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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. Not the prettiest harness but it doesn't look corroded or damaged. Any idea when it was redone as that's certainly not OEM
  2. Agree if the 6v harness is in good condition will handle 12v fine. If it's not you can get a generic wiring harness off eBay for about $40. If you already have the alternator I think the rest would just be bulbs. Maybe a step down for any accessories
  3. A stock W series would have 4 wood cross members with either 6 or 8 large bolts through the bed floor crossmember and the frame. I've never seen a solid reason for why some have 2 more. My trucks I used 8 in both although I know the 47 only had 6 originally. The rubber pieces were clipped to the frame to hold in place.
  4. Only way I would picture that being factory is if your truck was originally a cab and chassis unit.
  5. Tricky it goes to the towboard to the eyelet of a cotter pin. The spring goes forward from there to the throttle linkage on the manifolds
  6. Yes W series at least for 1/2 tons all the cross members are wood. Actual 2x4s. For both by trucks I modified the rear one to make it once piece rather than a crossmember and separate filler under the tailgate. Edit- yes you need a pad too. The true test of height is of the grease fitting is centered in the filler panel above the running board. Mine are sidewalls of an old tire.
  7. Yes a bolt or screw. I think the few crusty ones were your basic round head screw. Personally I'd go for a countersunk screw to sit flush
  8. Hopefully this links you to my thread. If it goes to the end go back a couple pages.
  9. I just checked my W series shop manual and I don't see it there either. You might need the crash charts if anything has it. There is a chart floating around somewhere. It's also pretty easy to back into with the finished length and width of the box. If you are cutting yourself make sure you have your strips on hand. I had to cut all mine twice because my strips didn't match the chart cuts. My turkey truck build thread has some pics of my bed construction
  10. I've read somewhere the fuel pump can make a noise like this
  11. It's a great backer for welding sheet metal when you might burn through
  12. If you've got a pretty clogged up one you'll be amazed how much lighter it is when you get it back from being cleaned out.
  13. Don't you typically only ream the bushings not the upright?
  14. From what I remember top is just 4 bolts bumper to frame. Then the spacer piece bolts to the bottom of the frame and bottom bumper.
  15. I have them on 3 of my classics here in MN. My latest trucks I titled together and they have sequential collector plate #s which I might keep.
  16. You and the guys at International harvester. My Dad's 75 scout II is wired in baby blue wire everywhere
  17. Yes it presses into the channel on the frame and the slightly curved edge against the cab
  18. There isn't much too it. 2 hinges at the top of the back and then to pins at the bottom front corners. The two pieces interlock at the back/bottom but aren't connected beyond that.
  19. At least for Mopar they used many colors and the wires had tracers on them that indicated the gauge. Of course when you go to rewire after 70ish years it's hard to see some of that stuff
  20. Yup when I rewired mine I pulled the whole dash! It needed painting anyways but it was certainly easier to make all those connections on the bench
  21. No gasket I've ever seen. The cluster itself does have gaskets inside it.
  22. Not sure who you've been talking to but the orange thing is just friendly rivalry between Mark and I.
  23. That's exactly what's going on. When it needs a good wash and wax it gets more orangy. That red paint is very very old. From what I can tell it's only the second paint job since 46 and it's not even a very good job. They didn't do between cab and bed or inside the bed either.
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