Tom Skinner

I nabbed these babies last week on ebay. A complete Fluid Drive Kit for 1942-1949 Chryslers. All Miller Tools. The Box they came in was Rusty so I'm getting it Sand Blasted to repaint and Felt the Drawer

That looks like the Hub Cap Remover that slid across the Tire Iron in Days gone by. I had one on my first 1948 Chrysler Royal from 1973-1984. The 1948 Chrysler Royal with a Tire Iron I have now - it is misssing. They could be as rare as Hen's Teeth by now. Tom Huntersville NC

I just prefer kerosene. for soaking stuff. By the way that breather will burn 10 minutes or more and be cherry hot when it finally goes out, so let it cool for 10 more minutes also. The oil globules and rust looks like coffee grinds when you beat them out of it afterwards. The results are remarkable almost unbelievable. Wire Wheel the top and sides and then paint semi-gloss black then decal. Tom

Soak it light it burn it. Let it burn all the way out. On Concrete in a well ventilated area - driveway. Let it cool all the way before touching. Its like new again.

Burns it back to bright clean metal. Service Manuals intructed Mechanics to do this back in the Day. That is not Steel Wool in there. It is Stainless Steel Mesh. I have been doing mine this way since the 70's and they are in great shape. Of course soaking it in Kerosene for a few Day might clean it up as well. When they look like you want to throw them out - don't - burn em out. It really works, these parts didn't just march on down from mamby pamby land like they do today. They were built to last.

OK Fellows here's how it was done! Pour some Kerosene into it - light it on fire and let it burn all the way out. Bang it against a Column or Slab somewhere and beat all the rust - crap as you said out of it. Soak it in oil. Let Drain for a day. Clean and Paint outside. Put on Decals Re-install. Everything is new again. Fire seems to do the trick. Tom

To each his own. I run 6 volt. That was original equipment. New Harnesses from Rhode Island wiring. To me its either restored to original or "changed out". Take your pick there is no right or wrong in this world but for the preferences YOU have. Good luck with your project. My original 6 volt system works fine for me. Always Starts like a Gun Shot. You are the Master of your Universe. That is the Beauty of this Hobby. Do what you think is right. Tom Huntersville, NC

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas!

Truth be told I have done Brake jobs on a couple of 1948 Chryslers several times over in the past 36 years and never used the tool and "eye balled it" every time and never had a bit of trouble. So the question begs - who the hell needs one of these tools??????? Tom Huntersville, NC

Way back in another time and place I knew a man named Jim Petrellas, he owned and drove a 1956 Crown Imperial 8 Passenger Sedan. He was in his 50's in the 1970's so he is probably gone now, however, I asked him one day what his gas mileage was. His answer? "My boy Gas is small potatoes" When you drive a large Chrysler Product my question is: Isn't Gas small potatoes? I drove a 1948 Chrysler Royal with the 250.6 cu. in. six in it then as I do now. I guess us older guys just don't get it? To me gas will always be small potatoes. Particles of unburned Particles? Who Cares? If removing this Thread is Politically Correct then so be it. You'all try to have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year here at the Forum. For the Sensitive Crowd - have a happy holiday and save gas while your'e at it every chance you get - so I can drive my Large Chryslers around and have more gas for me.

Well if that Ammco Company still exists out there it would behoove them to start making this tool again and selling it to us at a decent price. Or as Hank just said, if, thats a big if, someone on our forum could or would make a version of this tool for a fair price they would sell every one of them. Tom

Big John, Steele Rubber Products are the best and they are proud of their products rightfully so (pricewise). So here is the best - and when the best is around they call these guys - better. When better is around they call these guys - mo better. www.steelerubber.com 800 544-8665 Steele Rubber Products 6180 E. NC 150 Hwy Denver NC 28037

Have you got a manual? Somewhere in it should be an exploded view of your Carburetor showing all the parts. I think there are 2 places that it could have come from besides the accelerator pump/shaft. For instance at the Dash Pot area, under the Spring (If equiped with a Dash Pot) or in the Fuel Bowl Area near the bottom at the Pump Check Plug. It seems like a real pain but if you go on line looking for Carter Ball and Ball Carburetors there are some exploded views to look at as well. In addition to that a rebuild kit should contain the same "exploded view" picture. Good Luck and let us know what you found out. Tom Huntersville NC.

Note ho wthe Tail Pipe was being sprayed with 90 wt for a short time until I made this repair. By the way I think the Yolk is 1-7/8" diameter. The Sleeve ends up being Slightly smaller and once the Yolk is Frozen it Bumps right on. It was fun. They are however a little bit proud of Speedy Sleeves $35-$40. Tom

Aftera Pinion Seal was installed it still leaked. I was able to sneak the Yolk off and Speedy Sleeve it withought messing with the Seal again. Tom

I put a Speedy Sleeve on my Pinion Yoke and it stopped Leaking. Neat little Trick. Just Freeze the Yolk then use a block of wood or the Sleeve tool to bump it on place with some sealer and Presto no more Pinion Seal Leak. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC I tried this thread as a test to attach apicture so if I messed up please allow me some grace. I might have a picture too large.

Congradulations! That was a lot of work! Tom

I'm with Don, that stuff is expensive and just hides what needs to be fixed properly. I would weld in new and paint it. There is a couple of old guys in Booton NJ, they are the Kanter Brothers, they have a saying it goes like this "Do it once and do it right". POR - to me - will just will hide stuff/rust. That causes more work later on down the road. Just MHO. Everyone has got one. This is not to offend people whom have used this product and like it. Even the Kanters sell POR. I just avoid it as a personal note. Tom Huntersville, NC

Hey You'all Them Thar Tires are good up to them make May Pop status. When you are runnin 4 May Pops, then is a good time to consider purchasin some new used tires. New Tires are for city folks. Tom Huntersville, NC

Todd, Tighten the Bolts to about 25 ft lbs for the Pump to Block (2) Bolts. Wipe all clean and observe after a ride. If the Pump Bolts don't have Lock Washers on them they work themselves loose after time. I tighten mine from time to time, or maybe the oils coming down off of the Valve Cover gaskets? Snug the wing nuts on them - but not too tight. Observe again after a test drive. Its probably just a little slow leak. Nothing to get excited about. You can make a Gasket for either very easily. Tom

Rodney, Those Breaker plates are on ebay regularly for about $30-$40 S&H included. I bought one and put it in my Distributor and everything runs Great now Tom

Group Hug?

I will indeed!

Richard. There is a Gasket between the backing Plate and Pump that needs gasket sealant also - do both sides - then bolt it to the pump. Then butter up the gasket between the Pump and Block and then bolt to the Block. That Backing Plate needs Gasket Sealer on the Gasket between it and the Pump. I first put a Water Pump on a Flat Head back in the mid 70's and didn't seal that "inbetween" Gasket and then learned it must be done also. Good Luck! You can make your own gaskets from a roll of Water Pump Gasket Material with Sicsors and a Hole Punch real easy. Tom