DJ194950

No. That one is made for the coil only. It will start off putting out almost full voltage and drop the voltage as it warms up. Full voltage for cold starts then lower to make the points last longer as it is not needed as car warms up. Do forum search on truck side And car forums for voltage drops for wipers. Keep on truckin' DJ

I just now did a Search of this (truck forum- start the search when on this forum) with just the title of "pertronix" and there is a whole page of posts with something to do with this topic. May some some info on other types of electronic ign. also,- I did Not take the time to really read them. That is up to you if you find some relevant info there. Also went to on the "car" forum and searched "electronic ignition" and another whole page of posts came up with some about other ways to get rid of points on the flat six. Also in the Resources in the main header line above click on that and go down to downloads you will see pertronix install and application per ignition distributor # as per your dist. tag on the dist body side tag. Happy hunting, DJ Edit to add some search info and to try to clarify searching on truck/car forum.

I like "chrome colors" also. DJ

Burgundy Red would look good with the silver. It's almost red, but different! As for the "trailer wheels", if he don't plan to do motocross, it'd say he is a least fine for the time being! DJ

(1) P-20's had the heater box under the hood with one fan mounted near the grille in front of the heater core box with a fiber tube to the firewall and some fancier models also had a second fan for good defrost function mounted under the dash. I like the idea however of replacing the under hood heater box with the heat/ac also mounted under the hood on the passenger side inner fender . How to hook up the heat/cool ducts to the interior would have to be figured out. Maybe Tim (PA) has done this?. Under dash area is extremely short-front to back- so a under hood solution is very appealing. Do a forum search on this forum to what several others have done to mount a compressor to the motor for the ac. That should give you some ideas of your own and the issues to be dealt with. I would certainly follow your journey with this as I also have a P-20 4 dr. I say go for it, but it's your time/money. Best of luck with this! DJ

If you want the truck to stand out at a show- -Red ! Edit- red you will probably fit in better? DJ

I thought I made a mistake once--I was wrong!..

Indian Shellac?? DJ

No wheels off the ground? Who needs one of those rotisseries? DJ

The choke should on close to 75-80% cold After the throttle opened slightly to let the choke and high idle linkage move in to the correct position if is adjusted properly. Has been posted here several times before how to adjust the choke. The electric choke will close it to 100% only when the starter is engaged and will drop back to the 75-80% closed after starter is released. Will slowly open to 100% open with manifold heat. DJ

The Cat ( the one that started the garage fire later ) was still smoldering after the torch work!

Sorry Don yours are "imperfects" so most likely only worth $500 each!! Sorry to be the one delivering the bad news, just don't kill the messenger! DJ

I did a quick ebay search in ebay motors/part for 1946-48 plymouth "oil pressure gauge and four showed up, used and NOS. 2nd search for -1946-48 plymouth oil pressure line- showed even more gauges and the rubber portion of the pressure line. Did not see the steel part that passes thru the firewall to the gauge with the Odd compression type fitting on the gauge end as mentioned in previous posts and where to find that. Perhaps posting a question to the used gauge ebay sellers to see if the also have available the line parts? Has worked for me a few times. Let your fingers do the walkin' and shopin'. DJ

Some NOS? or NORS day/night mirrors for our old Mopars show up on EBAY occasionally . My only real problem I have with them has been the price! Appear some would fit my 50 Ply. 4 dr.. Still happy with my fair condition stocker. $60+ ( + shipping) is not for me. I do not drive much after dark, but when I have, the eye surgery I have had gives me Some of that "starburst" effect when someones headlights get too close and those new "sunburn type of super lights make me turn my mirror some that I cannot see them at all. Not the best idea but I cannot see them anyway! The other thing I have tried versus moving the mirror angle is to put my daytime sunglasses back on! Just slide down in the seat a bit and Cruise! DJ

From 50 parts book. Appears just the seal is stuck. Maybe just a light heat to area of seal? #140,142,143,144 are seals. DJ

