Tom Skinner

Jim, Thanks for posting this Thread. I remember attempting to put a Baldwin "Tear Drop" Tongue and Groove Lock onto a $500 Door Leaf once using the Template to locate the Holes to be bored. You guesed it - wrong Template for that Lock in the $150 Lock Box. I ate that Door because the Lock didn't fit, the owner saw it correctly as my mistake. One expensive lesson learned was always check all dimensions using a ruler, calipers micrometers etc. against all other things considered. You have shown the rest of us the importance of this expensive lesson. Thanks again for posting and may your repair now proceed with ease and success. Tom

JD52, This may sound ignorant but would a Champion Plug suit your engine better? Autolites tend to be a cooler burning plug. Champions hotter burning. I have no Idea about the dual Carburetor set up so I may just be grasping at straws here. Tom

Dear 58Regent, A noisy valve is a happy valve. A Sowing Machine Click when the Engine is cold is fine. When warmed up though it should quiet down some. If not maybe a little Valve Adjustment is in order. .08 for Intakes, .010 for Exhausts - Hot. I keep my Exhaust Valves set at .012 because I like riding at highway speeds for extended periods of time plus I live in NC where it stays HOT in the Summer. Your probably fine, when a 251 sounds like a sewing machine you are right where you need to be. I have had 2 1948 Royals for many years, your good to go. Tom

W.F. Welcome to the Forum! Nice Car! Lots of knowledge and experience with this Forum. Good Luck with your new Car. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Patrick, I rented one from Auto Zone that looked like that Northern Tool one and it does not work on our 46-48 Chrysler Drums. It doesn't fit our hub bolt spread or pull "strong enough" it was bought straight back and I bought the Taiwaneese one on line and it works fine. Tom

Patrick, I bought one of these 3 years ago and it works just fine. My car only has 56,000 original miles on it though. If you have a tough drum (rusty stuck) any puller will be put to the test. Its a safe bet for that price although I like to buy American Tools most of the time I have some foriegn made as well. The case it comes in stores well in a cabinet and everything is clean and ready when you need it again. I wouldn't pay twice that for the same thing because your only going to use it a few times anyhow. Example Brake Job, Rear Wheel Seals/Axle Seals and when will you use it again 5-10 years down the road? Tom

Michael, I know its seems like everyone is picking on you at times, but please try to understand we are just a bunch of "Tough Love" guys. Let me explain. Most of us on this Forum have restored many cars - mostly Mopars with our own two hands. As a matter of fact for years at car shows I wouldn't even stop to talk to the guys that "just grabbed their wallets" instead of a wrench to fix their cars. I am a little older now and show everyone respect much better. So when you send out (looks like your close to 1000) posts asking questions without a book/service manual/parts manual you get alot of flack. We respect the guys that have "grease under their fingernails". So just a word of advice - even though you didn't ask for it - please buy the book it will help you with your "Labor of Love". We want to help you too, but Tough Love shows others how to do things for themselves. I know I probably speak for many guys on this Forum, but if I don't and I have offended you, then my apology is in order. Sometimes it seems to me your just trying to outbest everyone here with the most posts. Content matters. I for one am pretty quiet on this Forum. When I do post I try to help someone with a repair or problem. We tend to be givers here not takers. Good Luck on your project, I do wish you the best of luck and I'm sure I speak for everyone when I write we really hope you finish your car in a splendid fashion. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Yes-but not a sharp point

Joe, If your Idle Mixture Screw is not conicle at the tip-that is to say maybe it has been screwed in to far and damaged, then you will never achieve a smooth/slow idle. if it is damaged repair or replace it. It could be something as simple as that without using propane etc. I have found that looking for the simplest solutions first save time and money. If I knew how to attach pictures here I would attach a picture of a normal Idle Screw but I never can figure out how. I got lucky once and attached a picture of my car and me to my name in the directory. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

unfair to Local 12th

Kevin, Push back the escuteon plate (round ornamental rosett) at the handle with a screwdriver or flat metal and it will reveal a handle shaft with a small tapered pin in it. Knock the pin out with a punch or nail and slide the handle off the shaft. They make a tool for just this application but it always sells on ebay for too much $30-$50. I always do it like I just explained it to you here for free. Tom

Don, Taking Care of Business Taking Care of Business Taking Care of Business and working overtime - alright! Tom

Rodney, Vacuum the Headliner first with a gentle brush. Then shampoo with whatever. When Dry Vacuum again. Repeat. It cannot be done in one rough scrub, and may be damaged that way. Really good results will be achieved in a patient fashion. Tom

Dear BloodyKnuckles, When you find the 588 at NAPA buy 2. I know thats about $130 instead of $65 but then you have an extra and can sleep well at night. Besides that never throw your old parts out clean em up and label them and save them. Future generations will sing our praises! I think they will? Will they? Well - at least I'm trying to be inspirational. Good Luck! Tom

