deathbound

If you changed the piston also, compare the length to your old one. I recall reading a thread/post that the piston lengths were different, causing problems. Just a thought.

Exactly what I saw in the parts. Is that an early VW tail light housing?

If he checks it in the morning, would it be 7AM?

Tim, what "other" head are you referring to, as far as having over heating issues?

Looks good, which kit did you use?

Pre-heat the part(s).

Is it me going crazy or did we lose some threads and posts? I don't see a few of each that were there last night.

Well said Bob. What excuses do adults have?

Beat me to it ledfoot. I'd even settle for 65MPG.

This is listed for '41-'48 Dodge/Plymouth...http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=226/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd226.htm

They're stepped bore wheel cylinders, don't know the physics behind it though. I had mine re-sleeved a couple years ago with stainless steel, stepped bore.

Your previous post fits this thread....earlier on page 3, there was a valve spring compressor used.

See Vince @CH Topping, I've dealt with him a few times....great shop.

These here....http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930s-1940s-1950s-NOS-MoPar-Plymouth-Chrysler-Dodge-DeSoto-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-NUTS-/400841510598?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d54040ec6&vxp=mtr ....at nearly $3.50/nut ($9.95 + $3.95 shipping for 4), that's a deal.....right?

You've been given a lot of good advice here, but may get more "truck specific" help if it was moved to the truck forum (moderator?). Some of them are scared to read/post on the car forum, but with the title of your thread, their ears will perk up. Good luck. BTW.....any updated pics?

Regarding the radio issue....did you verify the speaker(s) is/are in good working order? Maybe the connections are dirty/loose?

I've done everything you describe. Currently have Langdon's cast iron (Fenton style) headers, Sharp dual carb intake with the 2 barrel carbs Langdon sells (run great right out of the box) with the plate for pre-heat, his carb adapters & air cleaners. I plan to change back to dual stock carbs and have them rebuilt by George Asche, because I like the look of the original carbs. I'm also using the HEI Langdon's sells. If you decide to run a dual carb intake with the hot water pre-heat, make a gasket from gasket material/sealer for the plate. DO NOT use a stock gasket that is used where the stock intake/exhaust bolt together. It is a piece of aluminum (?) sandwiched between gasket material, which WILL leak coolant (did in my case TWICE til I figured it out). Good luck.

Check out the linked thread started by Cpt. Fred about 1-1/2 years ago. Even though it's mainly about lowering the rear, post #51 starts where he installed the Moog Aerostar springs. I'm sure he'll chime in with the model#/info. There are a few other threads that are entirely about the Aerostar springs. http://p15-d24.com/topic/33585-new-ways-to-lower-the-rear-end/page-3?hl=%20new%20%20ways%20%20lower%20%20the%20%20rear ***EDIT***BTW Fred, once you get the correct parts, I'm sure the work/look will be spot on.

Welcome to the forum......the search function is your best friend. Just make sure your in "the forums" from the drop down menu of the search function. Also, pics of your car are mandatory (unofficially).

Very cool video....thanks for posting.

My '38 Plymouth P6, 3 passenger coupe....

Nice score for $75. (might get a "you suck" if we were on the Garage Journal)

As a couple have mentioned, I would look into what caused the bendix to break.

That would be "Dodgeb4ya" in post #3 above........ EDIT***To the OP.....I've got a 1938 Plymouth P6 Deluxe Coupe......3 passenger

Piece by piece (not the Slayer song). Now I see why you're looking for "a" Bulls Eye headlight. Lookin good!