If your hardener of any brand/source lists an isocyanate on its label- use only in fresh air environments and air flow (still with a quality Paint mask) or use inside with a full paint suit suit and fresh (oil less) air mask/supply. Guess what it -has cyanide it it! Can be breathed and/or absorbed through the skin and cause Major health issues/death at the extreme! Best to start reading NOW. MSDS's are your friend!! DJ

Is your "wobble" above 35mph felt in the steer wheel shaking or the whole car sensation? When I redid my 50Ply. brakes I had a similar problem. Turned out to be a rear wheel running out. Traced to the rear hub was not on straight. Still very tight, but had nicks in the key /key way of the axle/ and the hub itself. Cleaned everything up reinstalled with some anti-seize and all was well again. Hope it's some easy and cheap for you also! DJ

There are many different Mopar 3rd.member complete assemblies that Could interchange as a drop in 3rd. member with a different ratio if IF your original was not too low geared to start with, Can make a difference. You need to find the ratio of what you have as mentioned before(location etc.) to be able to advise. If you Find out what you have now, I will look in and Hollander Interchange manual to tell you what will Work. If you now have the normal (for that year) ratio, too many possibilities. Many 39-56 Mopar rears May interchange, making finding other ratios avail. much easier to find in your area? Most cars ran 3.9-3.73 and some Chrysler's used 3.5. Let me know here if I can assist in this. DJ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-Plymouth-2-Door-Sedan-NOS-MoPar-Left-ROCKER-PANEL-1348395-/361320287388?hash=item54205e0c9c:g:~K0AAOSweW5VfFlA&vxp=mtr I bought several of these about 8 years ago as someone had bought an old Big stock of aftermarket replacement panels that were stamped out. Not done with just a sheet metal brake. All 2door and 4 dr. panel I Bought had the same angle front to back! NOT Flat. Were selling for about 1/2 price then, but EBAY Plymouth parts are averaging overall about that now from then. If nothing else maybe ask him to send a couple more pics more for you of different angles to see? DJ

Another way to check wheel/tire straightness is to jack up front of car with tire just clear of ground and take a wood block and place at side of the tire and slowly rotate tire/wheel moving the block very close to the side of the tire. Does it move in or out away from block? If so put a straightedge higher up on block to hold against the wheel bead area of the wheel rim to see if the tire is the problem area or the wheel. OK,? Then move block just in front of the tire and rotate tire and make a center line scribe with a pointer of some point and see if tire run true and then also watch from the side to see if the tire runs out of round. Really only takes a minute or two. Repeat one wheel/tire at a time, front repeat steps on the rear. Less than 20 minutes total when the test is completed. Just helps with this easy/quick test before moving on to other Good ideas already posted. Best, DJ O

Unfortunately the 49-50 Plymouths have the throttle linkage bolted ( from below) to the otherwise removal floor pan. It IS a real pain in the But_ ! to get at the bolts... The pivot ball from the throttle peddle still needs to be unhooked to disconnect the parts though to remove the pan. It will finally give you a good view of the Master Cyl. DJ

Check the pivot pins to make sure that they are pivoting on the inner(smaller) part of the hinge not the other way. Have worked on two 49-50 Plymouths and both had problems from years of lack of lube. Had to remove from one of them (also not so easy as you are finding!) and drill the pins out as they were broken and totally frozen in the the smaller part of the hinge and only were pivoting in the larger part and they had worn out the holes. These Do Not use any type of bushings so mine had to become oversized holes and pins. Sure hope someone lubed yours during its life. Good luck!! DJ

I would love to find one of those for sale at a Reasonable price! Nice NOS part. DJ

Could be one of my distant relatives. Large groups of Dutch settlers originally came to the US and altered their names somewhat with many variations. Most settled first in the upper N.Y. and tried farming, mostly apples. My grandfather's family became the Van Voris family. A another friends family also came and settled first in the same part of the country became the Van Voorhees. Many second generation from the area moved to friendlier climates? Mine came to Ca. on the box car express! Just made the pic more interesting. Thanks, DJ

Guess that explains the fire hydrant pit stops! Give E-85 a try in your drinks. More Bang for the buck. DJ