Tom Skinner

Dear BloodyKnuckles, When you find the 588 at NAPA buy 2. I know thats about $130 instead of $65 but then you have an extra and can sleep well at night. Besides that never throw your old parts out clean em up and label them and save them. Future generations will sing our praises! I think they will? Will they? Well - at least I'm trying to be inspirational. Good Luck! Tom

Dear Dodge, The Imperial Web Site, or WPC Club Website might be able to direct you to an ad for one. E-Bay is an excellent source. Try John Gregory (440) 234-7989 OH. He advertises Carburetors in the WPC (Walter Percy Chrysler) Club magazine. I took this information off of Page 19 in the February 2010 Issue. Good Luck! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Bill, Can you take a picture of them and email them to Gary Jr.? That would be your best bet. I have 10" Trico's on my 1948 Chrysler, however, I have found there is alot of variance in the Lengths, (10" or 11") Arm Connections etc. If you can't do that when you go to a car show bring yours and try to match them that way? Good Luck. Ebay has alot of them from time to time, I scooped up my blades for $19.99 that way. I believe there is a left and right side Arm. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Off the subject just a tad........... How about that old sturdy Slant Six being bought back. A new owner could do all the maintenance and save tons. Oh well we were just dreaming.

Dear Claybill, You have gotton really good advice already and I agree with it all. Its either the master Cylinder or the Power Booster. Please don't take this wrong: but I am glad you are at the end of your $$ and you are finally taking the bull by the horns and going to fix it yourself. Unless you are "very well to do" you'll get hosed by well intentioned mechanics everytime. Its not their car so - its your problem - every penny of it. Its kind of like "owning it" when you take ownership of it - you fix it. The pride you feel from this, my friend, is the real deal. Good Luck! and may the Chrysler Gods Shine upon you and give you peace. You can do this! Get your Service Manual out and put on your Thinking Cap! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC.

Dear aero3113, I am truly sorry for the storm damage. This car in the picture in particular. This does remind me of something. Something I was told back in 1974 when I bought my first 1948 Chrysler Royal. A fellow by the name of Jim Petrellas in Bloomfield, NJ (whom is probably gone by now) owned a 1956 Crown Imperial Limosine - which very few where made. He told me and my buddy (John whom owned a 1947 Chrysler Windsor at the time) - "never park your old car under a tree or even close to one" "they are the bane of antique car collectors". I have followed his advise for 36 years. I only share this to prevent future catastrophies in our hobby not to hurt anyone's feelings. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Joe, The Castings may be warped/bent from over tightening etc. Take it all apart and lay them on a flat surface, use a light from behind and observe the bend or warp. Often times a simple piece of 100 grit sandpaper on a flat surface face up. Take the offending casting and rub it across the sandpaper until flat. Do not sand excessive amounts off - just correct the surfaces. Re - gasket that baby assemble with new lock washers and enjoy a leak free Carburator. Other ways involve a block of wood and beating everything back flat (not my favorite way unless I'm forced to use this method). Take your time and observe whats making it leak. Sometimes its at the throttle shaft (worn out) re-bushing it (drill it out and install a bushing) Good Luck! Tom

Don, Congradulations! You are a big help to all of us on this Forum. Thank You for all your hard work/fun for all these years! Tom

Rich, Im sorry to hear your news. Here is wishing you Good Luck in a job hunt. Remember now you can do whatever it is you always desired to. Stay positive and do what makes you happy - the money will follow. I always wanted to open a body shop since HS, I am 53 if I get laid off I might try my hand at it. Hell anything is possible. Colonel Sanford started Kentucky Fried Chicken at the age of 65 because he didn't feel like sitting around retired taking SS Checks. GO FOR IT! whatever you want. Turn Lemons into Lemonade! Its their loss they lost a good guy, now you can capitalize on that. Tom

Dear J. Are the Pigtail wires inside the Distributor Insulated? If one is Bare it causes problems similar to your description. Tom

Mopar Enthusiasts, Alan 32433 is correct. Those Colored Schematics are backwards. I uncovered an error while re-wiring my Transmission Harness using a RIWire Diagraham and my Service Manual. They had the + and - backward on the Coil from the Transmission Relay Switch. Thats a quick way to eat a $49 Ignition Coil, not to mention other "snafoos" I found. That Ebay Chart is only good for a Beer Coaster/Place Mat for a Sandwich. By the way a special Thanks goes out to Alan and Frank M. for helping me run down my Electrical problem 2 weeks ago. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Rollie is right those A/B positions are flawed. Just adjust them as they come up. Here's another nice little secret just keep the engine warm by running it when needed back up to full temp. Then turn it off and adjust Hot again. Running it with the Valve covers off will not throw oil everywhere at short intervals and you don't have to be an acrobat trying to adjust them while the engine is running. Do wear leather gloves with long wrists and cut the fingers out to manipulate the feelers and wrenches. You won't burn yourself and be happy you sacraficed a pair of gloves for the job - besides save the gloves for next time. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Frank and Alan, Thank you for all your help! I just installed a new Voltage Regulator and the Vibration moved from 14-20mph to 23-26 mph half as loud half as long - wierd. I'm sure the Kick Down HRM4101 is the wrong one now. Frank Thank You for offering me anothr HRM4102 you are a great help. I couldn't have done this repair without your help. Thanks Again! This Forum has been the best thing to happen to me in a long time. Tom