Dear Dodge, The Imperial Web Site, or WPC Club Website might be able to direct you to an ad for one. E-Bay is an excellent source. Try John Gregory (440) 234-7989 OH. He advertises Carburetors in the WPC (Walter Percy Chrysler) Club magazine. I took this information off of Page 19 in the February 2010 Issue. Good Luck! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Bill, Can you take a picture of them and email them to Gary Jr.? That would be your best bet. I have 10" Trico's on my 1948 Chrysler, however, I have found there is alot of variance in the Lengths, (10" or 11") Arm Connections etc. If you can't do that when you go to a car show bring yours and try to match them that way? Good Luck. Ebay has alot of them from time to time, I scooped up my blades for $19.99 that way. I believe there is a left and right side Arm. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Off the subject just a tad........... How about that old sturdy Slant Six being bought back. A new owner could do all the maintenance and save tons. Oh well we were just dreaming.

Dear Claybill, You have gotton really good advice already and I agree with it all. Its either the master Cylinder or the Power Booster. Please don't take this wrong: but I am glad you are at the end of your $$ and you are finally taking the bull by the horns and going to fix it yourself. Unless you are "very well to do" you'll get hosed by well intentioned mechanics everytime. Its not their car so - its your problem - every penny of it. Its kind of like "owning it" when you take ownership of it - you fix it. The pride you feel from this, my friend, is the real deal. Good Luck! and may the Chrysler Gods Shine upon you and give you peace. You can do this! Get your Service Manual out and put on your Thinking Cap! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC.

Dear aero3113, I am truly sorry for the storm damage. This car in the picture in particular. This does remind me of something. Something I was told back in 1974 when I bought my first 1948 Chrysler Royal. A fellow by the name of Jim Petrellas in Bloomfield, NJ (whom is probably gone by now) owned a 1956 Crown Imperial Limosine - which very few where made. He told me and my buddy (John whom owned a 1947 Chrysler Windsor at the time) - "never park your old car under a tree or even close to one" "they are the bane of antique car collectors". I have followed his advise for 36 years. I only share this to prevent future catastrophies in our hobby not to hurt anyone's feelings. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Joe, The Castings may be warped/bent from over tightening etc. Take it all apart and lay them on a flat surface, use a light from behind and observe the bend or warp. Often times a simple piece of 100 grit sandpaper on a flat surface face up. Take the offending casting and rub it across the sandpaper until flat. Do not sand excessive amounts off - just correct the surfaces. Re - gasket that baby assemble with new lock washers and enjoy a leak free Carburator. Other ways involve a block of wood and beating everything back flat (not my favorite way unless I'm forced to use this method). Take your time and observe whats making it leak. Sometimes its at the throttle shaft (worn out) re-bushing it (drill it out and install a bushing) Good Luck! Tom

Don, Congradulations! You are a big help to all of us on this Forum. Thank You for all your hard work/fun for all these years! Tom

Rich, Im sorry to hear your news. Here is wishing you Good Luck in a job hunt. Remember now you can do whatever it is you always desired to. Stay positive and do what makes you happy - the money will follow. I always wanted to open a body shop since HS, I am 53 if I get laid off I might try my hand at it. Hell anything is possible. Colonel Sanford started Kentucky Fried Chicken at the age of 65 because he didn't feel like sitting around retired taking SS Checks. GO FOR IT! whatever you want. Turn Lemons into Lemonade! Its their loss they lost a good guy, now you can capitalize on that. Tom

Dear J. Are the Pigtail wires inside the Distributor Insulated? If one is Bare it causes problems similar to your description. Tom

Mopar Enthusiasts, Alan 32433 is correct. Those Colored Schematics are backwards. I uncovered an error while re-wiring my Transmission Harness using a RIWire Diagraham and my Service Manual. They had the + and - backward on the Coil from the Transmission Relay Switch. Thats a quick way to eat a $49 Ignition Coil, not to mention other "snafoos" I found. That Ebay Chart is only good for a Beer Coaster/Place Mat for a Sandwich. By the way a special Thanks goes out to Alan and Frank M. for helping me run down my Electrical problem 2 weeks ago. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Rollie is right those A/B positions are flawed. Just adjust them as they come up. Here's another nice little secret just keep the engine warm by running it when needed back up to full temp. Then turn it off and adjust Hot again. Running it with the Valve covers off will not throw oil everywhere at short intervals and you don't have to be an acrobat trying to adjust them while the engine is running. Do wear leather gloves with long wrists and cut the fingers out to manipulate the feelers and wrenches. You won't burn yourself and be happy you sacraficed a pair of gloves for the job - besides save the gloves for next time. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC