DJ194950

Such pins are available from McMaster Carr Are these Pins hardened or at least surface hardened? as the fuel pump arm rides on this pin and will wear down quickly if not. Had the same question on a pin JohnT over on the truck forum just had one turned on a lathe by a machinist friend for his pump on his truck that had started coming out.

Looking forward to it.(quote of casper) Finally some fun! Love it myself when all the work starts to look good that everyone can see! Most people o ly notice this part, but other old car lovers know what it took to get it to the great looks! I certainly do. DJ

Is this shipping time delay-Canada-USA because of making sure your not sending bomb fuses or is this business as usual? DJ

Looks like to replace a seat or two plus all valve guides! Not hard to do or big expense. Maybe some valves?

what did you use for the electric wiper motor change over? Plans for a floor covering?? Great looking 50! Thanks, DJ

I used Monroe air shocks on the rear of my 50 Ply. 4 dr.. I liked the sitting height but was still too bouncy in the rear with the old springs even after new gas shocks were installed. Rides better with just enough air to support the rear but low enough (50psi.) to make it ride great even at speed over RR tracks. Since your car is lowered at the 3" drop stock dimensions may not work right so I have attached a pdf from another car site that has the Monroe spec.book. For you- see pages 1 and 2 for attachment type and pages 31 and 32 for the air shock specs. avail.\ http://www.oldmopar.com/oldmopar/MountingLengthMonroe.pdf Find something with the right specs. and search on Amazon and Ebay for that part # with Monroe first. Got mine from Amazon about 2 years ago for 35-40 bucks-delivered. Good luck, DJ

Pics of my 50 4 dr. trunk handle/lock set up. If needed I will remove it tomorrow and look for #'s. Bought it NOS from Ebay several years ago. Remember it was built at the factory with parts which had several part #'s cast or tagged back in the day.

A deep hole dug and a bucket of dirt to cover deposits. What else is needed when you live way out in the country?! Want fancy?-- a vent to the hole the the fixture sits on that has a open/close valve. Not to close to your well though! Perfect! LOL!

Kind of reminds me of my 30 mile commute home in central ca. one nice afternoon day when out of nowhere one car in the fast lane of a divided freeway did a 360 about 1/4 mile ahead of me then another 180 until he was up against the oleander bushes in the medium dividing the 4 lane freeway and quickly jumped out as I passed in the slow lane and watched in my mirror as he ran to the trunk and opened it and began tho throw some packages in the bushes as fast as he could! Me- 12 years ago no cellphone! Had he been sampling some "product" on the way there?! Perhaps the same for the driver in your video? DJ

Do they look like these from McMaster-Carr? They had the counter sunk machine bolts on a different page. http://images2.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/large/90900a030p1-b01l.png?ver=1406105752 If not I missed the question/search somewhere. Oh well! LOL. DJ

Mc master washers? http://www.mcmaster.com/#star-washers/=11jz7q2

found these pics of the gauge panel showing the nuts and the rubber push in studs (on the top side) of my 50 Ply. 4 dr.. The rubber mounts were so hard that I had to use a punch and small hammer to drive the studs out.

Most Mopar this this age had full time "hot" to the bulbs and the switches just added to the ground wire to the light/lights. The switches were grounded by their mounting and a wire to the lamp to make them work. many other makes/brands/years did them the same.

My 50 4 dr. Ply. had stocks springs that sat at a level lower than stock original but it was from just being old and losing their strength. Rode ok ,but over bigger bumps the newer shocks could not control the bounce and rough ride. I found through internet search some air shocks for about $65 delivered that bolted right on. The hard part was routing the air lines into the trunk air filler valve! Added just enough air pressure to bare lift the rear height. Works great smoothed out the bumps and helped greatly with body roll in corners! Suppose it depends on just what your trying to accomplish. DJ

Been about 3-4 years ago now but I was trying to do what it appears your now attempting. No luck. Had watched ebay for 1-1/2 years while I worked on car. Found some parts but all had some problems. NOT complete. Just looked up in a Mopar parts book for 1950. They Did not sell pieces except for the lock cylinder same for all Mopars that year, they where Not made to be disassembled- parts break off the cast potmetal I guess? All or nothing only the lock was extra. complete less lock + part # 1347744. Lock # 1-332805--part # is same for all 50 Mopar except Town and Country. I end ed up bidding on several complete but kept getting out bid for them and these where used with no keys. Did I mention the 4 dr. Plymouth trunk handle was a 1 year only and 4 dr. only?? Finally a NOS complete with keys was available on Ebay and was out bid after bidding $230. Emailed a second chance as seller had 2 available. Hated to do it But I did. Hopefully your luck will be better, sorry for the news but I felt you would not mind? DJ

Have you talked to 48dodger about having it delivered to his shop.?? He's up on the Volare swap and Mopar engines/trans.

Been several years since I needed the exact same parts that no one had, ended up using grommets bought at Napa store . Tried to find just to right ID/OD fit. But if I remember correct I ended up with a larger and thicker grommet and cut them it down to where it fit both dimensions great. After several attempts I ended up with proper angled cuts to superglue them together. Some time spent and only a few bucks plus a little time worked out very well .

Car looks good at least in the rear, lots of sellable parts. Think I would be afraid of the fire survivor?? torch setup. I,m with Tim on this one-Fire in the hole(garage!)

Real car guys are into "gizmos" !!

Maybe something like this? From a 50 Mopar parts books. Shows to be on C-49 and C-50 Chryslers. Option? Book does not show model application.

One other possibility. If the Od shift in/out arm is not properly installed when the OD was worked on it could also be blocking out reverse engagement as the rod the arm attaches to has multiple jobs in addition the shifting the OD engagement. 1-switch on rear of trans to electrically block OD operation in reverse and it also blocks the mechanical reverse engagement by passing through to the main three speed box. My R-10 OD rebuild took several tries to properly assemble due to this type of details I missed but at least discovered while the trans was still on the work bench. Hope that it's something simple. For instructions on proper assembly of the arm/engagement go to: references at the top of main page then to manuals-downloads P.2 for B-W R-10 repairs to operation/maintenance. - Maintenance download has on P.22 the proper assembly of the arm/rod. Good Luck DJ

From what I have Read on plating pitted pot metal parts- They do grind out any corrosion in the the pit- copper plate the part- heat and fill pit with lead-sand level-copper plate again- buff- nickel plate- chrome plate-buff! Long and expensive process!! Hence the high cost! Why not Most high production shops do not do this or have the expertise, even if they wanted to. Usually best to let the plater do the work-start to finish- Again from what I have read. Best, DJ

How much taper is there between the top and bottom of the cylinders measurements? They made +.001 and +.002 oversize rings in the day. Perhaps some are still available?? DJ

Blow the snow off the sun room and catch some rays in your shorts Can't let the tan fade!!

My 49 Plymouth parts book shows a rope type rear main seal while the 50 MOPAR parts book show the type seal pictured by Branded? Maybe the Dodges made the seal type change earlier??