehicles that hadn't been moved or started since last year. The only one that didn't start as if I had driven it the day before was the 69 sport fury. I had to tap the carb a few times to free up the needle valve
  20. Anyone have a recommendation for applying wax a little faster than by hand? I've got 64 and 66 Plymouth station wagons both in need of a good shining up before the Plymouth national meet
  21. Awesome job on the resto. Amazing the lense cleaned up like that. I didn't even try to clean mine and it actually cracked apart just using it to trace the new ones I cut.
  22. I'll have to look closer for a number. I didn't notice one but I also wasn't looking. The trailer has had wheels/ tires with hubcaps so the bearings seem ok. I'm just tired of grease everywhere and the possibility of ruining a bearing
  23. Anyone familiar with how these are measured? I've got a somewhat homemade trailer that I was given probably 20y ago and it's never had grease caps. Tired of the inside of the hubcaps being covered in grease along with it seeping out. I measured the ID of the hub at 2.25. How much of a friction fit am I looking for? I've seen 2.33 and 2.4 caps listed.
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