DJ194950

I do believe it was stated as Your car. Have you done this with your car Plymouthy? Further rules defined? DJ

Bet Paul would just clear coat over the moss to save the Patina if he owned that cab! DJ

Hey, Baja Mex. is not far over the border from the US. Bet a lot of Americans commute from the US to there to work. Maybe there is a Express tunnel under the border!! DJ

Smile when you say that! The wife knows! DJ

Which of those cars is yours? DJ

Reprint of Hollander interchange book 1946-56 shows that the 51 Plymouth business coupe and club coupe are Not the same glass. What is different? Does not give measurements-sorry. DJ

Better than china? Could not get much worse! Unless it does not work at all! Best of wishes for a very long life, the switch also! DJ

Sounds like the distributor may have a lot of looseness in the shaft bearings. Too late to check closely now but with the dist. cap off, try moving the whole shaft side to side and look for movement. The points gap can change with wear a little or a lot depending of the rpm changing dwell and timing, a lot due to the pressure the points put on the shaft as it rotates over the high/low parts of the cam. Pertronix and any other electronic types are less affected by this- as there is no pressure against the cam to move the shaft and not usually as affected by the gap change if any as they can tolerate the air gap change if not excessive. May be why it runs smoother plus the hotter spark.? I Do want to restart the spark- vs. points/electronic ign. controversies. DJ

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-260-7563-Tandem-Master-Cylinder-w-Remote-Reservoirs-1-Inch,9144.html After looking at what Scarebird offered I did a quick check on what Speedway Motors offers for a similar product and found this one, sure a web search would find many more. What I also noticed On the Scarebird site was the mount adapter that was included-a plus- but one could also build there own if needed. As for Don's problem with the outlets of the M.C. being on the wrong side- there are many avail. M.C. now with outlets on both sides that come with plugs for the side not used. $40-$60 on the speedway site. There are also adapter M.C. lids to adapt average dual M.C. to remote fill now days. Just a couple of thoughts as I have not used any companies disc brake adapters on my old Plymouths. I do appreciate what they can offer as to straight stopping power and No adjustments. I am lucky in that I was Given a Lockheed type brake shoe tool (with a promise not to sell when I told the giver what the sold for now!) for their adjustments-A Big help for sure with the old brakes. After they get set properly just the minor adjusters keep up with adjustments needed for normal wear-no fancy tool required. As said before -your choice! DJ

I believe the fluid drives also used a short trans tailshaft with the long input shaft to the trans and almost all early mopar cars (Plymouth at least had the same length driveshaft)due to these different length. of trans. etc.? I have wondered why did moper change tailshaft length instead of driveshaft length? Wouldn't it that be cheaper? Employ more engineering / casting etc. people after the war? Just some musing of mine, not from any in depth study for sure. DJ

Bonded linings new metal-no core charge. Most likely made in china-but getting much else New is getting harder by the day. New riveted lined shoes complete -is it even possible unless maybe our old N.Y.- past forum member -ebay seller- for $200 per shoe- I'd guess per his past prices for parts! I bought Andy B. bonded shoes for my 50 Ply. several years ago and have been fine, but never used hard regularly (only once did I lock up all 4 wheels). I made the mistake of dumping the old riveted shoes! Duh! DJ

What ya got against rainbows? DJ

Look at percentages between yourself and Don. Don-20,407 posts-2171 likes- a little over 10%- he likes to post! YukonJack- 312 posts-30 likes-just barely less then 10%,but close! plymouthcranbroo-355 posts-58 likes-Over 10%! Who really cares if you can answer someones question or you get some to your own-is not that the point of the forum? Well maybe a joke or two keeps it lightened up. DJ

What is the inside diameter of the master cylinder bore. Some have tried 1" and 1/16", 1 1/8" with disc brake and had what you are experiencing. Low brake pressure and excess pedal pressure required. You could try a smaller diameter bore size, something like a 7/8" or 15/16" bore. That would make more pedal travel but higher brake line pressures the smaller you go. Another approach ?? 50HR

And I thought I had very little room to work! Amazing what some of you guys can do within the available space! DJ

I'm going to go Out there on a long limb with group -I think-- An old mechanic told me what he did to exposed old bolts that did not want to come out with normal pressure- like the head bolts on flatties -he used to take a solid punch close to the head size of the bolt and give it good wack or two with a good sized hammer before trying to take them out again. I never needed to use this on the two Mopar flathead motors that i have worked on as they came out without excess force used. I have used this method though on other stuck bolts and it worked Most of the time cutting down the chance of broken bolts. DJ

My part interchange book shows 1940-1950 Plymouth (standard model) springs to be the same But does not show 1939. Are they different in some way? Some measurements as to unloaded spring height, coil wire diameter, outside diameter, maybe someone on the forum has one out of a 40-50 to compare? If the same then a new or used set of the Ford aerostar springs would be good to try out and cut as needed? This book usually shows all years that swap out regardless of year, even though the book is supposed to cover 1949-56 parts- all american brands that interchange. A long shot? DJ edit to add Plymouth as to this info.

so you did finally get Some response from them!! Facebook must be more important to them than your emails were! Good on Ya! DJ

The auto-reset breaker hooked into your wiring (see your wiring diagram) is over heated and opening the contacts. Opens the circuit and then rests to closed after it cools some. The breaker may be getting bad or maybe something is overloading it. What updates were done if any to the electrical system from stock? Even a bad ground(s) on some component can cause this problem. DJ

search on this forum for- water temperature gauge repair- There are some ways to do this show. Happy hunting. DJ

Hey, she is a smart girl. If things go really wrong, she is ready to bail out and leave it up to you to deal with whatever! LOL. DJ

I did not even look for replacement stock steer column to dash insulator, I just used some 1/6" or 1/8" thick bulk rubber fit stock (I forget which) I already had and cut to fit. I had much bigger things to deal with! DJ

Also be aware that there is a bushing at the top end of the steer tube to support the one piece steering shaft. These do not often have the wear you are describing, but could be worn. Pinpoint where the movement is. There is also a rubber insulator at the attachment point of the column at the dash mount point. The other forum posts can surely also have the effect of excess steer wheel movement. DJ

Boy yard work should be very little, no lawn,weeds. Food-jackrabbit, rattlesnake (just like chicken!). Scorpions-fun to touch on their backs with a stick and watch them poison themselves with their stinger! Cheap entertainment. Who needs water! I guess that must why people live there! DJ

You can look at what a company called Wilcap adaptors in a web search -to fit our Flathead motors to chevy trans. and also:http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=222. For mopar auto adaptors. Happy hunting, DJ