Tom Skinner

Looks like a M5 Fluid Drive Transmission Typical of the 1946 - 1948 Chrysler and DeSoto Automobiles. Is there one or two wires going to the Kickdown Switch (At the Top of The Tranny in the first Picture) Typically One Wire to the Kickdown was a M5. Two wires to the kickdown was a M6, Typically the M6 came Later in 1948 - 1953. I am not totally sure but I believe they would function alike. The second wire in the later M6 was just grounded to the Governor. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in here.

I run a Big Fan with the hood up for an hour after a ride takes away the stink.

You may need a longer Pipe LOL!

Tom, I made my Gauge with a 3/4" 16 Nut 3/8" Threaded Rod and Scrap Strapping. I used JB Weld to Fasten the Rod to the Nut (Welding is probably better but JB Weld Works too) Tom

My Gauge

Tom, When done - Bleed and Adjust. Re-Bleed and Adjust. You will have got it by thorough process of elimination. I used to just eyeball shoes on now I use my home made gage on my Spindals where the Castle nut screws on. My Gauge is similar to the one shown (Shown is Don's but is a good example) Tom

Tom S. One more idea Tom, The Cams can be released to narrow the shoes (In order to facilitate spring removal and installation). Also the Anchors may be turned to facilitate the drum fitting. I personally just used a wood rule (Grandpa's and his wrenches) to size it up before attempting to slide the Drum back over new shoes. If you have 11" Brakes a quick wood rule diagonal measurement check is all you need to get the drum on. I also just cleaned up my old Wheel Cylinder Pins and used them. Answering your question: Yes the Spring Loaded Cam Adjustments are the ones to use to increase clearance of the shoe to the drum. All other adjustments should adhere to your Service Manual Instructions. Especially Torque of all pertinent Bolts. Anchors 50 - 70 FT. LBS Etc., (Anchors) Arrows Pointing toward each other on Rear Brakes ETC. The Fronts the Arrows Point toward the adjacent Wheel Cylinders) With New Shoes you should refer to the Major Brake Adjustment Section and be certain to follow the instruction - as yours, and others, Lives depend upon it. Good Luck let us know how you did! Tom S. Huntersville, NC

Stop beating it with Hammers! I use a 1-1/4" Socket and a Long 1/2" Coaxing Bar (2-1/2 Feet Long). Right where the DOG Bone Fits on. Keep Stepping on it until it POPS. (Do Leave the Castle Nut on Loose)So the damn thing doesn't de-nut you or fly into the wall across the Garage Turn it little by little with your foot until BANG it gives way. Tom PS. In this way maybe you don't Monk up the Axle Ends, beating on it (The Dog Bone)with a Hammer. It is more reliable as to when it will POP my way

Joe, I wish we all could agree, but it is your call, your car, change the oil when you see fit. I have owned 1948 Chryslers for over 50 years, they like their oil changed every 1,000 - 2,000 miles. Why I don't know, they just turn it black and useless every 1 -2 K Miles. Maybe its because the Engine Block is Cast Iron or Whatever. I'm sure the environmental wonders will disagree, But with 50 Years experience I don't care what anyone has to say about it. Choose your system. Tom

GTFastbacker, I agree with Los Control above, the habit of doing spring/Winter settings at the carb and choke coincide with my oil changes etc., etc., Tom

Sam, Thank You! Andy wasn't there when I called, he would have told me that. I will call them tomorrow and tell his helper, also I will order new Wheel Cylinders for the front Brakes. Thanks again! Tom

Gents, As per usual Andy Bernbaum stuff is Great. Question below my Inner Axle Seal (New) Which way does it Face (Out - In) Sorry to start a new thread I didn't want my old one ignored. Tom

Kilgore, I wouldn't leave out that inner seal, It will most assuredly (Pumpkin Grease) leak into and soil your Brake Shoes. Just a smear of Grease in the Bearing area will hold it until you inspect it again over a 2 -3 year period. (usually when re-bleeding Brakes and adjusting them) Lets face it - Service is mandatory on these old Buses to keep them running in top condition. Just as the Ignition System and Fuel System require that as well. Tom

Thank you to all! I need more feedback as I get older and forget stuff! LOL Tom

Loren, I tapped them out. Thank you! Been fixing these babies for over 50 years now. They are a pleasure to service when done patiently and with care. They will literally last forever if serviced regularly. Tom

Veemoney, Yes I have confirmed the Diameters and Potential Pitting situation. Also Thanks to you and Plymouthy Adams for confirming Position of Seals. Tom

Loren, It is dry only because I wiped it out. Rich is correct only a smear of grease on the rear Bearing is needed. In addition as he pointed out earlier to fill the pumpkin a half inch lower than the fill plug. I cleaned my breather cap overfill on the axle constantly - what happens in intense Southern Heat - the Axle Grease Expands. Thus the forced leakage. I am also going to smear some Indian Head Shellac Sealer on my spacer plates to insure no more leakage. This changing out Seals and Shoes is getting old and expensive. I am shocked at how well the car stopped and braked with soiled Shoes. They are going to be brand spanking new when I am done! Clean as a Babies Bottom with a fresh Diaper LOL! Tom

Gents, I have had my Left Rear Inner and Outer Seals Fail and Soil my Brake Shoes several times in the last 18 Years. I will use Rich's Advice to keep my Pumpkin 1/2" Low on Grease. But also does it look like I have installed these Seals correctly over the years? See Attached

It is the Interrupter Switch. The M5 had one wire (1946-1948) The M6 had two wires (1948-1953). The One Wire M5 ran a wire to the Transmission Solenoid. The two wire set up just ran a ground wire as well as one to the Transmission Solenoid. I cannot truly say why they changed it RoccoB but yours is the M5 (Pictured above). See your Service Manual as to the Terminal on the Transmission Solenoid that it connects to.

I would think with that set up, adjusting Valves in the car would go from not a good day - to - a Bad Day LOL.

Like Rich said (DeSoto1939), Rebuild your brakes re-bleed them. Put in DOT 3 or whatever you desire. Then and only then will you know what you have and then and only then will they work properly. Or just whip out your check book and let some one else do it for you - if they even know what they are doing. Good Luck Tom PS maybe if you took your drum off and looked inside for yourself you could see why your brake pulls to one side. I bleed my brakes every other year to keep them working well, and inspect the wheel cylinders for leaks. Yes at 67 it's not as fun as it used to be but you know what your driving - or not driving is safe.

Unless it was dirt cheap or free

Are you two smoking much Crack? Not a Good Buy or find!

Plymouthy Adams, I would use brighter Brake Light Bulbs or Directional Bulbs for safety purposes Tom

Gents, Question: 1. Are you installing these in 12 Volt Systems or 6 Volt Systems? 2. Is there really LED and Halogen Bulbs for 6 Volt Systems? My experience in searching the Internet has been these are for 9 -12 Volt Systems only, in almost all cases it is stated they are for 12 Volt Systems. Thank you for any replies, because if they actually make them for 6 Volt Systems I would consider buying some. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC And No I am not going to 12 Volt, or an Alternator, or Pertronix, or HIE, or an electric Fuel Pump, or Disc Brakes, my car is original and going to stay that way until I reach Kingdom Come. LOL. I service my Chrysler the old fashioned way - Continuously, and that's why everything on it works just fine.