Young Ed

I got out my 2 parts books and they both just call it a 4spd. I didn't find any mention of who made it. They may not have wanted to call out that it was from an outside vendor

Looks like a 4 spd which was an available option. Dad's 40 Plymouth also had a 4spd but when we rebuilt it we swapped it to a 3spd and put the 4spd into the 46 dodge yard truck.

Installed. When the two bolts were tightened the back edge where the mount is came down a little. Hopefully a little pry bar action will get that back up where I want it

I've had these front signal lights for probably 10+ years but when I first got them I couldn't find a decent way to replace the lenses. A few weeks ago I came across them in the shop and gave it a second look. Found some gels on Amazon that seemed like they would work and gave it a shot. They were thin so I ended up with 4 layers but they seem to do the job. Next I didn't want to drill holes in the frame to mount them. So I went digging in the scrap pile and found a piece of a Weber gas grill that looked like it would work. Made 2 pieces that will attach under the front bumper bolts and put the lights back far enough to not be the first point of contact. Last night I touched up the paint and they are ready to install. All that's left is to make a spacer as the light hits the frame slightly and then wiring.

I would think you're close enough there. When my truck's pump died I got about a tablespoon

My 46-54 Plymouth manual says to disconnect at the carb and connect a short piece of hose to the line and place it into a container. Crank engine for 2 revolutions to prime pump and fill lines. Dump out the container and then crank engine for 15 pump strokes. You should get 5-6 ounces.

Idk it's weird for sure and it's only a car. My trucks still have bolts. If I had this problem I'd weld nuts on after the puller is on and get the drum off. Then you could install new studs.

But it is because it was better or cheaper to eliminate it

Little progress today. Finally got all the new brakes installed on the rear axle. This is a 94 Cherokee diff with the liberty conversion. I need to install lines to the center and then up to the MC but its nice to see it back on 4 wheels. Also needed to be able to move it to safety for some pending tree work

Have you tried fitting the original hubcaps? I'm curious if the OEM clips could be transferred over to use the hubcaps.

Make sure you have your strips first before you start cutting. They aren't all created equal and my last bed came out about an inch too wide because of the strips. The 39-47s have 6 equal width boards. My turkey truck thread should have some pics of my 47 bed build. Sorry not sure if they were originally flat or glossy.

Ooh I just got one of those! I'll try to look this up later. But I believe they all work even with the different arm styles

"truck" aka this frame has been moved onto a new owner. I took off a bunch of pieces I wanted and gave the rest away. Probably should have kept the manifolds off the engine but I ran out of time to pull them.

Congrats. I've got all the pieces for OEM signals except that indicator! Someday I'll find one

What year of truck are you working on?

And the SAE is slightly more $ yet! I didn't shop around though so there might be cheaper options

GEARWRENCH 5 Pc. 12 Pt. Reversible Half Moon Double Box Ratcheting Wrench Set, Metric - 9850 https://a.co/d/cybVRbM

I'm in MN so that rust thing is a problem here too but my donor parts seem solid enough although not rust free. The original buckets were out of a Chrysler Sebring. Grabbed them because of the integrated shoulder belts. Currently I have a 90s Dakota bench seat sitting in the truck. It seems to fit very well and I'm leaning towards using it and just figuring out my own shoulder belts. The bench seat also fits the look of the truck better to me. I'm trying to go for something that looks old to the point I'm considering a 12v generator over the alternator

I'm using a jeep liberty setup. The axle I swapped into this truck was pretty stripped. Like nothing there but the backing plates. So since I had to buy everything either way I went and got the liberty setup and bought new disk pieces.

Ordered 2 of each so hopefully one will be good and I'll get this back on 4 wheels

Yesterday I started on the rear disk brake conversion. Ran into a small roadblock of needing rear wheel seals. Does anyone know for a 94 Mopar 8.25 if they updated the seals? The ones I pulled clearly have a lip/flange on the outside but the new ones don't unless I look them up for a dana 35. The local parts store has them and they were too small even though they matched the appearance

I have about $500 into all 3 of the ones I bought. Gotta be vigilant and watch. 2 came out of salvage yards and one came from a guy who engine swapped a 52 and just wanted the old drivetrain out of his way. Did have to take the flathead with that one though.... I don't think anyone confirmed your bolt in comment but it is a complete bolt in as long as you don't have one of the short WB models. If you do you'll need a shorter driveshaft. I'd expect a George refurbished unit to be 1k-1.5k

Is it toonie or twonie?

Can we knock off the childish behavior? No one benefits from it