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Everything posted by Merle Coggins
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Max PSI is for Max load. Unless you are using your truck as it was used "back in the day" you could run with a lower pressure and improve the ride quality. Bring the pressure down until you see the tire start to squat a bit, then add 5 lbs.
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Rear Axle Identification on B-1-F
Merle Coggins replied to Mavman427's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
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headlight switch bezel thread size?
Merle Coggins replied to Los_Control's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I have to wonder what the acid did to the contacts inside the switch, and inside the circuit breaker. -
Contact the folks at Then and Now Automotive, (a.k.a. Antique Auto Parts Cellar) and get a fuel pump rebuild kit. Their kits are inexpensive, fairly easy to install, made for modern fuels, and their tech support is top notch. http://www.then-now-auto.com/antique-auto-parts/
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It's sort of complicated... The clutch and brake pedals are listed with bushing, and the bushing isn't listed separately, unless it's a Fluid Drive truck, Truck-O-Matic, or larger truck. Those have a different clutch pedal and linkage system and list the bushing separately, for some reason. And there are several different part numbers depending on model year and size class. Does DCM reference an OEM P/N? The first column designates series number (1-4), or a - indicates all series. The next columns are size class, B, C, D, etc.
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You could possibly try putting a little heat into the head around the base of the valve, but either way it’ll probably take a fair amount of torque to break it loose. Have you drained the coolant form the block and removed that hose first?
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'48 B1B - Rear crossmember to bedside bolts?
Merle Coggins replied to gtech636p's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
3/8-24 as I recall -
Interesting observation. I noticed this summer that my Westach is no longer accurate and I wondered if it was due to the different signal from the Pertronix. I contacted Westach about it and they stated that several of their customers run their tach’s with Pertronix. I was going to drop my points distributor back in and test it again for verification but I hadn’t got around to it yet.
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Similarity between ‘52 Concord and ‘53 Cranbrook?
Merle Coggins replied to leadheavy52's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Interesting... A ‘49 truck 4 speed would likely be the spur gear type without any synchros. It must have taken a lot of effort to shoehorn that into a car chassis, for what you’d get out of it. Especially since the car bell housing would likely have to have been modified to allow it to bolt up. -
Similarity between ‘52 Concord and ‘53 Cranbrook?
Merle Coggins replied to leadheavy52's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That looks like a truck transmission. I’d suspect that you’ll need to do some fabrication, even if you could find a replacement tunnel hump. -
Well, the light duty trucks have the chassis serial number stamped into the frame, on the left front side, between the front spring mount and the shock mount. I found mine where the red arrow is pointing. Note the shinier spot on the frame... Maybe the medium duty trucks have the stamping in a different spot???
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There should be more to that number on the frame. Try sanding lightly before and after those 4 digits and see if there is more. The chassis serial number should be there, and that is what is needed for identification.
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Brake pedal oscillating when pressed.
Merle Coggins replied to Fernando Mendes's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
A pulse in the brake pedal, when brakes are applied, is usually due to a warped brake disc or drum. If the drum is out of round the shoe will follow the concentric circle causing the pulse/oscillation feel. -
Clarktor - Flathead 6 with fluid coupling.
Merle Coggins replied to HeyCharger's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I don’t know what type of bell housing they used in that tug, but in the cars and trucks, with FD, you need to remove the trans from the bell housing first. Then you can remove the clutch from the FD, then the FD form the crank. There will be 8 nuts to remove on the block side of the crank flange. It’s probably best to pull the engine with the bell housing attached, then swap things over to the replacement engine before installation. If you are unable to turn the crankshaft then you won’t be able to get the FD unit off the crank without removal of the bell housing. And if this is the case you will probably need to drive the 2 locating dowel pins back into the bell housing, and out of the engine block. They are located just above the lower bell housing bolts at the back of the block. With the pins pushed back, and the engine out of the vehicle, you can lift the bell housing up and over the top of the flywheel/Fluid Drive unit. This would then provide some access to the upper nuts on the crank flange. -
yet another glass question
Merle Coggins replied to Los_Control's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Yes, the divider is attached to the glass and is the moving type, as mentioned above. -
I think some glass shops may use a urethane glass setting caulk instead of the tape, but I can’t confirm that.
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Rear Brake Cylinder Brake Line Fittings
Merle Coggins replied to Jocko_51_B3B's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
7/16 X 20 would be an SAE Boss thread, 1/4” ( - 4 ) size. So it would appear that you need an SAE - 4 male X 1/4” Inverted flare female fitting. Happy hunting. -
The "sweeper" channel is held in place with some clips. Pull the old one out and reuse the clips. The glass is set in place to the framework with glass setting tape. It's a rubber tape that wraps the edge of the glass and is pressed into the frame. Lots of soapy water helps get it set. I struggled with my vent window glass and finally gave it all to the glass company and had them do it.
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I'm curious to see how you mounted another master cylinder in tandem to the original one, seeing as how the steering column passes right in front of the stock M/C.
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Repairing pilothouse fenders
Merle Coggins replied to Los_Control's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Yup, that's a common rust spot on these trucks. Most I have seen, that have been "restored" won't have rivets in that spot anymore. When I did my truck I drilled out the rivets, repaired the rust spot on the fender, and added another plate in between like what was there originally, and welded it all together. I then drilled through the original rivet holes and put carriage bolts in there. After sanding the heads smooth of any markings it looks like the original rivets again. -
Must be so nice to be able to have 17 year old vehicles that aren't a rotting carcass or body cancer (rust).
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1957 D100 Transmission Gaskets/Seal
Merle Coggins replied to Noah's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Have you checked with Roberts Motor Parts, or Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts? At the top of this page you will find a "Links Directory". In there you can find several links to various vendors, including these 2. -
Look again Paul. I don't believe you gutted the existing M/C and ran through it on your truck. I believe you confusing your different projects. Tyler, if you use the search function of the forum this has been discussed a few times. I remember someone finding a M/C that fits with little modification. I just don't recall the application.
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I don't know how you are reading it. I thought it was pretty clever, and funny.
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Brass Manifold Nuts and Washers
Merle Coggins replied to squirebill's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I always knew you had a screw loose somewhere... ??- 5 replies
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- brass nuts
- brass washers
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(and 1 more)
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