Dear Alan, My battery is a 6 Volt so as you say the Voltage regulator is probably over-charging as I know my VoltMeter is accurate its an old needle type. Set at DC and 10 Volt settings all my readings have been at 8 Volts when running and just over 6 Volts with the Engine turned off. You my friend are a genius. Voltage Regulator here I come! I'm still going to try to get a HRM4102 Kickdown though Tom

Frank, I sent an email to you about the HRM 4102 Switch, I just don't understand how after tripple checking everything why it would start making a noise after I changed out the Transmission Harness???? I got the harness from RIWire and everything wired up right to the directions first time right. I ran tests all along and can only figure its a wrong Kickdown Switch bad Voltage Regulator or Dirty Points at the Governor. I'll change out the Voltage Regulator and get back on later. Tom

Dear Frank and Alan, The plot Thickens. I had lunch then............... I tested the Kickdown at the BAT Terminal and it showed a steady 8 Volts. I Ran all Tests at the Relay and it passed all the tests. The Engine even stalled when a test light was hooked between the SOL and Ground and I Grounded the INT terminal. It now is either the Voltage Regulator or the Governor Points are dirty. I have an extra Voltage regulator shall I put it on first and see what happens? Tom

Dear Alan and Frank, Thanks I will have lunch and check for the six volts at the kickdown first. I'll get back on in a little while. Frank Thank You for your generous offer. I will get back with you on it a little later with more information. Thanks again!!!!!! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Dear Alan, when you say undera load do you mean reveing the motor or driving it with a voltmeter and long leads on it taking the reading?

Frank, Yes it was on my car when I got it in 2007 the car had 52,245 original miles on it.

I guess my last stupid question would be where in the world would I find a Auto Lite HRM 4101 Kick Down Switch? At a Salvage yard? Tom

Dear Alan32433, and Frank M, Thank You very much for the information. I was ignorant as to what it was now I know its a kickdown switch. Frank Thank You for looking the part number up for me. Alan, it might be the Governor Points I'll go there next. and use a soft silver cleaner on a cloth to clean them. I have another Voltage regulator but after thumping around with my fingers I'm sure that noise is coming out of that switch. On another thought wouldn't the Ammeter show problems if it was the Voltage Regulator? It shows a steady slight charging as it should with no jumping needle in shifting patterns. On my last test drive I noticed downshifting was delayed - not consistent. Tom

Fellows, I forgot the preffix on that AutoLite Box it is HRM 4101 I believe it is a circuit breaker. If that is true some kind of electrical vibration is causing those points to dance loudly for a short period upon the upshift.

Dear Forum, A plea for electrical help - please - anyone - after 20 hours of playing with this. Its getting to be to much fun. I ran into a vibrating problem after I replaced my Transmission Harness. I'm working on a 1948 Chrysler Royal with Fluid Drive. First I thought I had put the Throttle Spring on wrong hence a Springy vibrating noise upon excelleration between 14-20 mph. I then replaced the Transmission Relay Switch even though it passed all electrical tests in the Service Manual. Same noise. I started to bump/thump around with my finger under the Transmission Relay Selenoid is another box this box is labeled Auto Lite 4101 It has a wire going to the ground on the Transmission Relay Seleniod Box. I assume its the circuit breaker there is where the vibrating points noise came from. I cleaned the points and re-installed - same vibrating points inside between 14-20mph. Does anyone know if this is related to the Governor Points not opening soon enough at the Transmission? The Governor passed electrical tests for upshift however I have not opened it to look inside. I am stumped. Has anyone had a problem like this before? If so please let me know how to fix it. The vibrating Points in that box only last for 5 mph mostly while its under a load not coasting down hill or level pulling. I am electrically challenged to that I admit.This is my second 1948 Chrysler and I have never had this problem before. Ammeter shows steady charging and car runs great otherwise. Shifting is smooth everything otherwise is normal. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

47Heaven, My bad, I thought maybe it was a spring vibration noise, not vibration throughout the whole car. Tom

Dear 47Heaven, Your problem is solved. Its your Throttle Spring vibrating on the Metal Spark Plug Tubes. Take your Spring Off and re-install Presto no more noise. I just did the same thing when I removed my wires and Painted everything up and re-installed my Sring backwards it made the same noise. Check that and lets hope thats all it is. Tom