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deathbound

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Everything posted by deathbound

  1. I thought you were going to get them yesterday.....
  2. Sounds like this thread is getting off topic. Fargos-Go-Far mentioned 1920's-1980's (I would think 60's at the latest, but not my thread). Some of these posts should be in the "daily driver" threads.
  3. Definitely will be watching this one!
  4. "In my opinion", these cars look better when lowered.....you can't please everybody & don't even try. Make it the way YOU want it.
  5. Any pics of your car?
  6. So, if I found one of these.....took a weekend to rebuild it & wanted to install it in my '38 Plymouth Coupe, I guess there would be a little more than moving the radiator 2" forward, huh?
  7. Thanks for the pic, sure puts it into perspective.
  8. There's probably not much, if anything I can post here that someone on here hasn't seen already. New to me so here goes..... Thirty cylinders, five banks, five carburetors, five distributors, 1255 cubic inches. This is what happens when Detroit goes to war. Chrysler built the A57 as a way to satisfy a World War II tank-engine contract in a hurry, using as many off-the-shelf components as possible. It consisted of five 251-cube passenger-car inline-sixes arranged radially around a central output shaft. The resulting 425-hp pile of hairy freedom powered M3A4 Lee and M4A4 Sherman tanks.
  9. Looking at their website, looks like they mainly deal with Ford flatheads. As far as "man power problems", if you can fab a header for a Ford flathead, you can fab a header for a Plymouth/Dodge flathead. I'm sure they have jigs/patterns for the bends & the flanges...what, 3/8" plate, big deal. Shift production, build a few sets of Ply/Dodge headers.....keep the customer happy. It's not rocket science.
  10. Very very nice & welcome to the forum. I would get your money back, since the visors weren't included....but seriously, place a wanted ad in the classifieds section (brown header at the top of the page), before your post gets deleted.
  11. Here's a link on "how to use & interpret a vacuum gauge" I've posted before & you may have seen it, but others reading this may not have.....hope it helps: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
  12. Tim, I don't think there's a problem mentioning a supplier, as long as you're not affiliated with selling said product....otherwise, it would go in the Classified section. At least that's MY interpretation. Engine looks nice, BTW.
  13. You're not the first and definitely not the last to be 180* out. Good you got it running, on to the next thing.
  14. Running Langdon's cast headers (Fenton copy) also & would gladly buy another set if needed for another motor. They work well & look like they belong on these flatheads....the "tube" style headers (not knocking the quality) look like they belong on a SBC......IMHO.
  15. I hope you wouldn't whore his little ass out. As bad as it is, you really can't blame him.....chock it up as an expensive learning experience.
  16. That color looks GREAT! Any pics of the whole car....sideview or other maybe?
  17. George Asche splits the stock exhaust, I think a few on here have had him do it.
  18. Which leaf of the 2,015 on the grass is yours?
  19. I'm sure you know Langdon's sells the Fenton style cast iron headers. I have a set & happy with them.
  20. I used all-thread wheel studs that have a "stop" to bottom out on the drum, then use lug "nuts"......or in my case, chrome acorn style lug nuts. I suggest Loctite or similar for the part the goes into the drum. The outer end of the stud has a provision for an allen wrench to tighten the stud into the drum. I didn't have to worry about left hand threads as all my drums are right handed. Also, you don't have to worry about Indians attacking.
  21. Is this similar to what happened about a month or so ago? EDIT:answered my own question after reading the thread posted last month re:same situation.
  22. It is an alignment pin that doubles as a rivet. Cut it down to a similar profile as the rivets.....as long as those don't interfere with you new wheels, you should be good to go.
  23. I think that is the part# of the frame/rail. If the engine is original to your frame/car, it should be the same#, minus the model#....ie:P15, etc.
  24. Looks great Bill.....did you see this set-up at the GNRS last month? I didn't get a pic of the steering column/box.
  25. 3 on the tree wasn't available on my '38.....didn't come out til '39. The reason they put the shifter on the tree was for the old ladies who kept complaining they had to take their hand so far away from the wheel.
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